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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance

ok swapping 4.88 for my 4.10 in my 10.5" 14b ff. Not sure what the pinion numbers is on the old pinion looks like 17. does that mean .017" shim. 2 numbers on new pinion but I think the number I want is 00. So either I use no shim ? or same size as old shim?
what say the tribe

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over last 2 Saturdays I got some things done.
I installed the front ORD extended steel braid brake hoses.
Installed DIY4x comp motor mounts with the brackets for the trans bell housing supports. The passenger side support bracket and rod fit great, driver side needed some modification. I also needed to redo the after market oil cooler lines, to make driver side clear. I remove the shims installed between frame and trans cross member, now that motor is where is supposed to be.
Finished replace power steering return lines.
Removed the old mechanical fuel pump.
Tomorrow I hope to get brakes bled and combo valve re-centered, maybe get the new rear gears a 10 mile break in run.
 
Wes Harden said:
over last 2 Saturdays I got some things done.
I installed the front ORD extended steel braid brake hoses.
Installed DIY4x comp motor mounts with the brackets for the trans bell housing supports. The passenger side support bracket and rod fit great, driver side needed some modification. I also needed to redo the after market oil cooler lines, to make driver side clear. I remove the shims installed between frame and trans cross member, now that motor is where is supposed to be.
Finished replace power steering return lines.
Removed the old mechanical fuel pump.
Tomorrow I hope to get brakes bled and combo valve re-centered, maybe get the new rear gears a 10 mile break in run.
Click to expand...
Guess I missed the post about the shims
What did you end up doing?
 
I put the cross member tight against frame. Motor, trans and tcase are all at factory level. Now I will check the and adjust the 2 piece drive shaft angles.
 
Got the brakes bled, think the proportioning valve is re-centered. Back on ground. waiting for some more fittings to arrive to finish oil cooler re-plumb. Then first drive with new 4.88's in rear, should wake her some.
 
10 miles road test mostly low speed start stop, 2, 1.5 mile highway runs.
Mild Accel, into 2nd gear at 12mph(GPS. Reg speedo is way off now) 3rd gear @22mph, 4th is 38 to 42 mph.
4th gear tachs 55 at 1800, and 70 is @2500.
Mild Accel in 4th up 1-2% grade doesn't drop back to 3rd like b4.
Brakes worked sweet.
I had to remove oil cooler adapter, and return to stock. I didn't have enough fitting to finish the plumbing.
Add to that I decided -6 an ( surplus stuff I had)to small for an engine oil cooler, so I ordered -10 an goodies.
Gonna tinker with some interior stuff let diff cool and maybe get another 10 miles today
 
well I have almost 300 miles on new rear gears. The 4.88 are going to work out well. The rpm range suits the truck well. 67 68 mph is easy cruise speed, @2550 rpm.
After KoH I will have 600 or 700 miles on gears, going to change the oil, fix the pinion seal leak :angry1:, bought crush sleeve eliminator kit and will install that at same time.
Started acquiring parts to re-gear the front Dana 44. The Eaton Detroit true track arrived, 3.92 up. I can get Dana SVL, 107$ or US Standard Gear 172$. Any preferences ?

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I am going to be installing some new gears soon in my 14-bolt too. I am going with 5.13 on my 14-bolt FF. On the pinion shim I am guessing you measured the old shim thickness, and started with that. Do you remember how many pound inches you had for pinion bearing pre-load? Do you have the old fashion crush washer in it now? I am thinking of going with the crush washer eliminator kit myself.

Did you have to add or subtract pinion shims to get a good gear pattern, or did the original pinion shim work out for you the first time? How many thousands of an inch backlash did you have? Did you get an install kit with new bearings? Did your 14-bolt have an open carrier, or a G80 Gov Loc?

I am getting rid of my G80 Gov Loc, and getting an open carrier from Yukon. They have a heavy duty open carrier that is more beefier than stock. I am going to get a Yukon Grizzly automatic locker to go witt the Yukon open carrier as well.
 
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Those Dana's are more work than a 14-bolt to re-gear. You will definitely need to use the old outer pinion bearing and inner bearing race as set up race and bearings to get pinion bearing pre-load and depth. Are you going to use a case spreader? most people that work with diffs for a living say they are not necessary, and can actually damage the housing if used incorrectly.

I was watching this one video on re-gearing a dana-60, and he had to start with 10-inch pounds of pinion bearing pre-load with the old set-up bearings, in order to get into the proper inch pound spec range (25 to 35 inch pound) with the new bearings installed.

When I re-gear my Dan-60 I am thinking of going with a full-house carrier Yukon Grizzly automatic locker for it.
 
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I had 25-28 in lbs of preload on new bearings. I started with the same size shim that was used with old gears I needed to to use a thinner shim, original .023 I tried .021 and ended up going with .019.
I kept the g80, but if i had realized how small the pinion gear diameter is with the thick ring gear, I might have tried to find a carrier with the correct split for normal thickness.
 
Wes Harden said:
I had 25-28 in lbs of preload on new bearings. I started with the same size shim that was used with old gears I needed to to use a thinner shim, original .023 I tried .021 and ended up going with .019.
I kept the g80, but if i had realized how small the pinion gear diameter is with the thick ring gear, I might have tried to find a carrier with the correct split for normal thickness.
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When it comes to gears above 4.10 the only company that makes standard cut gears above 4.10 is Spicer. All the aftermarket gears are thick cut so you did not have much choice, but to go with a thick cut gear. Those adjustable carrier sleeves and external pinion shims sure do make the 14-bolt easier to re-gear than the Dana diff. As long as you do not have tires over 35" the G80 is not too bad of a limited slip device because they where built much heavier for the 14-bolt that they where for 10 and 12 bolts.
 
yes the 14 bolt is sweet. I have done D44's before, I have made some set up bearings for the carrier. I do have access to a case spreader and will use it. I don't remember if I made them for the pinion, but I should be able to get very close, with old and new markings.
 
Wes Harden said:
yes the 14 bolt is sweet. I have done D44's before, I have made some set up bearings for the carrier. I do have access to a case spreader and will use it. I don't remember if I made them for the pinion, but I should be able to get very close, with old and new markings.
Click to expand...

Getting the pinion bearing and carrier pre-load on those Dana diffs is a bitch. It takes some patience and willingness to take everything apart several times in order to get it right. I have read that the case should not be spread more than .015 thousands, or it could warp the case...even though a case spreader will make it much easier to take the carrier in and out, in order to get the carrier pre-load correct.
 
600+ miles on new rear gears. Next weekend will change gear oil, got a deal on Amsoil Severe Gear at KoH. Pinion seal is dripping a bit, so new seal and crush sleeve eliminator.
Ordered some 22-547 springs today from one of my works vendors. Saved shipping $. Pick up Tuesday.
After I get the springs, and double check bushing size. I'll place my ORD order. Shackle flip 4", super shackle 4.5", with Kevlar. Steering brace and u bolts.
Should almost complete the rear suspension update.
Front bushings and shackles needs redo also. That and the front gear swap to match.
 
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Call ORD today, spoke with David and Jessie. Steering brace kit, 4" shackle flip, 4.5" super shackle kit, and u bolt kit. Good chunk of change. Be awhile before truck mad money account replenishes. Maybe have time end of March beginning April to get it all in.
 
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