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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
Yesterday my other bottle of r12 arrived, from Kommiefornia. Cold truck. I put the gauges on, 100ish psi on both sides 104° in garage. 4 days with freon in the system. I start the truck , slide the switch to Max A/C, no compressor engagement. Hmm, unplug the high side pressure switch, no power. Check the evaporator temperature control switch, it has power going in but not out. The sensing bulb is wrapped around the tube to the accumulator which is 104° the switch should be closed. So I bypass the switch compressor engages. Set the choke high speed cam on seconded step @ 1100 rpm, low side is 24psi high side 170ish, so I am low on freon. Open the bottle top the system off. End readings are 40 and 275psi at 111° ambient in the garage. 48° center vent. Condenser fan running with an electric house fan blowing through front of truck.
Before I did the A/C work I eliminated the radiator trans cooler, am only running external stacked plate cooler with 8" fan. Trans temp in pan while doing the a/c work got 160°.
Coolant temp went to just under 3/4 on gauge, which is @200°. Hell the top of the fenders were 135°, in the shade.
Rockauto has the evaporator temperature control switch for $16, get it and few other little items.
Road test. Up hill slow speed 25 mph A/C maxed front and rear. Truck cab was comfortable. The new style A6 compressor doesn't seem to work as well at low rpm, under 1100.
Engine temp is 5/8ths on gauge, trans is 180°. Up hill 35 mph, third gear torque converter locked, engine temp the same,5/8ths, trans up 185°. Stop and sit for minute, engine and trans stay at same temps as before, but a/c vent get a little warmer. Down hill easy driving, A/C get cold again engine temp come down to 1/2, even a little lower, trans down to 160°
After the 4th will be towing an empty trailer to Ca. Then my dune buggy to Big Bear for the Manx club event the weekend of 9-11th. Load that trailer up and back to Havasu sometime middle July.
Before I did the A/C work I eliminated the radiator trans cooler, am only running external stacked plate cooler with 8" fan. Trans temp in pan while doing the a/c work got 160°.
Coolant temp went to just under 3/4 on gauge, which is @200°. Hell the top of the fenders were 135°, in the shade.
Rockauto has the evaporator temperature control switch for $16, get it and few other little items.
Road test. Up hill slow speed 25 mph A/C maxed front and rear. Truck cab was comfortable. The new style A6 compressor doesn't seem to work as well at low rpm, under 1100.
Engine temp is 5/8ths on gauge, trans is 180°. Up hill 35 mph, third gear torque converter locked, engine temp the same,5/8ths, trans up 185°. Stop and sit for minute, engine and trans stay at same temps as before, but a/c vent get a little warmer. Down hill easy driving, A/C get cold again engine temp come down to 1/2, even a little lower, trans down to 160°
After the 4th will be towing an empty trailer to Ca. Then my dune buggy to Big Bear for the Manx club event the weekend of 9-11th. Load that trailer up and back to Havasu sometime middle July.
My new evaporator temperature control switch arrived today. I used a cup of ice water to set the cut in and cut out. This new style compressor(see above posts) is not impressing me. Seems to only get cold at @2k rpm and above. Maybe I'm missing something, gauges read 37 and 215, 1k rpm, 102° ambient. At those pressures I would expect nice cold temps out of the dash.
The old A6 got ice cold quickly. Even the reman with front seal leak got colder till gas leaked out.
I don't believe I over charged on oil. Is one thing that keeps coming back to mind. On road test, ambient 114°, engine tamp just over mid on gauge (190°) trans temp 185°, a/c temp lack luster. Truck wasn't uncomfortable but It took to long to get coldish.
I swapped out my full time slugs for locking hubs, also re-torqued spring u bolts, hanger bolts, sway bar bolts,
Early Wednesday morning heading back to Kommiefornia, to attend a Manx club event in Big Bear. Expecting @ 300 Manx type buggies this weekend. Come on up and check out the buggies. I'll be looking forward to mid 80's high temps in the mountains lol
The old A6 got ice cold quickly. Even the reman with front seal leak got colder till gas leaked out.
I don't believe I over charged on oil. Is one thing that keeps coming back to mind. On road test, ambient 114°, engine tamp just over mid on gauge (190°) trans temp 185°, a/c temp lack luster. Truck wasn't uncomfortable but It took to long to get coldish.
I swapped out my full time slugs for locking hubs, also re-torqued spring u bolts, hanger bolts, sway bar bolts,
Early Wednesday morning heading back to Kommiefornia, to attend a Manx club event in Big Bear. Expecting @ 300 Manx type buggies this weekend. Come on up and check out the buggies. I'll be looking forward to mid 80's high temps in the mountains lol
I've found it's hard to beat the performance of an A6 compressor on r12. That is when it's working right and no leaks. I know that doesn't help you in the current situation but the newer style compressor may not be able to keep up with the load that the A6 handled with ease.
Yeah I had high hopes for this Four seasons aluminum A6 replacement. It is externally the same size, as the original. So can anyone confirm, or refute the to much oil would cause poor performance at low rpm, but better at higher rpm 2k+ ?
The 7th I towed an enclosed single axle trailer from Havasu to Apple Valley ca. Truck ran great. Used the ac the whole way except for 2 of the bigger climbs, eng and trans temps stayed in the normal range. At 60+ mph the ac was very cold, ambient temp 89-91. Stopped in Victorville for gas, 7.29 mpg. Got some lunch, last 5 miles to my brother's the ac just wouldn't cut it. Ac got cool, but not cold. All low speed, stop and go.
Friday I hooked up to my single axle buggy trailer, put my dune buggy on board.
Take off down highway 18 towards big bear. The steepest section is 2700+ feet elevation gain in 7 miles.
Using 2nd gear for most of it eng temps stayed down around the middle. My trans shot up to 240, durning the 7 mile stretch. As soon as I crested the summit and had some level driving in the valley trans temp came right back down.
I am estimating the trailer and load at no more than 2200 lb. I was hoping the cooling system and oil cooling work/ changes, since the last time I towed up the same route, would fix the high trans temps.
Next attempt is the largest trans cooler I can get.
In the near future I will be towing heavier loads across I40 to lake Havasu.
Friday I hooked up to my single axle buggy trailer, put my dune buggy on board.
Take off down highway 18 towards big bear. The steepest section is 2700+ feet elevation gain in 7 miles.
Using 2nd gear for most of it eng temps stayed down around the middle. My trans shot up to 240, durning the 7 mile stretch. As soon as I crested the summit and had some level driving in the valley trans temp came right back down.
I am estimating the trailer and load at no more than 2200 lb. I was hoping the cooling system and oil cooling work/ changes, since the last time I towed up the same route, would fix the high trans temps.
Next attempt is the largest trans cooler I can get.
In the near future I will be towing heavier loads across I40 to lake Havasu.
I didn't go back to check what you did for the transmission cooler but does it make a difference if you have it hooked up backwards as far as the fluid flow?
Do you still have it going through the radiator?
I removed it from the radiator. I have a 10"x13" stacked plate cooler with a 8" fan. Powered with key on.
with just the external cooler, can't be backwards.
with just the external cooler, can't be backwards.
Yeah, backwards only applies if you still go through the radiator.
Well it's getting hot too much too quick, maybe it's an internal problem?
Looks like engine is fine now so look into trans
Maybe. It only happens underload on steep grade.
Towed under 180 in 100+ ambient basically level to shallow grade.
Towed under 180 in 100+ ambient basically level to shallow grade.
I didn't go back to see what trans we are talking about, but if it's not a 700/4l60 or 4L80e you could be getting the heat come on from the converter since a 350/400 won't have a lockup converter on them. I'm wondering out loud if the engine rpm at speed while climbing is coming close to the rated stall speed of the converter.
That was what I was thinking and I am almost positive he has a non lockup converter, can't remember if it's a th350 or th400
Wes' burb has a lockup torque converter but can't remember what type of trans it was. I remember reading somewhere that there was a th350-c that was a lockup type, but wasn't produced very long. 4 or 5 years I think, right before the 700r4 and the 4l60
Then maybe it's not working properly.
I know I had one and it gave me lots of trouble
Page 1 looks like he's swapped in a 700r4.
So it should have a lockup converter. The problem I found with the 700 I had in mine I could never positively tell the tcc was actually locked up. I never saw the tach drop a couple hundred rpm at cruise speed. Not could I feel it unlocked I tipped into the throttle lightly. The 4L60e in my '04 trailblazer was obvious when the tcc locked and unlocked. I could see it on the tach and feel it. But that one is computer controlled and the 700's aren't. So I recognize my comparison point might be flawed.
Even if the tcc isn't locking up, if the trans downshifts to 3rd due to load/grade the tcc point is moot anyways since normally they don't lock the tcc in third. Which could still have the rpm down near the stall speed depending on what's going on.
So it should have a lockup converter. The problem I found with the 700 I had in mine I could never positively tell the tcc was actually locked up. I never saw the tach drop a couple hundred rpm at cruise speed. Not could I feel it unlocked I tipped into the throttle lightly. The 4L60e in my '04 trailblazer was obvious when the tcc locked and unlocked. I could see it on the tach and feel it. But that one is computer controlled and the 700's aren't. So I recognize my comparison point might be flawed.
Even if the tcc isn't locking up, if the trans downshifts to 3rd due to load/grade the tcc point is moot anyways since normally they don't lock the tcc in third. Which could still have the rpm down near the stall speed depending on what's going on.
I do have a 700r4 with a lock torque converter. It will, and does, lock automatically in 4th. I can and do, when rpm matches the power band, lock in second or 3rd when manually selecting those 2 gears.
The converter was spec's to be 1600 rpm stall.
Towed 50 miles down from @7k elevation to 3k. 6% grade was where trans got hot. The way down never over 180, mostly 160.
111 ambient at 3k elevation.
The converter was spec's to be 1600 rpm stall.
Towed 50 miles down from @7k elevation to 3k. 6% grade was where trans got hot. The way down never over 180, mostly 160.
111 ambient at 3k elevation.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
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Quick question, are your cooler fittings coming in from the side, or the bottom? You can trap air if they come from the bottom. Not picking, just trying to help
Top off each side. The PO had it up side down I moved it and turned it the correct way year b4 last
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
- Posts
- 244
- Reaction score
- 166
Should be sideways for best performance
Sideways might work but I don't see how it would be better.
Oil flow top left to bottom, up, down, up, etc till exit out top right.
Oil flow top left to bottom, up, down, up, etc till exit out top right.
