CK5
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I had some time in the shop today, got the other shock installed. took a look at front tire clearance for front of wheel opening. Looks like defang for sure.20250719_182204.jpg

Wheel is turn slightly right there, at ride height.

Also started working on the Windstar fan control circuit, one fan is 2 speed and other is single. Need to add a trinary switch to ac, this will turn the fan on when the discharge pressures are over 240psi. Means I need to degas system, add a service port for switch in manifold hose. Dam I don't to loose that r12, and no one has r12 recovery equipment any more. Will probably put that off till later. Can run 1 or 2 fans off the clutch signal, with a manual switch to open ground at high speed.

At 3 relays, and 2 temp switches I can run both fans at 1 speed and the 2 speed fan on second relay. I have assumed the single speed fan is low, but I could be wrong. the third will provide ground when ac signal is supplied, over riding the temp switch. The 2 temp switches will be different temps 1st is 180° on 170° off, 2nd is 200° on and 185° off.
can not decide on which fan/s or speed to use for AC, I am thinking the larger 13.3" 2275 cfm at @2000rpm, I haven't found a hi speed rpm spec yet. Maybe I should run both for 4400 cfm, since low mph and ac is the only time I come close to getting hot . Will drop my diagram here when I finish it. Any know a nice free automotive electrical drafting program ?
 
Need to add a trinary switch to ac, this will turn the fan on when the discharge pressures are over 240psi. Means I need to degas system, add a service port for switch in manifold hose. Dam I don't to loose that r12, and no one has r12 recovery equipment any more. Will probably put that off till later. Can run 1 or 2 fans off the clutch signal, with a manual switch to open ground at high speed.
Do you have a high pressure cut-off switch that's already behind a schrader? You could make a tee that connects there to 2 switches. Or you could potentially make a tee off the high-side service port.
 
I do have a switch on high side, one issue its after the condenser, should be between compressor and condenser where highest pressures are seen. I need to check the thread size, might not work for trinary switchs available today.

If all were correct I could use a trinary in place of a high pressure cut out.
 
I do have a switch on high side, one issue its after the condenser, should be between compressor and condenser where highest pressures are seen. I need to check the thread size, might not work for trinary switchs available today.

If all were correct I could use a trinary in place of a high pressure cut out.
I took the easy way and triggered the fans relay from the clutch signal.
All the fans full throttle as soon as the clutch kicks on. Gives the Megasquirt a challenge to catch the idle and maintain, but it does it and boy howdy my a/c is cold.
 
Yeah it is currently wired like that for the small 10" pusher fan. Will probably be that way till something fails requiring opening the system, then I'll add the trinary
 
I took the easy way and triggered the fans relay from the clutch signal.
All the fans full throttle as soon as the clutch kicks on. Gives the Megasquirt a challenge to catch the idle and maintain, but it does it and boy howdy my a/c is cold.
I did the same, but I'm not even relying on the Megasquirt, I just wired an air valve around the throttle, wired in parallel to the clutch. I always wanted to do something cooler, but never circled back to it. Especially, I'd like to not have 1 trillion CFM of Windstar fans while I'm going 60MPH.
 
I keep eye balling the front of the front fenders, inner and outer, there is no way I am not rubbing inside. Maybe I should look for some 35's. Might even move the axle back 1/2", or back to stock and shorten front driveshaft.
 
I keep eye balling the front of the front fenders, inner and outer, there is no way I am not rubbing inside. Maybe I should look for some 35's. Might even move the axle back 1/2", or back to stock and shorten front driveshaft.
Don’t forget the tire will move rearward as it compresses. Maybe youll get lucky
 
I found a drive shaft 1" shorter for less than 200, so I am putting the front axle back to stock. Even in stock there will be some rubbing. Then I order new ORD perches for rear, 1 to dial in my pinion angle w/o shims, and If I like I can center the tire in the wheel opening. Rear shaft might make it 1" longer as is, P brake cables should have enough adjustment. Diff cover should miss tank and skid.
 
Yeah, I moved an inch forward so I can keep the firewall. Remember that 70's fenders have smaller wheel openings than 80's. Something like an inch front and back.
 
I was thinking that was the case but couldn't remember, I've only had 83 and up trucks. The amount of cutting between axle in stock, and axle an inch or an inch and a half forward was significant tho.
 
hmm, now I going to have to rethink, I really don't want to cut up this truck much, nor lift it more. Maybe 35s are the correct way to go for my wants.
 
Yeah, I moved an inch forward so I can keep the firewall. Remember that 70's fenders have smaller wheel openings than 80's. Something like an inch front and back.
I never realized that - I guess we always jack’d them all up higher than needed ( Nutt’n but mud , swamps-n-sand down this way ) so never took notice between dimensions from ‘80 on down or ‘81 on up squares.
Good to know !
 
Tire clearance pictures.

Right rear front20250724_133510.jpg
20250724_133451.jpgRight rear rear
20250724_133502.jpg
Left front max right turn.
20250724_123000.jpg
Front right right turn max
20250724_123044.jpg
Front left not quit max right.
20250724_122953.jpg
 
Not getting much done. Keep waffling on which way to go.
Am leaning toward 35s more and more. Still with a minor defang.

Two pic looking up at core support even droop
20250724_135059.jpg20250724_135029.jpg
 

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