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Why EFI owners don't Program their own PROM's?

You should do one of them for the spark table too! :waytogo:

y5mgisi you should start with that bin I sent you. It is awesome in my 1990 Suburban.
 
Would the fact that mine is a 4x4 with th400 make a difference? Also, does yours have an over sized cam in it? I think thats mostly what i would like to see. Somebody that has my idle characteristics due to a big cam and the adjustments they made to overcome that, as well as what they changed throughout the rest of the rpm/load range.
 
No it's 700r4 2wd....

Did you start a thread on your recording data,tune yet? Tuning a cam is time consuming. I will give you some comparisons of VE table from stock to a cammed motor. But all I have is Big Block stuff. I don't have a big cam SB tune.

First thing set your distributor to 5 degrees advance, change in chip. Clear codes and start motor, watch data for idle and it'll be rich, choose 400 rpm to 1200 RPM and 20 to 40 MAP. Use the offset funtion of TP and drop five at a time, watch data, still to rich drop five more, may have to add some timing in the timing table for the same RPM and MAP. Some guys try to get this right by dropping BPW but after you get idle you usually lean out WOT. Get an idle then work part throttle, then full throttle, then smooth. OK fuel is close now add timing till you find knocks, back off timing. Dave has a great SB timing table to start.

If you are having to much timing to make idle and starter kicks or engine knocks take out all spark at 75 to 100 MAP and 400 to 600 RPM. Make them all 0s and the truck will fire right up, you'll never hit those cells driving.

What I did with this last Big Block Mopar cammed with a BB Chevy TBI system was I start with a stock BB file, cleaned and flow matched injectors, 17 PSI (what calculaters said I would need) and a fuel pressure gauge I can see on hood. If it drops at all at WOT well fix it. Changed from TBI to TPI pump. Fix all mechanicals like bad connections at pump when I changed it, fixed three vacuum leaks, fixed grounds, fixed ignition on power to relayed supply as he lost spark when cranking, fixed a spark plug wire burnt and sparking on header, still had weird things happening and found batt termanals snugish??? :dunno: That fixed my glitches.

I still have a couple hours smoothing tables and working on cold start with no throttle so I am at his house at sun up every morning. One or two more mornings and I'll have that done too. I'll have 25 hours into this tune, diagnostics and repairs. Guy is way happy since no one else has been able to make it run since he built it a 2 years ago... now it screams from a stop through first and second, that's 80 MPH and we are out of road. I can usually tune from there up to 120ish or 6000 RPM without driving. Then the only way to improve on that is with a Wide Band on a Dyno.
 
More or less. I have a thread that i just started in the injection section and also the thinking of doing the unthinkable thread, and the got my aldl cable, now what thread. I think in my injection section thread i have my adjusted VE table and the main spark table that i got from davew. I also have a video of my truck running while looking at the winaldl logg screen. I hope to be as good at tuning as you by the time this is all done! Got a buddy with a 91 suburban 5.7/4l80e4x4 that i would like to tune for him.
 
y5mgisi said:
Would the fact that mine is a 4x4 with th400 make a difference? Also, does yours have an over sized cam in it? I think thats mostly what i would like to see. Somebody that has my idle characteristics due to a big cam and the adjustments they made to overcome that, as well as what they changed throughout the rest of the rpm/load range.
Click to expand...

One option to get a "Big Cam Motor" to idle is upgrade to the '427 PCM. Having separate spark and ve tables for idle make a tuners dream come true.:D

Another option for tuning a "Big Cam Motor" to combine the VE1 and VE2 tables. Add the values from VE2 to VE1, then ZERO all the values in VE2.

dave w
 
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dave w said:
One option to get a "Big Cam Motor" to idle is upgrade to the '427 PCM. Having separate spark and ve tables for idle make a tuners dream come true.:D

Another option for tuning a "Big Cam Motor" to combine the VE1 and VE2 tables. Add the values from VE2 to VE1, then ZERO all the values in VE2.

dave w
Click to expand...
Good tips Dave! :waytogo:

I can't wait to get my first, built from scratch 427 from a JY pull on my sons new rebuilt cammed 345 IH engine in his rock crawlers tow rig! :popcorn:
 
Here is a pretty neat article on how to not have to replace the chip socket on the ecm. All you have to do is modify the EEPROM chip. But i suppose with a setup like this you better be pretty confident in your tune! Wouldnt want to pull the ship back out to try and re-tune. So maybe it would work out ok if you had a buddy that just wanted a "performance tune" it would be an easy way to make it happen.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80053
 
y5mgisi said:
Here is a pretty neat article on how to not have to replace the chip socket on the ecm. All you have to do is modify the EEPROM chip. But i suppose with a setup like this you better be pretty confident in your tune! Wouldnt want to pull the ship back out to try and re-tune. So maybe it would work out ok if you had a buddy that just wanted a "performance tune" it would be an easy way to make it happen.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80053
Click to expand...
That is probably the cheapest way to get a flash chip and not have to UV erase chips. Popping it out of the black holder to erase and reprogram is the only problem but not hard when you get the hang of it. I have been told by electronics expert that soldering to chip legs will damage chip materials every time. totally against electronics rules and regulations he said with a laugh. He had a dumb stare on his face when I told him lots of guys are doing this and it works fine?

I started that forum with Bill about 10-12 years ago on my local clubs website, then Bill took it all to BinderPlanet and now is a vendor selling his work. Most of which is almost exact duplacate of Custom EFIS handbook. He has a huge amount of time and effort into these and helps a huge amount of people, I condsider him an expert, good guy and have a lot of respect for him doing all this while active navy, just retired. But his mechanical abilities and confedence are sometimes through the roof! He can drill injector ports in a steel intake manifold and match to fuel rail with a hand drill! No leaks! Machinist I talked to about this says it's impossible to get 16 holes lined up to the world by hand... and not leak GAS at 40 PSI!!! :dunno:

All that aside the FAQ there is probably the best place on internet to start a TBI conversion to carb motor. Everthing there works the same for a chevyfordbuicktoyota type car... you'll also find the thread where I made the first hybrid distributor. GM top machined to whatever motor bottom. I have done these for just about any car made.
 
y5mgisi said:
Hey dave, When choosing the amur0055.bin, what are all the other bins used for?
Click to expand...

The other bins are for different, make, model, and year vehicles. The other bins are for different gear ratios, transmissions, and emissions. It's not easy to figure out what the other .bin's are actually for.:confused:

dave w
 
If you really need to know I have a book that lists them. But without year, I have to look through pages of bins to find amur. Do you know what year?

ASDU is a very common bin used for conversions. It's also what came in my 1990 Suburban 2wd 700r4
 
Well i suppose that would do the trick then. I suppose the only thing you would really have to watch out for is a manual/auto truck and an esc/non esc truck.
 
If you are going to throw your own bin in anyway, the code (ASDU, etc.) doesn't matter at all - except for the calpak, limp home module. I have a 7747 from a 6 cylinder application that I'm trying to decide whether I want to setup for backup. I don't really understand how the limp home thing works, but I've been told it would be useless for me. What are the odds of needing it. :rolleyes:
 
Mastiff said:
If you are going to throw your own bin in anyway, the code (ASDU, etc.) doesn't matter at all - except for the calpak, limp home module. I have a 7747 from a 6 cylinder application that I'm trying to decide whether I want to setup for backup. I don't really understand how the limp home thing works, but I've been told it would be useless for me. What are the odds of needing it. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Limp home is another chip in the ECM that will run on a set of paremeters for an engine if there is catastrophic failure of EFI system. It's good to have one that matches your engine.
 
What is the difference in a v4 .ads and v5 .adx ?? I see that v5 will convert an ads to an adx. Does this work correctly?
 
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