When moving spring hangers and axle forward, you generally need to move the shackle hanger forward in order to maintain proper shackle angle.
CK5
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Why to convert to coil over
- Thread starter Chevk587
- Start date
Agree, if you reuse the leafs. If you get a new main leaf or just a new pack, the center pin hole can be changed. I went 52s up front. Front mount is on B52 and I have a slightly longer rear shackle. Center pin is drilled for 2" forward.
Hey, I thought about this a lot before I pushed my rear axle back some. I don't know this or that because I've only had one rig, but I thought moving the rear axle back would help more than moving the front axle forward.
hold on, hold on, don't get your panties in a bunch
The HiJack starts now (since the OP already bought an ORD setup)
I understand approach angle, which I'll agree has helped my truck after moving the axle just 2" forward. But I was thinking about weight distribution when I decided to move my rear....rearward.
I can't feel the difference on road, which the truck still sees a lot of highway use. That's great, mods that help off-road manners without sacrificing any on-road manners.
Anyway.....
Moving the rear axle puts more weight over the front axle. I figured that would help with climbing, especially with a short wheelbase truck. My thoughts were, now hear me out, 4" rearward makes more sense than 4" forward.
I don't think I need more weight over the rear axle. I've had a tire carrier off the bumper and tools boxes behind the axle. Once I moved that stuff forward in the bed, I noticed better on-road and off-road manners.
If you can only move one axle, which one would it be? (moving the front to keep the tire out of the sheet metal doesn't count, though it's a good idea to)
My thought is that we are generally talking about trucks that are front weight biased to begin with. That is an ASSumption of course. And to have a good all around truck we want to have our CG in between the axles somewhere. Of course if we just had to climb, then things may be different, or just had to descend or whatever. But anything we can do to get that cg closer to the middle of the truck and as low as possible, or slightly front biased is a good move. Of course this is just my theory and I am by no means as experienced as alot of others out there.
Another thing we have going on is that it is harder to get the front axle forward than the rear axle rearward. So first take all of the front you can. We usually hang winches in front of the front axle, and we have the engine and transmission, the core support and radiator, batteries, and accessory drive all right there. So the more we push the front the more we can start to get that mass behind the front axle. I believe this is a benefit on climbs, as well as descents.
I.E. picture a cab-over descending a waterfall. It would rotate right around the lip as most of the mass would be at the lip rotating around the lip point flipping the chassis ass over potatoes. Now picture that same cab-over trying to climb that same waterfall. Once the front axle gets onto the lip the rear will totally unload as most of the mass is up on the second level.
Now lets talk about CG of all of that when it is happening. The descending scenario is easy to picture as its a clusterfuck and the moment of the CG is greater than the moment of the cg of just the chassis, flipping you over with extreme prejudice. When climbing it gets even worse; the CG point has to overcome a larger vertical distance to get the front axle up onto the lip. That is a hard force to overcome in this extreme scenario. The more balanced between the axles our CG is, the lower it will be during climbs and descent and the easier it will be to make the truck work through it. If you have the ability to pick a CG point in your mind and envision a vehicle with that point going over obstacles you could translate that into a plot. Keep in mind you cannot cheat the total Z axis distance the CG must travel.
Now for the other mental exercise, reverse the cab-over and go through the obstacles. I like to do this with Boss Hog driving, mentally speaking.
I have started drinking so chances are someone else can come and critique my explanation or understanding. And as always, there are truly a hundred other variables at play here, and stability while degrading the ideal circumstances can trump things.
Another thing we have going on is that it is harder to get the front axle forward than the rear axle rearward. So first take all of the front you can. We usually hang winches in front of the front axle, and we have the engine and transmission, the core support and radiator, batteries, and accessory drive all right there. So the more we push the front the more we can start to get that mass behind the front axle. I believe this is a benefit on climbs, as well as descents.
I.E. picture a cab-over descending a waterfall. It would rotate right around the lip as most of the mass would be at the lip rotating around the lip point flipping the chassis ass over potatoes. Now picture that same cab-over trying to climb that same waterfall. Once the front axle gets onto the lip the rear will totally unload as most of the mass is up on the second level.
Now lets talk about CG of all of that when it is happening. The descending scenario is easy to picture as its a clusterfuck and the moment of the CG is greater than the moment of the cg of just the chassis, flipping you over with extreme prejudice. When climbing it gets even worse; the CG point has to overcome a larger vertical distance to get the front axle up onto the lip. That is a hard force to overcome in this extreme scenario. The more balanced between the axles our CG is, the lower it will be during climbs and descent and the easier it will be to make the truck work through it. If you have the ability to pick a CG point in your mind and envision a vehicle with that point going over obstacles you could translate that into a plot. Keep in mind you cannot cheat the total Z axis distance the CG must travel.
Now for the other mental exercise, reverse the cab-over and go through the obstacles. I like to do this with Boss Hog driving, mentally speaking.
I have started drinking so chances are someone else can come and critique my explanation or understanding. And as always, there are truly a hundred other variables at play here, and stability while degrading the ideal circumstances can trump things.
Can you post the link to what you bought?
If you want to keep the stock fuel tank you only get about 4" back from stock. Like @Tnsejed said, the real weight and balance gains are in pushing the front forward but you're not there now. I'd keep the rear push mild so that when you do the front you can push it a bunch and keep the wheelbase around 115-ish. Actually that is exactly what I did.
How much do you estimate you moved the front forward?
Did you have to move the steering box?
why are the coilovers so far back on this compared to all the others? Clearance needed on the specific setup?
Multiple reasons. More travel at the axle out of a shorter shock. So more options for spring rates and valving. Less stuff in the way of steering components and trusses. Cool factor.
We also built that so a bypass would fit in front of the coilover, also made mounting the shocks lower in the engine bay a lot easier.
Why didn't you finish it?
Thanks... but holy f is that expensive. That cost more than my truck did. Hahahah
That is probably the most obvious statement that can be made about all of our trucks. And I built mine before these kits existed.
Everything I’ve put on my truck cost more than original purchase lol.
And on parts /time ratio this is the way to go imo.
My point being that its not cheap. Ive already put in more than what I paid for my truck. Also I honestly did not expect it to be that high...oh well
I see you found the big kid shocks
MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
I believe jake jumped it a few times and cracked the rear of the frame. I think it's getting a new frame as well as a whole new suspension front and rear.
@sreidmx
I see you found the big kid shocks
My pockets aint that deep, brother. Ill admit a bit jealous I cant afford it...
Meh, factory springs and Bilsteins seem to be ok
I can’t run full tilt through the desert, but works well offroad. Works really well on the street
