CK5
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Working on a 71 Jimmy....

Ive thought about that same thing, and it hasn't been flexed out yet to know what it will do.

I think i'm going to add an extra tube onto the door that also holds against the same pressure plate up near the rail that the stock doors do. It least that will keep the pressure off the latch itself.

Im hoping that when I get a stiff cage installed, and add a firewall kicker as well...in conjunction with new body mounts and no rust - that things stay in line fairly well. I'm also going to add/weld in - at least the bottom part of a door skin to the opening to keep things from rolling out and that should also brace the opening dimensions.

Guess time will tell. Im sure there is a way.....
 
Picked up my D-lines yesterday. Got some nice heavy wall tube and 1350's all the way around. Milled the np205 Front output to change over from the GM 3V type stocker. The D60 front and np205 Rear changed from 1310. The 14bff had a 1350 on it already...

The cage has been the side project inbetween other things. BroncoBob sent me eight 4x4 x 1/4" plates to use for the feet pads, so just getting the 32 holes drilled in that thick stuff was a job. I am making my own underbody backing plates for everything with the same bolt pattern but about 1/2" different around the edges so it doesnt try and scissor through the sheet metal as much.

Bob made all the hoops about 3" taller than stock for me so I could set it the way I want...which means I get to do some tube cutting. I decided to rake it about 2" overall from back to front, which is just noticable - Dont want nothing looky saggy out back :-) Gives the back seats more headroom as well

When you start this job, a handfull of c-clamps, a couple levels, and especially a Laser is the way to roll im convinced. Marked everything with a sharpie via laser line and then tacked the tube on the marks and checked angles. So far so good!

Will have a bunch done after this weekend to post up....

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Just about finished the cage this weekend. Couple more backing plates to build and some gussets to add - but looks like this after primer/bedliner and a couple Kicker Wake-tower speakers for good measure. I really like the way it turned out.

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In-between paint coats drying got the 1350's and D-lines in. Moved the side support for the 205 down frame to the right spot, made a pair of shifters, and added the gear oil. Few more details but 99% wrapped up with the doubler.

You know how you are always hunting a place to set or find your beer when wrenching? Chevron has magnet koozies! Actually work well and wont budge or tip - 4 strong magnets:saweet:

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Just started on the wiring - this part will take a few beers I bet.

Out with the old - in with the new - Autowire Painless style

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Wow - the wake tower speakers are cool! I don't see any wiring - did you hide it or is there some black magic at work there?

I'm assuming your roll cage is too tall to put top back on?

Looks very good!
 
Wow - the wake tower speakers are cool! I don't see any wiring - did you hide it or is there some black magic at work there?

Your not supposed to see wiring right? I drilled a little hole in the tube with a rubber grommet and ran the wire down through the tube and out under the truck. Going to tuck it in with the new rear wiring/loom and run it up to the firewall. ;)

I'm assuming your roll cage is too tall to put top back on?

I think its too tall in back - but I don't have a hard top to try it with. Not planning to ever run one though. Someday i will have a soft-top hopefully - with mods to fit

Yea, I'm curious how that fuse block wiring goes. Mine is a mess with too many accessories.

I bolted in the fuseblock and under-hood panels last night. Kit comes with a template that you use to trace and expand the stock hole through the firewall about a half inch on the south and west ends. I noticed right away that there is a nice accessory pigtail included on the block that gives you an extra 4 battery con's / 2 ignition con's / 1 Acces connection. Also the block has 3-4 more empty locations just to add accessories without having to splice in or piggyback off something else. Nice because I need to wire in radios/amps/cb/flood lights/winch etc etc.

Cage looks great - have fun with the wiring!

what a cool build, how did i miss this one?

Thanks! :waytogo: Appreciate all the responses and feedback
 
Is that the 510089 wiring kit? The one I ordered says it comes with the light switch and a few other goodies like under dash lights.

Post up any problems you run into.
 
Fast forward almost exactly 3 years later....:eek1:

Well crap I had let the subscription expire on me, had some life changes thrown in etc, moved - but I did actually finish this build. :thumb:

Well sort-of, its never really ever finished is it!?

Here is some old shots of the fuse box and wiring being installed. Everything has been wokring like a dream for 3 years.

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Got the 1-ton brake booster installed, new 144 amp alt, 10.5mm Wires/Hei and speaker boxs u-bolted to the cage.

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Interior back in...

Added Five 30 amp led toggles to the dash above the radio to run the "extras". Red when off, green when on. Wired cb into a tuffy center locking console.

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A pair of Polk Marine Momo 12" subs going in the back.
Amp Wired and sealed in toolbox
Angled the rear bumber and skinned it out to match the front warn bumper

Hard thinking back to everything now -

Here is the SKY Crossover and WTO Hydro..

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Thought It would be nice to know what my vitals are running, only thing working on my stock gauges were the Speedo which was off a bunch with the tires, and my fuel....

Decided to go with the Dolphin Gauges - All electric with Programmable speedo, tach, oil, fuel, volts, water and all the senders.

Works like a dream! And My speedo is correct and I can make it correct again anytime I change tire size or gears in the future - Shaweet. Simple plug and play on the Tach with my HEI and Autowire's kit. Couldnt be easier to install.....well the fuel float contraption and oil pressure sender was kinda a Beotch but well worth the trouble.

More finish work on the wiring was adding two more Cig plugs for the rear occupants and I rewired the Door switches to green toggles (rather than door pin ground switch) so everyone gets there own switch and LED bulbs. Plus can turn them all on with the headlight switch.

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