I'm going to sell it, w/ the weld on kit too. You interested?
None of it is much use to me, and I have a line on the front drive stuff I need for the 8.1- alternator/steering pump bracket etc, and need cash to buy it.
CK5
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Zeus
- Thread starter Zeus33rd
- Start date
I'm going to sell it, w/ the weld on kit too. You interested?
None of it is much use to me, and I have a line on the front drive stuff I need for the 8.1- alternator/steering pump bracket etc, and need cash to buy it.
I'd be interested. In the brace, not the weld on bit.
Martin
Martin
Joe some while ago I drilled out the holes in the steering box used a Helicoil to thread em.
Then ran the bolt in backwards to the normal way. I used thick wall tube and threaded that too. So you had to thread the bolt all the way through everything. Then used nuts on the outside.
Just an idea. I know you got plenty of em just thought I would share what I've done
Then ran the bolt in backwards to the normal way. I used thick wall tube and threaded that too. So you had to thread the bolt all the way through everything. Then used nuts on the outside.
Just an idea. I know you got plenty of em just thought I would share what I've done
I was thinking about getting an old 6pt, 5/8" deep impact socket and cutting it half, so it's just the hex part, then set that piece on top of the bolt head, with a tab welded to it, with the other end of the tab somehow bolted to the frame. That would insure the bolts don't loosen. That would be inside the frame rails.
Then weld some material around the mouting ears, on the outside of the frame, to lock it into place. So that it has a "socket" so to speak, on the outside of the frame rails, that you set the box into, then install/tighten bolts.
Then weld some material around the mouting ears, on the outside of the frame, to lock it into place. So that it has a "socket" so to speak, on the outside of the frame rails, that you set the box into, then install/tighten bolts.
Little overkill, but not a bad idea. They make locking tabs for bolts and nuts like you describe, not sure where you get them though. I'll check around.
Heck, you're military, consider safety wire bolts. I know you have seen those. They don't loosen.
Also, you might consider taking your torch and heating the welds along that gusset you made.
Don't have to get it too hot, just barely red, but let it stay hot long enough for the heat to spread down the frame a little way.
I'm thinking about a stress riser in the frame from the rapid heating and cooling of the weld causing a thin zone of different hardness from the rest of the frame.
By letting the heat spread slightly, the zone will widen and will not have a thin stress zone.
Heck, you're military, consider safety wire bolts. I know you have seen those. They don't loosen.
Also, you might consider taking your torch and heating the welds along that gusset you made.
Don't have to get it too hot, just barely red, but let it stay hot long enough for the heat to spread down the frame a little way.
I'm thinking about a stress riser in the frame from the rapid heating and cooling of the weld causing a thin zone of different hardness from the rest of the frame.
By letting the heat spread slightly, the zone will widen and will not have a thin stress zone.
I'm fairly well versed in heat zones and and all that, what sort of things to worry about and what not. Way back in my late teens/eary 20's, I had a couple years straight of dedicated welding and metallurgy classes. An AWS certification or two. If this was an Ultra4 car, and I was working with 4130 steel etc, then all of those heat affected zones and stress risers and all of that would be a concern, and you'd have a valid point. But this stuff is more like welding tractors and bull dozers. It is mild steel and assuming your material is clean, your equipment doesn't suck ass, and you can weld in a straight line, those concerns are unfounded and un-needed extra work when dealing with a 25 year old truck.
I was co-builder on this car awhile back. It's ALL 4130 cromo tube, 90% tig welded. You really do have to think about the heat control when working with that stuff.
As far as the bolts go...I can do the socket thing for free. The rest of what you mentioned requires me buying something. I have no extra for stuff like that, specially when I can make something better, free.
I was co-builder on this car awhile back. It's ALL 4130 cromo tube, 90% tig welded. You really do have to think about the heat control when working with that stuff.
As far as the bolts go...I can do the socket thing for free. The rest of what you mentioned requires me buying something. I have no extra for stuff like that, specially when I can make something better, free.
Ah, its nice to deal with someone who knows what I'm talking about. I have gotten into arguments with people who insist that stress risers from arc welds don't exist.
One of those guys and I were standing next to a piece of steel that had 8 welds in it one next to the other, it having broken next to the previous weld 7 times over a year or so.
He assured me that I was full of it, and stress risers were a myth. When I asked about the 8 welds, all of which he had done, he told me that heat stress had nothing to do with it, and that sometimes steel just broke next to a weld.
The guy who owned the steel asked me if I could stop it from cracking again because he was getting tired of paying this guy to weld it.
I said sure, I let the original guy weld it, he was actually a darn good welder, then grabbed a torch and went to work.
It never cracked again.
Since you understand heats, I'm not concerned. But don't sell those old frames short. Not sure how much carbon they had, but I have seen older frames cracked next to welds before.
You heat and quench them, they might get harder than you would expect.
I suspect that with the long runs, there was plenty of time for the heat to spread even it it wanted to harden.
Usually when I see a frame crack next to a weld, its when a fairly small but hot weld was done like welding a right angle brace on.
The area of the weld got really hot really fast, but then the welding stopped, and the mass of the frame quenched the heat quickly.
Few months later, you start seeing stress cracks around the weld.
BTW, I forgot to say, it looks nice. Just try to keep it out of the tank traps this time..........
One of those guys and I were standing next to a piece of steel that had 8 welds in it one next to the other, it having broken next to the previous weld 7 times over a year or so.
He assured me that I was full of it, and stress risers were a myth. When I asked about the 8 welds, all of which he had done, he told me that heat stress had nothing to do with it, and that sometimes steel just broke next to a weld.
The guy who owned the steel asked me if I could stop it from cracking again because he was getting tired of paying this guy to weld it.
I said sure, I let the original guy weld it, he was actually a darn good welder, then grabbed a torch and went to work.
It never cracked again.
Since you understand heats, I'm not concerned. But don't sell those old frames short. Not sure how much carbon they had, but I have seen older frames cracked next to welds before.
You heat and quench them, they might get harder than you would expect.
I suspect that with the long runs, there was plenty of time for the heat to spread even it it wanted to harden.
Usually when I see a frame crack next to a weld, its when a fairly small but hot weld was done like welding a right angle brace on.
The area of the weld got really hot really fast, but then the welding stopped, and the mass of the frame quenched the heat quickly.
Few months later, you start seeing stress cracks around the weld.
BTW, I forgot to say, it looks nice. Just try to keep it out of the tank traps this time..........
I tacked everything together and welded most of it all in one shot, without stopping for more than a few minutes. The entire front of the truck was so hot, I could feel it just standing there next to it. And tomorrow, I'm gonna go out there and get the entire thing just as hot as today, while building engine mounts, engine cross-member and a bit more frame boxing, back to the rear spring shackle hanger. Secondary benefit to all the heat...It acts like a turbo powered de-greaser.
I love it!
Joe.....your selfie reminds me of Techno Viking!
Your dancing is as good as your welding.
-G
Joe.....your selfie reminds me of Techno Viking!
Your dancing is as good as your welding.
-G
That frame looks it will feel a night a day difference vs stock in the steering. Nice work.
Just got back from Ruff Stuff, picked up a couple more bushed sleeves for a transmission cross-member. The Ruff Stuff shop is impressive. Very much down to the business of making cool parts, on point and very professional. No extra fluff or bull****. 4 people on the phones, nice office area, everyone wearing ruff stuff swag and a window to a very clean and organized looking shipping and receiving area. I could hear plasma cutters, grinders and other shop sounds as well. Exactly how a shop like that should be run. Parking lot full of welding rigs and what I assume was the shop rig, a newer jeep of some kind. Nice place, well run. And it's Dan's birthday, so 5% off too. Just over $30 for the stuff in the picture.
I love it!
Joe.....your selfie reminds me of Techno Viking!
Your dancing is as good as your welding.
-G
The Techno Viking is one of my favorite internet personalites eva! I love that guy!
Funny thing...after watching that video again, I realized that I'm actually going for a look very very similar to his, in the video. The beard is obvious....whats not is my hair...I working on growing out a 'top knot'. Something like this, but not growing so much out the back of my head...just a spot right in the center of the top of my head.
If I could get back into the same shape I was in the military, I could do a pretty good/accurate impression of the video.
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Dan and the crew are always helpful, also open Saturdays if you need parts.
I also like the fact I can just walk around and grab the **** I need like it's a grocery store
I also like the fact I can just walk around and grab the **** I need like it's a grocery store
Dan and the crew are always helpful, also open Saturdays if you need parts.
I also like the fact I can just walk around and grab the **** I need like it's a grocery store
Ha!...I guess I just saw the office part, I had called ahead and they put my parts on the will call shelf....I didnt know there was a 'grocery store' part...dammit. I would have liked to see that. Although...I prolly would have spent grocery money on shock tabs or some other such nonsense.
techno = 
his girl friend =
his girl friend =
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Continued the frame boxing down to the rear shackle hanger area today. Someday I plan on continuing to box it in/re-enforce it on down around the shackle hangar area and further down the frame.
Working on these things is funky. Nothing is the same from one frame rail to the other. Nothing is square, things have been cut and chopped up over the years by previous owners...it makes my fabricatin' OCD start pingin a bit. All the ugly fish plate gussets I have to do to fix cracks etc, make it difficult to achieve anything close to symmetry. I'm gonna wear out my tape measure and angle finder makin sure I get the motor/trans/t-case to sit square/level in the frame.
Re-used this bump stop bracket from the outside of the frame as a motor-mount/cross-member gusset-
Maybe NOW I can finally work on getting the 8.1 in place. :O
Working on these things is funky. Nothing is the same from one frame rail to the other. Nothing is square, things have been cut and chopped up over the years by previous owners...it makes my fabricatin' OCD start pingin a bit. All the ugly fish plate gussets I have to do to fix cracks etc, make it difficult to achieve anything close to symmetry. I'm gonna wear out my tape measure and angle finder makin sure I get the motor/trans/t-case to sit square/level in the frame.
Re-used this bump stop bracket from the outside of the frame as a motor-mount/cross-member gusset-
Maybe NOW I can finally work on getting the 8.1 in place. :O
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Good use of the bump stop bracket! I dig it.
Hec yeah recycling at its finest, love the work man keep it up!
It took almost 8 straight hours, but today I finally got the motor mount position finalized and engine sitting in its final resting place. Engine cross-member and final welding tomorrow.
