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“Dylan’s” 89. Back at it!

89 Jimmy 6.0/4l80e/MAGNUM 205/d60/14bolt
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Thanks man. Kids are something thats for sure.

Yeah, I contacted 208 and they got back with me. Waiting for another reply, but I'm not commited to anyone yet.
 
Today's accomplishment: make a huge ass oil spill in the garage and try to clean it up before the wife gets home. :doah:
 
Motor is torn down and ready for the machine shop! Hoping to get away with just a clean and hone but it looks like I'll need some boring. If that's the case I'm gonna go .030 to make it a 370. Other than that everything looks good! Finally got the lifters out too!

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I hate trying to make decisions. I'm still debating on camming this thing. Nothing wild. Looking at something like this...

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-54-450-11

So, if this thing has to get bored then the few extra cubes isn't really going to add anything but a little compression bump, correct? (9.6:1 to ~ 10:1) The stock com looks great so I definitely don't NEED to change it, but I'm really suffering from a case of the "might as well's". I originally budgeted around $2500 for the engine build because that is what I was quoted to have a shop rebuild it for me, but since I've decided to do the rebuild myself I should be able to cut that budget almost in half; therefor, leaving room for upgrades :saweet::saweet: What to do, what to do?
 
Not horrible specs, but I would talk to Geoff at EPS in baton rouge. I'm sure you can spec you a cam that'll make better off idle torque then the one you listed. Most likely something with alittle less lsa, maybe a 111 or 112.
 
Yeah, IMO he's one of the better tuners in the Louisiana area and he takes the time to explain things way more in depth then required. I'm actually bringing my 16 GMC for a tune next week after I get the headers on. If you want an off the shelf low lift cam like that go with Brian Tooley.

ETA I have a personal vendetta with Texas Speed every since they charged me $60 to ship an oil pump one state over..
 
Tweekls1 said:
ETA I have a personal vendetta with Texas Speed every since they charged me $60 to ship an oil pump one state over..
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:yikes: What?! That's crazy! It cost just over $100 to have my front springs shipped from CO! And they probably weight more than 10x as much as an oil pump.

That's probably why they offer a 50% shipping discount for the military.
 
So I tried to "clean-up" the the rust in #7 and see how bad it is. Probably f'ed it up worse, but also it looks like there is some pitting. Well this sucks. I haven't taken to the machine shop yet but I'm not very optimistic. I feel a snowball effect about to come on.

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It's almost not noticeable just running a finger over it, and I don't think it'll catch.

In the event of the undesirable, does anyone have any experience with speed pro pistons? They seem to be decently priced.
 
I've ran speed-pro forged pistons in a turbo mazda motor and am currently running them in my 383. Very happy with them. When I was weighing parts for the 383 build, all 8 pistons were exact to the gram.
 
Speed Pro's are used a lot in the LS forums on stock/budget rebuilds. I'd try and grab a set of flat tops to pick up some compression while you're at it too.
 
Good to hear! Summits compression ratio calculator got me running 10.3:1 with .020 over and 10.35:1 at .030 over with flat tops. I think I can still run E85 with that? Might need to bump up to 91 octane if I go with full flavor gas, huh? If I can find some dished pistons I may go with that to bring the compression back down closer to 10:1. The speed pros are cheap enough that I think I'll still throw a little baby cam in too. Should easily push this beast over the 450hp mark. :saweet::saweet:



I may need to hang on to that 4l80 now :thinking:
 
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Just spoke with my machine shop. Looks like I'll be needing a bore and pistons AND more machine work. It'll be about $1000 total in machine work. Not including the price of pistons.

So this calls for a change in plans on the drivetrain. First, I'm going to go ahead with the bore AND the cam. I know I'll want to cam it later so I (famous words) might as well do it now. Second, with a bore and cam I should be easily over the 450hp 450 ft/lb mark. I think it'd be best to stick with the 4l80 I already have. I'll run it and fix it when it breaks. Lastly, this guy gets a lot of business so he's got a 6 week plus turn around. I gotta find something else to work on in those 6 weeks.

Think that's all I got for now. Ready to start assembling!
 
What numbers were you running in the compression calculator? I'm seeing 10.07:1 with the .030" oversize pistons which is pretty much in-line with what an LQ9 comes with from the factory (stock LQ4 = 9.4:1 vs LQ9 = 10:1). A set of those flat tops with either a Brian Tooley or Cam Motion truck cam and a custom tune and you'll have a beast on your hands. I'd personally stick with the 4l80 if I were you, too many friends and family have destroyed their 4l60's with stock vehicles let alone a lifter Blazer with big tires and a hopped up 6.0...

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NorCalAnthony said:
What numbers were you running in the compression calculator? I'm seeing 10.07:1 with the .030" oversize pistons which is pretty much in-line with what an LQ9 comes with from the factory (stock LQ4 = 9.4:1 vs LQ9 = 10:1). A set of those flat tops with either a Brian Tooley or Cam Motion truck cam and a custom tune and you'll have a beast on your hands. I'd personally stick with the 4l80 if I were you, too many friends and family have destroyed their 4l60's with stock vehicles let alone a lifter Blazer with big tires and a hopped up 6.0...

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I didn't know the deck clearance so I put 0 and the gasket thickness I found was .048 or .049 I think. Figured those numbers would put me in the ballpark.

That Brian tooley stage 1 truck cam is what I'm looking at now. Just got the ls6 valve springs in the mail today :saweet:
 
Yeah the deck clearance you won't know for sure without measuring but a lot of people use .007 since most engines came with .004-.010 from the factory (from what I've seen online anyways) and most stock head gaskets are .051 but you can get after market ones in just about any thickness you want... I was trying to figure out all of this stuff for a used LS2 shortblock I picked up a few months ago until I found out a spun rod bearing trashed the crank so now I'm stuck trying to decide between going with a stock replacement crank, budget pistols, and stock recon'd rods for around a grand or saving up some more cash for a stroker setup (~$2000).

That BTR cam should suit your needs perfectly and keep your valve train happy for a long time. Be sure took in to getting a valve job and the deck cleaned up on your heads while you have everything apart. The flat top pistols should get you up to around 10:1 compression but if you want to go any higher than that you can have the heads milled while they're being worked on.
 
NorCalAnthony said:
Yeah the deck clearance you won't know for sure without measuring but a lot of people use .007 since most engines came with .004-.010 from the factory (from what I've seen online anyways) and most stock head gaskets are .051 but you can get after market ones in just about any thickness you want... I was trying to figure out all of this stuff for a used LS2 shortblock I picked up a few months ago until I found out a spun rod bearing trashed the crank so now I'm stuck trying to decide between going with a stock replacement crank, budget pistols, and stock recon'd rods for around a grand or saving up some more cash for a stroker setup (~$2000).

That BTR cam should suit your needs perfectly and keep your valve train happy for a long time. Be sure took in to getting a valve job and the deck cleaned up on your heads while you have everything apart. The flat top pistols should get you up to around 10:1 compression but if you want to go any higher than that you can have the heads milled while they're being worked on.
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I know if it were me I'd go stroker, but that's just that "might as well" stuff again.

All the machining I want done is strictly on a as needed basis. 10:1 should be a good for my needs. I just want a streetable motor that can be animal when I want it to ha!

I didn't mention this, but the $1000 in machine work includes rebuilding the heads too. So I guess really it's more like around $700 in machining.
 
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