CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
1966 Chevy C20
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
I think I found LED headlights I'm going to get. My thinking is I can upgrade the headlights without having to modify the harness.
I need to see what it has for an alternator now. Not sure if it's CS or SI. Probably whichever is the older type.
I'll bet it won't keep up with the AC running at idle either. I don't think it has a fast idle solenoid.
Found a lot of that around here too. Got lucky with this one I think because he didn't post very good pictures.
That's how I got my 70 K5 I think haha
You can stumble on good deals when you find a erroniuos listing.
Here's the alternator
The charging wire runs from the alternator to this little junction block on the core support.
I'm guessing this is the main power distribution point. I'm thinking that if I put a 105 amp alternator on, I will run a new wire straight from the alternator to the battery and keep the wire that currently feeds the little bus bar as well.
For what it's worth, the new ignition is powered straight off the battery thru a relay actuated by the original ignition wire.
Here's the alternator
The charging wire runs from the alternator to this little junction block on the core support.
I'm guessing this is the main power distribution point. I'm thinking that if I put a 105 amp alternator on, I will run a new wire straight from the alternator to the battery and keep the wire that currently feeds the little bus bar as well.
For what it's worth, the new ignition is powered straight off the battery thru a relay actuated by the original ignition wire.
Oh snap! I just realized I have an externally regulated alternator. I guess that thing on the core support is the regulator. Hmmm, now I need to contemplate a conversion. I was kinda trying to keep things original, but don't want to sacrifice reliability.
Doing a little more digging and Powermaster does make a 60amp version of the 10dn external regulated alternator.
So this is the external regulator indicated by the blue arrow. I believe the green arrow is the horn relay.
I can get this little wiring conversion that would allow me to install an SI alternator.
The black block replaces the external regulator and the pigtail adapts the old plug to the new one.
So I'm debating. Cost is going to be the same either way. Alternators cost about the same and the wiring kit above costs about the same as a new solid state external regulator. Since I'm trying to keep the truck mostly original, I'm leaning towards keeping the 10dn external regulator alternator upgraded to 60 amps. Don't have plans to add a big stereo or anything else that will add to electrical demands.
I can get this little wiring conversion that would allow me to install an SI alternator.
The black block replaces the external regulator and the pigtail adapts the old plug to the new one.
So I'm debating. Cost is going to be the same either way. Alternators cost about the same and the wiring kit above costs about the same as a new solid state external regulator. Since I'm trying to keep the truck mostly original, I'm leaning towards keeping the 10dn external regulator alternator upgraded to 60 amps. Don't have plans to add a big stereo or anything else that will add to electrical demands.
Last edited:
In the long run, internally regulated alternators are easier to find and cheaper. The conversion is a one time cost.
Is there a local place by you that rebuilds alternator ? If so, they should be able to check and adjust the regulator as needed
Not local, I'm afraid. We're a little limited on that stuff.
So I'm working on a couple of things to address the electrical short comings. First thing I observed was the idle RPM. I have it set at 500 for 2 reasons, first that's what I found in the shop manual and second I've always like the lower idle in my automatics.
What I realized was the 500RPM was a setting for idle with the AC engaged, which I wasn't. I also noticed when I was at a stop light at night I only had to kick the idle up a couple hundred RPM and the alternator would charge. So I bumped the idle up to 700RPM. Honestly it seems to idle better and the alternator can keep up. It just doesn't sound right to me yet because I'm used to the 500RPM for so many years.
What I realized was the 500RPM was a setting for idle with the AC engaged, which I wasn't. I also noticed when I was at a stop light at night I only had to kick the idle up a couple hundred RPM and the alternator would charge. So I bumped the idle up to 700RPM. Honestly it seems to idle better and the alternator can keep up. It just doesn't sound right to me yet because I'm used to the 500RPM for so many years.
The other thing I did was to install some LED headlights.
I picked these because they are mid-range pricing, made in USA, and didn't require any vehicle modifications. The plug is on a pigtail.
I got the clear lens but it's still dark compared to the standard lights.
They fit just fine in the buckets. The only thing that I can see some people not liking is the lights do stick out some.
Since my grill is white, I'm thinking I may take a strip of white vinyl and cover over the black.
At first I wasn't sure how I felt about the darker looking lenses but they are growing on me. The biggest thing is the performance. They light up the road SO MUCH better. I need to find a place I can adjust them properly but one big improvement is how well they illuminate the shoulders.
I know these are a pretty big departure from keeping the truck "original" but I feel like they are a big enough improvement in other areas that I don't mind. The obvious is the better illumination. Now the headlights don't dim when I come to a stop, heck they don't dim when I turn the motor off. I also like that I'm pulling less amps through the old headlight wiring.
I'm still planning to upgrade the alternator. I figure come summer if I have the AC running at night along with headlights and everything else, I still may have some charging issues.
I picked these because they are mid-range pricing, made in USA, and didn't require any vehicle modifications. The plug is on a pigtail.
I got the clear lens but it's still dark compared to the standard lights.
They fit just fine in the buckets. The only thing that I can see some people not liking is the lights do stick out some.
Since my grill is white, I'm thinking I may take a strip of white vinyl and cover over the black.
At first I wasn't sure how I felt about the darker looking lenses but they are growing on me. The biggest thing is the performance. They light up the road SO MUCH better. I need to find a place I can adjust them properly but one big improvement is how well they illuminate the shoulders.
I know these are a pretty big departure from keeping the truck "original" but I feel like they are a big enough improvement in other areas that I don't mind. The obvious is the better illumination. Now the headlights don't dim when I come to a stop, heck they don't dim when I turn the motor off. I also like that I'm pulling less amps through the old headlight wiring.
I'm still planning to upgrade the alternator. I figure come summer if I have the AC running at night along with headlights and everything else, I still may have some charging issues.
Drove the 66 to my meeting last night; return trip was in the dark. Unfortunately too much traffic to try the high beams. It is a 20 minute drive on a rural highway = no ambient lighting. I was looking at all the other cars to see how their light spread compared to mine to get a feel if I have my aimed about right. I noticed how much brighter the pool of light was from my 52 year old truck compared to all the pale yellow pools of light from the newer cars. Made me smile. 
Also forgot what the hi-beam indicator looked like on the dash of these trucks. I snapped this pic the 1 time I had them on.
Might be easier to read the picture with the flash on.
Also forgot what the hi-beam indicator looked like on the dash of these trucks. I snapped this pic the 1 time I had them on.
Might be easier to read the picture with the flash on.
The dark headlight looks like a blown bulb with the other older light still in, but once they are both the same it looks good. 
Scott I did the alt conversion on my 64Vette w a 105 one wire upgrade.
My car also used the horn relay as a junction block. I changed that and ran the #2 charge wire from the alternator to a Jegs junction block on the firewall.
then ran a charge wire to the battery, and the horn terminal. My lights are so much brighter since the conversion!
My car also used the horn relay as a junction block. I changed that and ran the #2 charge wire from the alternator to a Jegs junction block on the firewall.
then ran a charge wire to the battery, and the horn terminal. My lights are so much brighter since the conversion!
Yeah, it looks like I had a bulb flame out or something. It's definitely a different look but I am starting to get used to it. After the way the performed the other night I'm definitely willing to get used to it.The dark headlight looks like a blown bulb with the other older light still in, but once they are both the same it looks good.
Thanks for the info. I'm still on the fence about how much I want to modify from stock. Obviously I'm already heading down the slippery slope of modifications tho.Scott I did the alt conversion on my 64Vette w a 105 one wire upgrade.
My car also used the horn relay as a junction block. I changed that and ran the #2 charge wire from the alternator to a Jegs junction block on the firewall.
then ran a charge wire to the battery, and the horn terminal. My lights are so much brighter since the conversion!
Been needing to replace these ratty old winter blades.
Problem is current replacements don't quite fit the original wiper arms. Did some searching and found out about a "modern" option. Bear in mind these blades are tiny, just 13" long. Turns out the arms and blades from a rear wiper on 84-95 Jeep Cherokees fit just great. They use the same knurled 1/2" post.
I bought new dorman arms but you could probably find them in the junkyard too.
The wipers on these trucks both sweep out from the middle to the outside edge of the windshield. This means one of the arms has to be flipped.
It's a matter of drinking it a river and opening up the pinched metal portion.
In the picture above you see the hole for the spring. That bit is bent up so you need to bend it back the other way when you flip it around. This was a bit tricky not over bending it and fatigue breaking the arm. I almost did.
After flipping the arm around I put a #8 bolt in and hammered the pinched section closed again.
Now I can get wipers off the shelf pretty much anywhere.
Problem is current replacements don't quite fit the original wiper arms. Did some searching and found out about a "modern" option. Bear in mind these blades are tiny, just 13" long. Turns out the arms and blades from a rear wiper on 84-95 Jeep Cherokees fit just great. They use the same knurled 1/2" post.
I bought new dorman arms but you could probably find them in the junkyard too.
The wipers on these trucks both sweep out from the middle to the outside edge of the windshield. This means one of the arms has to be flipped.
It's a matter of drinking it a river and opening up the pinched metal portion.
In the picture above you see the hole for the spring. That bit is bent up so you need to bend it back the other way when you flip it around. This was a bit tricky not over bending it and fatigue breaking the arm. I almost did.
After flipping the arm around I put a #8 bolt in and hammered the pinched section closed again.
Now I can get wipers off the shelf pretty much anywhere.
Nice fix!
Cool!
