CK5
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Ran all over yesterday in this beast and everything seemed fine. Took it less than a mile to the gas station tonight and had a steady vibration from 28 mph up.

Got home and the 4 bolts on my rear driveshaft flange to the t-case were all loose. About 1 to 2 turns loose each.

Tightened em back down, but I am looking to replace those bolts with longer ones, threaded the whole length of the bolt, and then putting a nut on the back side.
 
Got home and the 4 bolts on my rear driveshaft flange to the t-case were all loose. About 1 to 2 turns loose each.

Tightened em back down, but I am looking to replace those bolts with longer ones, threaded the whole length of the bolt, and then putting a nut on the back side.
I need/want to do the same thing to mine. I've had them back out a couple times now.
 
I am certain that I didn't put enough torque on them the first go around. I used the goodntight method with just a box end wrench. This time I used the fntight method and stuck a cheater on my wrench.

We'll see if they loosen up.

I'm still getting longer bolts though.
 
Sorry, sometimes I assume people know things.....
I ran my '72 K5 to Moab and back with no problems. It has a flange on the rear. You have to re-apply after removal of the bolts. It's believed that if you even try to tighten the bolts more after the Loctite has set, that you crack the seal of it. Which means that you should pull it to do it again!
Dunno...
 
No, not trying portray the way you are taking it.


I have not loctited these, I was simply saying that you are the second person to give me this advice, maybe I should listen...
 
I just meant that I could have said something earlier. But I didn't think that I would be helping.

So all good on my end.... as long as I don't come off as bossy!

And I don't know if you should worry about re-applying Loctite I found you simply check the bolts for tightness...
That's where my dunno came from....
 
Gonna be looking for a new wing window soon...
 
No great story. Just opened the drivers side one and the bottom swivel point broke free.
 
I'm not sure that the upper shock mount will stay is that location on the DIY4X crossmember, but at least the shocks are in.
 

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