CK5
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How much of the 14bFF will be left? I'm doing some looking and it might fit better for my 66 C20.

At a minimum, I am taking the ring and pinion...

If you are interested in the complete unit, I may be able to toss the 4.10 gear set back in there...
 
I could live without the gears as long as everything else is there; carrier, axle shafts, drums, etc. I was wanting to do 3.73 gears.
 
But seriously, double check your leaf spring width on the 66, these c&c axles have the 40.5 (same as all 1-tons) spring width, and the drums are close to the perches already.
 
Pretty sure I found someone to machine these dually hubs...
 
But seriously, double check your leaf spring width on the 66, these c&c axles have the 40.5 (same as all 1-tons) spring width, and the drums are close to the perches already.
The 66 is linked in the rear. Trailing arms and coils. So that's a mute point. But I suppose I should double check the clearance to the coil buckets. It currently has an ho72 Eaton axle with 5.14 gears. The axle is the only non-original thing on this truck. The previous owner had to swap it in when he got stranded with a blown axle on a camping trip in CA back in the early 70s.

From the little I can find on the WMS for this truck, the C&C 14b might be closer than a standard width.
 
Figure out what measurements you'd like, I'll get them
 
The 66 is linked in the rear. Trailing arms and coils. So that's a mute point. But I suppose I should double check the clearance to the coil buckets. It currently has an ho72 Eaton axle with 5.14 gears. The axle is the only non-original thing on this truck. The previous owner had to swap it in when he got stranded with a blown axle on a camping trip in CA back in the early 70s.

From the little I can find on the WMS for this truck, the C&C 14b might be closer than a standard width.
Keep that sucker and install an OD trans. That would make a good drag/desert race gear ratio. Why do you want to get of it?
 
For me it would be easier to swap the rear axle versus the trans. The rear needs rebuilt anyway because it likes to howl at certain speeds. Honestly tho if it wasn't for the noise I could live with it for quite a while.

I have done some reading on swapping in a 5spd and it's not as simple as it seems like it should be.
 
I came home about 20 minutes ago.

Opened the garage door.

Hooked the ignition wire for the FiTech back to battety.

Reached in and turned the key.

The truck just fired right up. Idled with no complaints.

FiTech is awesome.
 
I should say that my timing isn't even set, nor have I gone through the full setup procedure either.
 
Got the timing set, ran the wiring inside the cab proper, picked up an air cleaner stud, let it get hot again...


@skunked the IAC steps are floating between 19 and 23 under hot idle. Jumps to 32ish when the fans kick on...

Tps is 0.5 closed, 92.9 wot,.

That's the best I could muster and have a livable pedal feel. I had to build a stupid little bracket to mount the throttle cable to the FiTech unit...

I think that if I play with the cable bracket that support the throttle cable body, I may be able to squeak out the last little bit at WOT.

15017360779781694809968.jpg
 
Have you adjusted the IAC screw yet? You want that lower, between 3 and 10 at temp.
 

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