CK5
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I'm just dreading the housing chop...
The 60 is close, needs hubs and brakes.
Have to order bushings and shackle sides for the 52's.
Have to build my tierod.
Clean the garage.
Then the truck gets the rollers, and install time starts.
Front diff, springs, possible new upper shock mounts.
Rear gears, diff cover, diff chop, pinion guard.
Pull intake for reseal, new dizzy, valve covers, external coil, tidy wiring on FiTech. Dial that biatch back in. Reroute fuel lines. New heater hoses, new power steering pump.
Change front output flange on t-case, new seal.
Plus side is I found out that I can warranty the old P/S pump no questions asked...
Helps to know people...
Down side is I might end up with another POS...
The 60 is close, needs hubs and brakes.
Have to order bushings and shackle sides for the 52's.
Have to build my tierod.
Clean the garage.
Then the truck gets the rollers, and install time starts.
Front diff, springs, possible new upper shock mounts.
Rear gears, diff cover, diff chop, pinion guard.
Pull intake for reseal, new dizzy, valve covers, external coil, tidy wiring on FiTech. Dial that biatch back in. Reroute fuel lines. New heater hoses, new power steering pump.
Change front output flange on t-case, new seal.
Plus side is I found out that I can warranty the old P/S pump no questions asked...
Helps to know people...
Down side is I might end up with another POS...
So...
Voltage issue at hand. For reference, 79 350, factory underhood wiring, save for a 6 gauge wire from newer style alt (tbi style with serp) to the battery. The newer style alt has an Echlin (read: Napa) EC82 adapter between the alt and factory wiring.
This EC82 has a resistor built in to simulate the dash board "voltage warning light" on some squares with a warning light and I've read that without this resistor I'll kill the alt prematurely.
So I have been having voltage fluctuations between 12.5 to 13.9, but usually not huge sweeps... sometimes it'll run 13.6-13.9, other times 12.5-13, other times 12.9-13.4.
No real consistency, other than being inconsistent.
I have replaced the battery, replaced the alternator, old one tested good, but replaced anyway.
If I unplug the alternator while it is running, the voltage will drop, and when I plug it back in, I hear an audible change in the alternator. Voltage will increase.
Initially the FiTech readout is what alerted me to the problem, but it has ben confirmed with a DVOM...
Any ideas?
Voltage issue at hand. For reference, 79 350, factory underhood wiring, save for a 6 gauge wire from newer style alt (tbi style with serp) to the battery. The newer style alt has an Echlin (read: Napa) EC82 adapter between the alt and factory wiring.
This EC82 has a resistor built in to simulate the dash board "voltage warning light" on some squares with a warning light and I've read that without this resistor I'll kill the alt prematurely.
So I have been having voltage fluctuations between 12.5 to 13.9, but usually not huge sweeps... sometimes it'll run 13.6-13.9, other times 12.5-13, other times 12.9-13.4.
No real consistency, other than being inconsistent.
I have replaced the battery, replaced the alternator, old one tested good, but replaced anyway.
If I unplug the alternator while it is running, the voltage will drop, and when I plug it back in, I hear an audible change in the alternator. Voltage will increase.
Initially the FiTech readout is what alerted me to the problem, but it has ben confirmed with a DVOM...
Any ideas?
Is this all at idle? Could the belt be slipping? Is the FiTech connected directly to the battery? Where is the voltage sensing wire connected?
Holley makes a big deal about the EFI being connected directly to the battery to keep voltage steady. I have my voltage sensing wire connected directly to the battery.
Holley makes a big deal about the EFI being connected directly to the battery to keep voltage steady. I have my voltage sensing wire connected directly to the battery.
I would think that the belt would not slip at idle on a serp belt, but.
I would lean towards poor electronics in the regulator. The fuel pump can change the amount it is drawing sometimes , and maybe that can coincide with a variance in the regulator.??
I would lean towards poor electronics in the regulator. The fuel pump can change the amount it is drawing sometimes , and maybe that can coincide with a variance in the regulator.??
The red wire should be connected directly to the battery.
My FiTech is wired appropriately, although not the cleanest work. I am going to be cleaning it all up and adding a power post and addition fuse panel when I start surgery on the Jolly Green Giant.
Right now I have 5 wires coming directly off of the positive post; starter, alternator, FiTech, fan, fan.
I don't think this is a FiTech related issue.
This voltage readout on the Fitech corresponds with the DVOM readout at the battery. When one goes up or down, the other does too.
Obviuosly I cannot drive and hold a DVOM to the battery, so I can only assume that the fluctuations seen on the FiTech while driving are also happening throughout the rest of the system.
This is really weird...
Yesterday I put maybe 13-14 miles on the truck, but it was 8 short trips to put that many miles...
First trip was 13.6-13.9
1/2 hr shut off
Second trip 13.3-13.7
20ish minutes off
13.1-13.5
10 minutes
12.8-13.2
10 minutes
12.7-13
1.5 hours off.
13.2-13.4
20 minutes off, while replacing alternator
13-13.3 (new alternator)
20 minutes off while having old alt tested, which tested good....
12.8-13.1 during 1.5 mile ride home, left it idling in driveway, got out DVOM, set my FiTech display facing the windshield so I could see it and DVOM at the same time.
Both would correspond the whole time, although the FiTech was 0.1 volts lower tan the DVOM the whole time.
Setting there idling and playing connections for 20ish-minutes, I was seeing 12.8-13.3, and a consistent 0.2 drop when the fans would kick on, 0.2 raise when fans shut off. No amount of wire wiggling would produce any obvious change in voltage output or consistency.
Right now I have 5 wires coming directly off of the positive post; starter, alternator, FiTech, fan, fan.
I don't think this is a FiTech related issue.
This voltage readout on the Fitech corresponds with the DVOM readout at the battery. When one goes up or down, the other does too.
Obviuosly I cannot drive and hold a DVOM to the battery, so I can only assume that the fluctuations seen on the FiTech while driving are also happening throughout the rest of the system.
This is really weird...
Yesterday I put maybe 13-14 miles on the truck, but it was 8 short trips to put that many miles...
First trip was 13.6-13.9
1/2 hr shut off
Second trip 13.3-13.7
20ish minutes off
13.1-13.5
10 minutes
12.8-13.2
10 minutes
12.7-13
1.5 hours off.
13.2-13.4
20 minutes off, while replacing alternator
13-13.3 (new alternator)
20 minutes off while having old alt tested, which tested good....
12.8-13.1 during 1.5 mile ride home, left it idling in driveway, got out DVOM, set my FiTech display facing the windshield so I could see it and DVOM at the same time.
Both would correspond the whole time, although the FiTech was 0.1 volts lower tan the DVOM the whole time.
Setting there idling and playing connections for 20ish-minutes, I was seeing 12.8-13.3, and a consistent 0.2 drop when the fans would kick on, 0.2 raise when fans shut off. No amount of wire wiggling would produce any obvious change in voltage output or consistency.
Never mind, I just saw the fan comment. What kind of fans are they? What amperage is your alternator?
I think that is more proof of a crappy alternator. The one that I got built for the old '72 K5 will keep steady at 14.6 all day long on the digital voltmeter I had in the dash. It would drop to 14.4 -14.3 with the headlights on.
If you want a good one, call Western Alternator 970-240- 9273
Montrose, Co.
If you want a good one, call Western Alternator 970-240- 9273
Montrose, Co.
Yeah, I'm wondering about the alternator too. It could be with the fans running along with everything else, it's not quite keeping up; especially at idle. 105amps might not be enough. Really it's not the big number you need to pay attention to, is the output of the alternator at idle.
I should specify that this is a new issue, not something stemming back to any fan or Fitech install. This voltage craziness is only the last few weeks. I initially thought the alternator was going, but I kept having to jump start my truck, and would get above 12.6V once I would have it running. So I assumed that there must be a bad cell or something in my 5+year old battery, and decided to replace that first. New battery and truck fires right up, but I started seeing the slow voltage decline again. Well, new alternator then.
Put the new alternator in and drove to the parts house and had them test the old one. Passed... new alternator is acting the same as the old (still good) one.
While driving my fans rarely come on. I have a 195° t-stat and big block radiator, the fans are set to activate at 203°. The temp reading on the FiTech sits at 198-201 while driving. Appears as though the airflow through the rad is plenty to maintain temp as long as the truck is moving. Once I sit in traffic, then the fans will activate as necessary.
The fans are the same ones I have had for several years, I think they are Mr. Gasket brand, 14". Both the same.i don't remember the exact amperage draw they have, but it was between 15 and 20 starting amps each, and under 12 running amps. I remember because I decided to fire them with 2 relays instead of one, because a single 25 amp relay wouldn't be enough to fire both combined, would've worked at runnimg amps though.
The alternator (TBI 105 amp that every early 90's truck got) has a sticker that states 74 amps at 2k rpm and 118 at 6k.
I am assuming that this is alternator rpm, and not engine rpm, mainly because the alternator pulley is so much smaller than the crank pulley, it has to be turning 2k+ rpm while the engine is idling at 750...
The fans being on or off had no bearing on the fluctuations of voltage, other than the voltage would fluctuate .2v lower. Still fluctuating, just lower than fans off because of the load.
Put the new alternator in and drove to the parts house and had them test the old one. Passed... new alternator is acting the same as the old (still good) one.
While driving my fans rarely come on. I have a 195° t-stat and big block radiator, the fans are set to activate at 203°. The temp reading on the FiTech sits at 198-201 while driving. Appears as though the airflow through the rad is plenty to maintain temp as long as the truck is moving. Once I sit in traffic, then the fans will activate as necessary.
The fans are the same ones I have had for several years, I think they are Mr. Gasket brand, 14". Both the same.i don't remember the exact amperage draw they have, but it was between 15 and 20 starting amps each, and under 12 running amps. I remember because I decided to fire them with 2 relays instead of one, because a single 25 amp relay wouldn't be enough to fire both combined, would've worked at runnimg amps though.
The alternator (TBI 105 amp that every early 90's truck got) has a sticker that states 74 amps at 2k rpm and 118 at 6k.
I am assuming that this is alternator rpm, and not engine rpm, mainly because the alternator pulley is so much smaller than the crank pulley, it has to be turning 2k+ rpm while the engine is idling at 750...
The fans being on or off had no bearing on the fluctuations of voltage, other than the voltage would fluctuate .2v lower. Still fluctuating, just lower than fans off because of the load.
I don't see where you posted anything over 14 volts. I have seen lesser quality regulators do that. Changed out the alternator and all cured. (One from Pat, of course)
Yes, I am preaching, but I have seen SOME of what has happened to the parts industry, and what Pat has dealt with , and it's stupid. And frustrating for all!
Western Alternator has an oscilloscope to help check EVERY unit that goes out the door.
This is when we went through the factory alternator from my son's '03 D-max.
I just don't have any faith in parts store electric stuff!!
Yes, I am preaching, but I have seen SOME of what has happened to the parts industry, and what Pat has dealt with , and it's stupid. And frustrating for all!
Western Alternator has an oscilloscope to help check EVERY unit that goes out the door.
This is when we went through the factory alternator from my son's '03 D-max.
I just don't have any faith in parts store electric stuff!!
How many grounds, and where are they located?
I was having the same issue, and it turned out to be a ground issue. I didn't have near enough.
I was having the same issue, and it turned out to be a ground issue. I didn't have near enough.
From battery, one to body, one to frame
From engine, rear of passenger head to firewall, and serp belt bracket to frame.
I will be making some minor changes to my battery cable routing here soon, I am open to ideas if anyone wants to throw something out there...
From engine, rear of passenger head to firewall, and serp belt bracket to frame.
I will be making some minor changes to my battery cable routing here soon, I am open to ideas if anyone wants to throw something out there...
I'll have to check, but I think I have a total of 6 grounds on mine.
