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1979 K10 SWB "Jolly Green Giant"

Sometimes I change things
Overview Gallery Discussion
max 02 said:
Must have been fairly tight to last that long.
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I'm sure that the bolts that were super loose backed themselves out over time. Looking back I guess the most probable scenario is that I set the carrier preload with the bolts just snugged up, and forgot to torque them. And it took that long to grenade. Also looking back, I had noticed the tell tale signs that something wasn't happy in the driveline, but honestly I thought it was an extremely random misfire, the truck would just kinda pause for a spit second, then go right back to normal. I bet I was feeling the momentary binding off the rear gears when a little chunk of something would get between them, before being demolished in so horrific crushing death....
 
Justin V said:
I'm sure that the bolts that were super loose backed themselves out over time. Looking back I guess the most probable scenario is that I set the carrier preload with the bolts just snugged up, and forgot to torque them. And it took that long to grenade. Also looking back, I had noticed the tell tale signs that something wasn't happy in the driveline, but honestly I thought it was an extremely random misfire, the truck would just kinda pause for a spit second, then go right back to normal. I bet I was feeling the momentary binding off the rear gears when a little chunk of something would get between them, before being demolished in so horrific crushing death....
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Well I would place bets you will never have that problem again.
 
Bought the newer version of the wheel seals...

Came with this...

20200218_205233.jpg 20200218_205240.jpg

What say you @ZooMad75 ? (Or anyone else?)

Is there a way around this?
 
Justin V said:
Bought the newer version of the wheel seals...

Came with this...

View attachment 330376 View attachment 330377

What say you @ZooMad75 ? (Or anyone else?)

Is there a way around this?
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The way around it is to use the older style seal. Those install tools go for $120 and up online at different retailers. The reason it's different is it's a double lip seal. There's an inner and outer portion to the seal. The outer portion stays stationary with the hub and the inner stays stationary on the spindle. The inner section rotates within the outer as the hub spins. The issue is if you pound it in like you would a normal seal, you'll pinch the inner and outer sections together.

I'd loan you ours if we were closer, but I don't think it's really worth the extra expense to use the newer stuff if you have to buy a $120 + tool to go along with it. The early style has worked fine for 40 years at least.
 
Well shit Rob, that is really hard to argue with...

Probably the perfect answer.
 
It may be considered redneck, but I would find a socket or pipe that hits the seal in the proper place. But I have access to large sockets and other stuff.
I use mostly National gold series seals on the trucks at work which are 2 piece like what you have. They give me the installation tools with the seals if I don't have them, and I usually only have to pay $40 per seal. Stemco has a similar style and as long as you push in the proper place, they work well.

If you can't find a way to knock them in, the old style is probably the safer route.
 
6872xtc said:
It may be considered redneck, but I would find a socket or pipe that hits the seal in the proper place. But I have access to large sockets and other stuff.
I use mostly National gold series seals on the trucks at work which are 2 piece like what you have. They give me the installation tools with the seals if I don't have them, and I usually only have to pay $40 per seal. Stemco has a similar style and as long as you push in the proper place, they work well.

If you can't find a way to knock them in, the old style is probably the safer route.
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That's what I do.
I use these types of seal on my big rig and trailer axles.
Never had a failure because of installation.
 
Maybe you have an old bearing race that is the correct diameter? One way or even flipped over to avoid the inner piece?
 
I put the new design on my 14b and didn't use the 'special tool' So far it works.

This is not an endorsement of doing it the wrong way...
 
JoshHefnerX said:
I put the new design on my 14b and didn't use the 'special tool' So far it works.

This is not an endorsement of doing it the wrong way...
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If it's working you will be good.
I destroyed the first one, the spindle had a speedy sleeve on that I didn't notice and I was trying to get the seal on it, destroyed it and then I saw it.
Got another seal removed the sleeve and all was good
 
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