Here ya go
Summit Racing Part Number: EAR9894DBJERL
Summit Racing Part Number:
RUS-640820
Summit Racing Part Number: EAR9894DBJERL
Summit Racing Part Number:
RUS-640820
CK5
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You're the truth man.
So this is going to be very basic question but as I've never done it and never been shown I need kind of a helping hand. Pretty sure the timing is off in the truck. It doesn't really start great. And once it's been running for a bit it definitly doesn't want to start. Part of that I think is batteries being low as it doesn't normally run enough to get charged and I am sure I have a battery draw somewhere but
What am I looking for for a baseline at idle timing number? Good safe number that is good for easy starting?
What am I looking for for a baseline at idle timing number? Good safe number that is good for easy starting?
4* advanced is what I've always heard.
Start at at least 8.
Martin
Martin
Figured out the problem. The line on the balancer is off and someone painted on a new line so it was at 6 degrees off that line. But it isn't even close to tdc. I neeed to get a new timing light and a remote start switch but I got it a lot closer already.
It will already start back up after it's been running which it didn't want to do before
Fuel system plumbing ordered. Made the drive to go get the gun inspection done so I can finally plate it. Couldn't actually complete it tho as Nebraska couldn't find the California title in the system. Le they're waiting on a call back from state of ca. God knows how long that'll take. Upon making it back to the driveway found a pretty good leak of trans fluid.
Going to clean everything up and keep an eye on where the leak comes from. Really don't want to rebuild the th400 when plans are to go to a 4l80 at some point.
Going to clean everything up and keep an eye on where the leak comes from. Really don't want to rebuild the th400 when plans are to go to a 4l80 at some point.
maybe it's something stupid like the pan or the adapter.....
I'm hoping it's the front of the pan and not in pump
Working on getting the k5 tank mounted.
Filler neck looks like it's gonna pop out where I want it to so that's good. One problem is the drop bracket for the brake line is keeping me from getting the tank as forward as I'd like. So that's gonna get the cut soon. Need to drive the truck to work and use the plasma to cut out the bed floor crossmember. After that's it's just a matter of packaging everything back there the way I want and waiting on the fuel system parts.
Filler neck looks like it's gonna pop out where I want it to so that's good. One problem is the drop bracket for the brake line is keeping me from getting the tank as forward as I'd like. So that's gonna get the cut soon. Need to drive the truck to work and use the plasma to cut out the bed floor crossmember. After that's it's just a matter of packaging everything back there the way I want and waiting on the fuel system parts.
Does the bed crossmember interfere with the filler pipe? I didn't have that problem with the SWB.
No. It's more that it hits the hump where the sending unit goes. I want to get the tank as high as possible. It already hangs way further down and back than I'd like
I had that concern as well but for what's it worth I never even touched my skid in Moab. The shackles hang down more and catch the ledges.
My point being, an extra inch really isn't worth the effort IMO
