CK5
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1981 K20

6" lift. 3/4 ton axles.
Hey Bent, any idea what this is? It’s pretty hammered but it looks like it comes off the harness with the oil pressure sensor. @Bent77

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Couple of small things I did last night. Added another light directly over the engine bay. I still have a ‘ work light I hang under the hood but this helps.

Also got an engine cradle with my about to expire summit bucks. Made a huge difference in the stores big block taking up floor space. That’s where her Tahoe parks so I’m constantly having to walk around it. Should make her happier.

Also, thru a hook on the wall to get the engine stand out of the way. My walls have more shit stored on them than you can believe.

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Couple of small things I did last night. Added another light directly over the engine bay. I still have a ‘ work light I hang under the hood but this helps.

Also got an engine cradle with my about to expire summit bucks. Made a huge difference in the stores big block taking up floor space. That’s where her Tahoe parks so I’m constantly having to walk around it. Should make her happier.

Also, thru a hook on the wall to get the engine stand out of the way. My walls have more shit stored on them than you can believe.

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One would think summit bucks would be spent on things to put engine in truck..
 
One would think summit bucks would be spent on things to put engine in truck..
Engine needs a full rebuild. My buddy left it outside uncovered after he took the efi intake off so when I got it I drained 6 or 7 quarts of water out of the pan before I saw oil.
 
I got a question for you guys. What would cause the truck to start bubbling/boiling coolant after like 5 minutes idle time in garage.
I shut it off checked level and restarted and it did it again after less than a minute.

I’m getting a feeling it’s related to the thermostat opening. I can see water pumping into the radiator with the cap off. Then it starts to rise and by the time I jump down to kill engine it’s gysering.

I haven’t had a reliable coolant gauge in a while but according to the fitech controller it hasn’t even hit 200 so I don’t think it’s overheating persay.

And go.
 
I got a question for you guys. What would cause the truck to start bubbling/boiling coolant after like 5 minutes idle time in garage.
I shut it off checked level and restarted and it did it again after less than a minute.

I’m getting a feeling it’s related to the thermostat opening. I can see water pumping into the radiator with the cap off. Then it starts to rise and by the time I jump down to kill engine it’s gysering.

I haven’t had a reliable coolant gauge in a while but according to the fitech controller it hasn’t even hit 200 so I don’t think it’s overheating persay.

And go.
Have a thermal gun? The temp senders on the aftermarket efi units are known to be questionable

Saying that, is the water pump correct for the direction of rotation?
 
Yeah it’s the same water pump that’s been on it for years. I was also double checking it off the dash gauge which was reading fine. The only thing that changed is I took my heater core hoses off and did a hose direct from the intake to the hose nipple on the radiator.
 
Yeah it’s the same water pump that’s been on it for years. I was also double checking it off the dash gauge which was reading fine. The only thing that changed is I took my heater core hoses off and did a hose direct from the intake to the hose nipple on the radiator.
Why not back to the hose nipple on the pump?

If this is all you changed, I suggest reverting it and testing it again
 
Why not back to the hose nipple on the pump?

If this is all you changed, I suggest reverting it and testing it again

See pictures. The only change was taking the intake to heater hose and heater to radiator hose and I got direct.

Reason for that is a leaking heater core and don’t want to dick with it now
I’m thinking something has to be wrong on the return to block side. Cuz it is definitely pumping in when the thermostat opens. But it’s not flowing out fast enough to keep up.

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Is the hose to the radiator where the other heater core hose went?

I'm asking because mine comes off the pump and off the intake matching at the core. It may be pumping directly from the intake port and creating some of your issue, especially since this originated when you made the change
 
I don’t think that can be it. It’s been plumbed bypassing the water pump since I’ve owned it and it’s never given me any issues.
 
All I have is the fitech and the factory dash which isn’t super accurate. I have some cheapy ones I can plumb in tomorrow when my wife isn’t asleep
 
Just giggles, I'd cap off the port on the radiator and loop the hose from the intake to the water pump to bypass the heater.

I'd make sure the system is purged of air completely to eliminate the possibility bof the system air locking and overheating that way.
 
Well I don’t have a nipple so far tomorrow’s play time I’ll skip the water pump and back burner it.

But I did add the gauge in so I can keep a better eye on things from the engine bay.

So the fitech is to the left of the water neck. Cheapo gauge to the right of water neck. And factory dash gauge in the driver head.

When I pulled the upper hose I got a good bit of wooshing like air getting sucked in. So for now my gut tells me it was air locked. What I intend to try tomorrow is to run it til the thermostat opens and just start cracking hoses loose til they are all flowing well.

I still don’t think it was flowing thru the upper hose yesterday.

Also picked up a new radiator cap. When I was playing with the old one the gasket under the spring was so hard and crunchy it literally fell apart in chunks. May or may not help but worth a shot.

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