Well the shackle flip was on backwards and in the wrong holes... If my thinking is correct they should be in the factory rivet holes... I'm also thinking about putting my springs in backwards to re center the axle.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Dont you have 52's? Im pretty sure they are centered arent they?
Yes they are 52's and my center pin is off centered.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Interesting. I always thought all 52's were centered pins. How do yours measure?
They measure 52 inches long with the center pin 5 inches off centered.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I'll be darned.
Ya to make these even more interesting they have been re arched and added springs in. 
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181502&page=10
See post #94/95 for the whole process.
If I were to do it again, I'd spend the time to wire wheel/flap disk the whole frame, give it a piss coat of zinc (ryoken green), spray a 2 part urethane primer, and then top coat with the Eastwood's 2K Ceramic chassis coat.
I can't speak for the Extreme Chassis Black, but the original did have good chip resistance but it rusted through before it could have a chance to fade in the sun light
. I will say that it is very good looking frame coating and would be fine for a show car/garage queen and maybe in the Arizona desert but it was not a great rust preventative coating.
andyblack
Registered Loser
What about that Rust Bullet stuff that everyone on CK5 used to use all the time? Is it good for painting that kind of stuff?
Yup I used rust bullet too. Its still holding up pretty well too, although its not a long term solution to rust.
You can see how it looks starting at post #353 and again at post #381
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181502&page=36
You can also see what the frame looks like after 2 years of the eastwood original chassis black coat on there
This is picking my brain hard, it's just paint. It looks like the original chassis black faded in your pictures?
It looks like the original chassis black faded in your pictures?
Ya it did...
So much for UV pertectin then. I wish thy made miracles in a can.
Paint it and leave it in the garage.
This truck has been in the family for 21 years, and lived in a garage for 8 months if it was lucky.
I'm seriously about ready to buy the 2k ceramic paint and call it a day. If I have to brush it on so be it.
I'm seriously about ready to buy the 2k ceramic paint and call it a day. If I have to brush it on so be it.
Try a small area with the 4" foam rollers. Not sure if the rollers would hold up. Might go on smoother than with a brush.
Everything I have read they say it flattens out and the brush strokes are not really noticeable.
I was actually just thinking about picking up a few foam brushes and rollers.
I was actually just thinking about picking up a few foam brushes and rollers.
let me say a few words. . . . . . .
get it done ! stop over thinking and spending $$$
ask some of us old timer guys here
what happens if you keep over thinking it.
get it done ! stop over thinking and spending $$$
ask some of us old timer guys here
what happens if you keep over thinking it.
let me say a few words. . . . . . .
get it done ! stop over thinking and spending $$$
ask some of us old timer guys here
Nothing gets done? I have ran into this a few times already...
I used por-15 (just like rust bullet) on my floor and around the whole topper seal area on my blazer. Stuff dries like a rock. Yah what sees sun gets flat looking in the sun. I imagine some clear coat or something would fix that. I was surprised how hard it felt after it cured. It took me forever to scuff it up with sandpaper to lay bedliner on top on my floor. Regular paint scuffs up really easy where the por-15 just didnt with 80. Ill use it again. Ive had a rusty hitch i painted with it (that ended up not fitting with my skid plate) sitting outside since spring and its not rusty yet.
