You should see what happens to a battery when the direct feed to the starter has a retainer clip brake. And the wire lands on the manifold
.
.CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Lol I blew a hole in both of my brand new trans cooler lines when hooking up my starter.... yea i knew betterYou should see what happens to a battery when the direct feed to the starter has a retainer clip brake. And the wire lands on the manifold
You should see what happens to a battery when the direct feed to the starter has a retainer clip brake. And the wire lands on the manifold
You should see the people scrambling over rocks to escape said battery.
Makes a fella wonder what the hell is going on!
You should see the people scrambling over rocks to escape said battery.
Open hood.
Battery acid shooting staight up.
Old fat guy running for his life.
That thing cooked off all through lunch.
Lots of smoke.. Had that happen a few times in different trucks..
Babaganoosh if you oversize most of the grounds you'll have less issues with almost everything current follows path of least resistance, big ground straps reduce this risk of shorts or at least gives the current somewhere to go.
My alternator is just like mrk5 and hasn't had any issues, I will say with a stock starter that's tired and the wires seem undersized maybe 10ga? They're the vatozone replacement seem to be to small.. Sometimes mine doesn't spin over as quick so go big on stuff that might need it.. Starter alternator to battery, lights relay bank etc.
Babaganoosh if you oversize most of the grounds you'll have less issues with almost everything current follows path of least resistance, big ground straps reduce this risk of shorts or at least gives the current somewhere to go.
My alternator is just like mrk5 and hasn't had any issues, I will say with a stock starter that's tired and the wires seem undersized maybe 10ga? They're the vatozone replacement seem to be to small.. Sometimes mine doesn't spin over as quick so go big on stuff that might need it.. Starter alternator to battery, lights relay bank etc.
I had a battery cable to the starter ground out on the frame and toasted the fusible link and toast the battery. That's how I found out at ay young age how to space the wires away from the manifold
I'm stuck on wiring this. I want it as clean as possible and trying to leave the side post open for dual battery
I'm stuck on wiring this. I want it as clean as possible and trying to leave the side post open for dual battery
If you run a Ford starter solenoid the only time the cable to the starter is live is when you are starting it.
You then can pull all your power from the SS instead of the starter. Less things get melted around the headers and such.
It also makes a nice place to run a remote start too when you are doing work on it.
You then can pull all your power from the SS instead of the starter. Less things get melted around the headers and such.
It also makes a nice place to run a remote start too when you are doing work on it.
I don't know enough how the LS wiring fits in to the equation. Do you just have a single battery feed to connect or do you have to feed several things? That question is in regards to the motor.
I like that. Ever since seeing Wade's battery melt down I've been wondering about ways to prevent that.
My ls engine harness has a constant and switched 12v wires.
I hate clutter off the battery, my plan was to use the junction block to achieve this.
I hate clutter off the battery, my plan was to use the junction block to achieve this.
On pretty much every Chevy I have owned I have done that, Twinkie has two one for each battery and the battery's are on separate systems.
The "Ford solenoid" will actually clean up your wiring.
Martin
Martin
You still can. Alternator to battery. Battery to Ford solenoid (big cable like 2/0ga) From same lug on the solenoid as the 2/0ga, run a 4ga wire to the junction block thru a 150A fuse (ANL type). You could also put the alternator charging wire on the Ford solenoid with the 2/0ga & 4ga wires. Then of course the starter pulls from the other side of the Ford solenoid. I would use 2ga cable.
Anyway, that's how I'd do it.
hmmm, still that requires more then using the factory junction.
I don't know I'm at a loss and need to sleep on this to figure out how to do it. I really really liked the battery to just had a positive and negative it was very nice and CLEAN.
I understand the starter solenoid idea and execution, and I'm also not building a show truck, but at the moment everything is wire tucked and you can't see anything. I want to achieve that throughout the entire system under the hood.
I don't know I'm at a loss and need to sleep on this to figure out how to do it. I really really liked the battery to just had a positive and negative it was very nice and CLEAN.
I understand the starter solenoid idea and execution, and I'm also not building a show truck, but at the moment everything is wire tucked and you can't see anything. I want to achieve that throughout the entire system under the hood.
You would have 1 positive off the battery, the 2/0ga to the solenoid. The solenoid could be mounted wherever and covered.
.
I can't really think of a way to hide this and not have such a eye sore to look at.
You need to rate your fuse based on wire size like everyone else said. Here is little chart based on wire size, and length.
Doesn't have to be too complicated. In the picture below I made a cover for the CUCV bus bars on the firewall.
It's just a flat piece of .040" aluminum bent in an L shape with a flange for screwing to the firewall. Leaves the sides and bottom open for wires but covers the "ugly".
You could mount the solenoid on the fender or firewall and do the same kind of cover.
It's just a flat piece of .040" aluminum bent in an L shape with a flange for screwing to the firewall. Leaves the sides and bottom open for wires but covers the "ugly".
You could mount the solenoid on the fender or firewall and do the same kind of cover.
