B
Bent77
Guest
I'm on it
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Yesterday was a rainy day off and on, but I was able to take the little lady for a ride. She doesn't seem to like the shift kit very much.
Did do some more data logging but not exactly sure how to select it in ScanXL to get a graph view
Still waiting on my registration to come, seems to be lost in the mail I think I'll get a reprint at a 3rd party dmv for 10 bucks.
Did do some more data logging but not exactly sure how to select it in ScanXL to get a graph view
Still waiting on my registration to come, seems to be lost in the mail I think I'll get a reprint at a 3rd party dmv for 10 bucks.
Wait...you can go to a back-alley DMV and buy a registration for $10? Maybe I should move to your state.
No it's just a reprint and the alley way dmv places are awesome. They let some stuff slide.
I have noticed at higher speeds the truck isn't as stable. The steering is ultra responsive and I'm wondering if it is the all heims or it's just the nature of the beast.
I have 6 degrees of positive caster. I'm almost positive I had the pinion angle set at 0 on the u joint flange when I paid to have the link brackets welded on. I have heard ansywhere from 4-6 was ideal. If my memory is correct the more positive the faster it rotates back to center.
Should I stick a angle finder on the steering arms to measure caster or is the u joint flange just as effective?
I want to eventually run a sway bar but as of right now it isn't in the cards. Moab put a high stress on my bank account and I'm still recovering.
I have 6 degrees of positive caster. I'm almost positive I had the pinion angle set at 0 on the u joint flange when I paid to have the link brackets welded on. I have heard ansywhere from 4-6 was ideal. If my memory is correct the more positive the faster it rotates back to center.
Should I stick a angle finder on the steering arms to measure caster or is the u joint flange just as effective?
I want to eventually run a sway bar but as of right now it isn't in the cards. Moab put a high stress on my bank account and I'm still recovering.
I use the steering arms along the edge next to the studs.
I put some extreme wear on the front tires driving to and from Moab this year. I broke down and took it to an alignment shop. Toe was way off.
Aside from that caster and camber are good which actually gave me quite a bit of piece of mind. I think because I had swapped all the front suspension for the conversion I was worried I had stuff all out of whack. I was happy to know I apparently got it right.
So maybe have your alignment checked and make sure it's all set right.
I put some extreme wear on the front tires driving to and from Moab this year. I broke down and took it to an alignment shop. Toe was way off.
Aside from that caster and camber are good which actually gave me quite a bit of piece of mind. I think because I had swapped all the front suspension for the conversion I was worried I had stuff all out of whack. I was happy to know I apparently got it right.
So maybe have your alignment checked and make sure it's all set right.
Once I get my tags and everything it will go on a rack. As of right now it tracks straight down the road.
I have set the alignment with plum Bob's and levels.
I have set the alignment with plum Bob's and levels.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
How did you set your toe? Caster is more than just return to center. And measuring at the u joint flange is only use full for driveline stuff. Definitely need to measure at the steering arms. And need to make sure that the surface you are measuring from is actually a true perpendicular to the imaginary line going from the top ball joint to the bottom ball joint.
If you were to take the tire off and look at the ball joints from the side, the top ball joint should be behind the bottom ball joint.
If you were to take the tire off and look at the ball joints from the side, the top ball joint should be behind the bottom ball joint.
We set the toe by picking a spot on the front and rear of the tires and measuring across. Not ideal but close enough until it's on a rack.
My camber defiantly needs attention and I will be buying the alignment bushing for the upper ball joint.
Last weekend it was raining and didn't feel like getting wet. Most likely this Sunday I'll be doing a all day thrash for daily driving.
My camber defiantly needs attention and I will be buying the alignment bushing for the upper ball joint.
Last weekend it was raining and didn't feel like getting wet. Most likely this Sunday I'll be doing a all day thrash for daily driving.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Wanna know a much more accurate (but still poopy) way of measuring toe? Make a mark just on the front of the tires. Measure. Now roll the whole truck until the marks are on the back of the tires. This way you are measuring off an identical point and not a close point. I think forget about your drive ability issues until you take it for an alignment.
I've been wanting to try that method. I figure it's ideal if you roll the truck forward to check the measurements so you're getting the correct "load" on the steering components.
What I did before was clamp steel on the rotor and measure front and rear.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
You just said you made marks on the tires? Are you saying you have done steel in the past?
Yes that is correct, with about 4 feet long flat strap.
Sorry wasn't very descriptive.
Sorry wasn't very descriptive.
Epic fail, I figured out my issue and have no idea how I didn't crash or anyone noticed it...
I have it set as -6 degrees caster.
You can see the diff rolled forward the upper ball joint is leaned forward .
Did I mention I drove it down the highway at 75mph?
I have it set as -6 degrees caster.
You can see the diff rolled forward the upper ball joint is leaned forward .
Did I mention I drove it down the highway at 75mph?
You can probably fix that a little by adjusting the links. Careful not to go too far as your panhard bar and shock heims will freak out.
The front of the steering arm should be higher off the ground than the back of the arm
The front of the steering arm should be higher off the ground than the back of the arm
I should be fine, I think it will actually fit even better now.
I know I have enough adjustment in the arms to pull it off.
I know I have enough adjustment in the arms to pull it off.
-6 is better than zero. Yes, handling may suffer pretty bad in the curves as your tires will rotate wrong and the contact patch will get bad and you may lose traction, but for going straight down the highway I would rather have some caster, even the wrong way, than nothing at all. At least it should help the steering recenter itself. Hopefully you had the suspension setup for the correct caster when you welded it and you just reassembled it with the wrong caster? Otherwise I would be worried about stuff colliding into each other, moving it 11 - 14 degrees is a lot! I hope you can simply adjust the arms and everything is better! Good luck.
It should actually help everything. When the link brackets were welded on the pinion was set to zero. Everything is rolled forward.
Late night thrash session made for a opps error. No worries, I'm confident it will pull around and be fine.
Late night thrash session made for a opps error. No worries, I'm confident it will pull around and be fine.
I should be good with adjusting when the brackets were welded on it was set to zero.
It's scary right now at 75 and I want this to go down the highway.
It's scary right now at 75 and I want this to go down the highway.
