CK5
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I still need to call around and see about getting my radiator cleaned. It's a old school all metal 4 core that has been in the truck sense 1991 and hasn't leaked ever.

Would hate to get rid of it.
 
100 dollars at most to clean the radiator, and im going to cut the grille to make it fit.

Once cleaned I'll plumb it through the radiator then to the cooler and back to the trans.
 
100 dollars at most to clean the radiator, and im going to cut the grille to make it fit.

Once cleaned I'll plumb it through the radiator then to the cooler and back to the trans.
Running it through the radiator again?

Patiently awaiting transmission #5 :popcorn:
 
I'd say because of your past issues, ditching that radiator or loosing the connection completely will give you extra insurance knowing that you have not just injected particulates into a new transmission. At this point I would not trust any cooler or cooler lines unless I could visually identify that there was no contamination. Heck I'd run a filter in the cooler return line just to be damn sure nothing got in there.
You have too many variables therefore making it almost impossible to control them and to analyze the failure should it happen again.
Just because it's been cleaned doesn't mean that there isn't still an ohstruction present. I personally would hate to see you go through this again. Seriously consider running new hard line, new hoses if it has them, and a brand new or known good cooler. Or not one at all for the first few miles to verify operation. Just make sure you have a temp gauge. My trans guy tells me there's no break in so testing it is not a bad idea just do it on dirt so you don't go breaking the sprag or overrun clutch.
 
Yeah you could easily install an inline ford type trans filter setup in your return cooler hose to catch any debris before it got back to the trans. Real good idea to catch stuff from the new cooler and any thing left over.
 
I have steel braided lines so I doubt it's collecting stuff but just in case those get flushed as well.

Should I get new ones or assume they are good.
 
I have steel braided lines so I doubt it's collecting stuff but just in case those get flushed as well.

Should I get new ones or assume they are good.
Brake clean and a rubber tip blow gun is all I've ever done and never had an issue. Just do it both directions.
 
I would gladly pay the 100 to get it checked out and make sure to not have the same problem again. The radiator is 25 years old it wouldn't hurt.
 
If you're willing to do all these steps, why are you still willing to run the radiator. It would seem that eliminating that point of weakness to start out would be a good idea. Even if you end up adding it back in again once you know the trams is solid.
 
If you're willing to do all these steps, why are you still willing to run the radiator. It would seem that eliminating that point of weakness to start out would be a good idea. Even if you end up adding it back in again once you know the trams is solid.

It's a all metal old school 4 core that has been flawless. I have seen a failed t stat in 115 degree weather and it never got over 215 degrees towing a boat and a cab over camper loaded down with the family.

I just haven't given up on the radiator yet and don't see a reason to replace it.
 
I think the bigger issue is why do you want to run the trans through it.

Keep the radiator. It's good business for sure.

Separate the two systems and eliminate that passage as a source of the problem...
 
I think the bigger issue is why do you want to run the trans through it.

Keep the radiator. It's good business for sure.

Separate the two systems and eliminate that passage as a source of the problem...

I thought the radiator loop was a benefit when it came to warming up a cold tranny. :dunno:

Not that Ben's truck has ever seen a cold day down there. :haha:
 

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