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1986 GMC 3+3 dually build.- cummins swap.. Round 2, 2024 update.

Overview Gallery Discussion
K30guy said:
I’m gonna have to revive this thread, read through it and loved it! Great work. I was just wondering if you had any good pictures of the divorced T case mount. I’m considering a divorced case for my build, as I’ll be running an NV5600. Also, do you have any advice on installing the Dodge charge air cooler in the rad support? I’ve done one, somewhat successfully, on a round eye, but yours is very clean and admirable
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Hey I am sorry I never saw this, but I think if you dig through my media on here you can find a good picture of the tcase mount. It hangs from the top and its not exactly pretty. I also have it supported under by having a bracket bolted to the output yoke area.

The intercooler was a tight fit. I remember having to cut out a lot of the actual grill to make it work, the radiator support it just kinda snuck in there. It was out of a 96 dodge and I also had to remove my blinker and hide them up top instead of down low. There are pictures way back in the thread, I forget which page but I did upload them all onto this site.
 
Hey everyone, its been a minute but having a toddler will do that to ya. I've been using the truck for well, truck things, getting top soil, cruising ext. Finally had nice weather where I decided to wash and wax it up. I was inspecting it a little closer and noticed the rust that was hardly there in 2012 is now really showing through the rust bullet. I store the truck in a garage, it is not driven in any winter salt at all but this was on the truck when I got it. Little heart broken about it but I am not sure what the best course of action is. It has drip rails that are screwed into the roof. Maybe this is the source of moisture/rust? It is on the driver side down the back door under the sealant too.

What can I do other than cut it out and try to weld in and make up replacement panels for it? Have you ever used any evaporrust or eastwood rust dissolver? Do I wire wheel it and slap more rust bullet on and keep moving for another 8 years?
wash

wash

wax 5

wax 5

wax 4

wax 4

wax 3

wax 3

wax 1

wax 1

rust 9

rust 9

rust 8

rust 8

rust 7

rust 7

rust 6

rust 6

rust 5

rust 5

rust 4

rust 4

rust 3

rust 3

Rust 1

Rust 1

 
Ouch. Take the seam sealer off and then use ospho or some type of rust converter. Not sure what else to do.
 
So now that it’s been a few years, what’s your “review” of the truck? How is the truck holding up to the motor? Is it fun or tiring to drive as a daily? What would you change if you built it today?
 
nvrenuf said:
So now that it’s been a few years, what’s your “review” of the truck? How is the truck holding up to the motor? Is it fun or tiring to drive as a daily? What would you change if you built it today?
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Trucks been great to me, I regularly take it on 3+ hour drives up north, cruise all the back roads, etc. Its super reliable. I dont exactly daily it, my normal daily commute is 60 miles around trip on highway in morning rush hour so I save it for the weekends/etc. The truck is doing great with the motor in it. If I built it today, much different situation being in a nice garage. I would probably leave it 2wd and air bag it to be honest. It is so clean minus the roof that I will never use it "offroad" or whatever and I love the look of slammed duallys but making it 4wd was way cheaper than airbagging it properly. Also I would re-do my engine cross member with a cncplasma cut one now. I have access to one so I could make some things much nicer on the fit. I still need to put AC in the truck and maybe, maybe paid it one day. Other than that, super happy with the whole truck minus this roof rust situation.
 
Thanks for the info. :thumb: Lately, I’ve been daydreaming about a clean dually like yours that’s just dead simple and fun to drive. It’ll be a while before I do it but I want to.
 
My rust free K5 has a weird rust spot on the passenger door jam like that too. Must have been a problem area.
 
Well its been a while, thats what happens when you have a 3year old and a 10month old in your life. All great things. So other day I checked in on the trucks, started up the dually, backed it out of the garage, let it idle for a while. All snow covered driveway forced me to put my np205 in 4wd for the first time in years, so I drive back in the garage, toss it in what I think is 2wd, back out again and thats when all hell broke loose. My entire drivetrain lunged forward an inch or 2, pushing my fan blade into the radiator support, and causing me to shut down the truck instantly out of fear of what the hell was that griding noise.

I get out, check it all over, nothing looks broken, very weird lunge and bucking from the drivetrain, cannot get the tcase in gear, anytime I let the clutch out full bucking of drivetrain, grinding, not going anywhere. Shut it down again. Something is really ****ed in the tcase. Tried for a while to get it in 4wd, 2wd anything. I put the truck on jackstands to check whats up, can get all shafts to spin but as soon as I put truck on the ground again w any resistance bucking, grinding etc. I disconnect my shifter to the tcase, (its divorced) I try sliding the shift rails manually , do the same stuff with starting it, trying different combos of shifter rail in the tcase, its being a total jerk on trying to shift it.

Its 20degrees and ice/rain/snow here and I am 10ft from my garage so I disconnect dshafts to try and see if something is jammed up and realize I cannot slip my midshaft into the 2wd nv4500 to get the ujoint out of the tcase. It appears my input to the tcase slipped towards the trans by 1/2" inch thus not allowing my mid driveshaft to come out. So here I am looking at what you guys think of rebuilding a 205, or what the heck could have happened? Wheres the best full rebuild kit from?

I have yet to pull the tcase out (again 2 kids make this tricky) but when I get it out eventually, what the heck broke you think? I also feel like I need a new trans mount (doesnt look bad but is 10years old and covered in engine oil) Thats my only thought why it moved so much when it jammed. Ill add pics later.
 
What let go to allow the drivetrain to hammer into the radiator? Are the motor and tranny mounts still intact? That's wild
 
K30guy said:
What let go to allow the drivetrain to hammer into the radiator? Are the motor and tranny mounts still intact? That's wild
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They are, I can't see anything actually broken I can only assume the rubber mounts are worn on everything.
 
Best thing I can think of is maybe the case piled up and puts a huge load on the drivetrain when you let the clutch out. Very interested to see what ends up being inside there. I'm about to rebuild my 205 for my swap, and I think I'm gonna go with the kit from Offroad Design
 
In for pics. Definitely weird how you described it.
What does "It appears my input to the tcase slipped towards the trans by 1/2" inch thus not allowing my mid driveshaft to come out." mean more specifically?
 
nvrenuf said:
Any update on the problem?
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So I took my Tcase out, tore it apart, then I did a twin stick conversion, checked everything inside and there was no damage. I put it back together and it looks clean, shifts etc. The next problem which I am JUST digging into is my slip yoke out of the back of the nv4500 is not coming out, it slides about 1inch and will not come out. It also spins but there is some grinding noises, I feel like I snapped the output of the trans but I cannot check until I cut my exhaust and drop the trans cross member and remove the tail cone of the transmission. I also got a closer look at the motor mounts and the rubber is all torn so I have to replace those too. This will be a super slow rebuild as my only time to work on it is 8pm till 930pm 2 days a week.
 
stockk5 said:
So I took my Tcase out, tore it apart, then I did a twin stick conversion, checked everything inside and there was no damage. I put it back together and it looks clean, shifts etc. The next problem which I am JUST digging into is my slip yoke out of the back of the nv4500 is not coming out, it slides about 1inch and will not come out. It also spins but there is some grinding noises, I feel like I snapped the output of the trans but I cannot check until I cut my exhaust and drop the trans cross member and remove the tail cone of the transmission. I also got a closer look at the motor mounts and the rubber is all torn so I have to replace those too. This will be a super slow rebuild as my only time to work on it is 8pm till 930pm 2 days a week.
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Almost sounds like it's trying to grab 2 gears at once, but that couldn't really be if you took it all apart and checked it out
 
K30guy said:
Almost sounds like it's trying to grab 2 gears at once, but that couldn't really be if you took it all apart and checked it out
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I know that feeling.
It was happening in my freightliner with the 10 speed Eaton
 
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