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1986 GMC 3+3 dually build.- cummins swap.. Round 2, 2024 update.

So this whole time she has had no tcase shifter. Its a 2wd trans with divorced tcase. Makes it tricky to build a shifter mount but here goes.

I am thinking a piece of dom bolted to my trans xmemeber, or plate with pivot points off the top of my trans cover bolts. I took my tunnel cover off to examine...

Thoughts?

 
If I were in your situation I would use a first gen dodge shifter lever and mount that assembly to the the nv4500 case. Probably three cover bolts and two of the back case bolts.
 
Cable shifters could do the trick here. Not sure what the price is on those setups though.
 
i built one from 2 stock shifter levers . 1 big bolt to pass threw them welded to a mount i fabbed to pickup 2-3 bolts off the trans . then threaded rod and hiems and rail adapters from ord and a boot and plate kit from them as well . i did it a few years ago for my friends old truck . 18-20" lift total on 46" m/t claws .

pic 1-2 i got off line years ago . but same basic idea i did off this guys .
pic 3 from ord web site . i used there boot and mount plate and 2 rail adapters and heim ends . threaded rod local hardware store . its fine thread rod also . http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/NP205TwinStickShifters.htm

ord did or still does offer a divorced kit for twin stick .

32.jpg

35.jpg

205%20Twin.jpg

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So i did more thinking, then grabbed some dom, the heim joint and tossed this in there. I will plate it to the top of the trans for extra support from any twisting too. Just tack welded now.

The lever off the heim joint
 
So with a 7month old my time is limited to about 45minutes once he passes out at night before I need to sleep as well... slow but happy with the progress.

The heims should go right in the tab mounts pretty easily.

I realized having heims top and bottom are going to allow this to rotate... so I am gonna have to maybe add another tab or something else on the lever piviot to stop it from swinging

I made this shift knob a while ago and will finally put it to use.
 
well, put the shifter lever on, and it requires me to put a 2ft pipe on to allow me to shift it. This seems to be an issue... when I refreshed the tcase back when i put it in the truck I never took the shift rails out and havent used 4wd since putting it in. Anyways, i decided to drop the tcase and figure out whats up, why is it so hard to shift? I am still not sure why its so hard to shift seeing i took the ball and spring out and it moves alright. Any advice?


Pretty embarrassed at my fab, this was the last thing i did to stuff the truck together that summer 7 years ago and im sure i got lazy and tired and just made it work. Ah, well it worked, time to re-do.



plan is to re-do the mounts to and make the legit etc.
 
I think it's okay if stuff doesn't look the best as long as it works.
 
well, put the shifter lever on, and it requires me to put a 2ft pipe on to allow me to shift it. This seems to be an issue... when I refreshed the tcase back when i put it in the truck I never took the shift rails out and havent used 4wd since putting it in. Anyways, i decided to drop the tcase and figure out whats up, why is it so hard to shift? I am still not sure why its so hard to shift seeing i took the ball and spring out and it moves alright. Any advice?


Pretty embarrassed at my fab, this was the last thing i did to stuff the truck together that summer 7 years ago and im sure i got lazy and tired and just made it work. Ah, well it worked, time to re-do.



plan is to re-do the mounts to and make the legit etc.
If you look at the stock shifter the ratio of the leverage is high and the bottom section is a couple of inches with the top being a little more than a foot.
Your bottom section is what 6"?
That requires more than 2 feet to compensate.
Since you have a heim and the tcase is further back, if it will clear just shorten the bottom section to as short as possible.
 
I ended up cutting down the linkage, I also ended up loosening the detent bolt a lil and that seemed to allow it to shift just fine. I am going to put some adjustable tension ones on there. My other problem is when I rebuilt it the yokes had lil groves on the seal area. I cannot for the life of me find a redi-sleeve that is the dimension I need. Anyone know of a good spot to find what I need for a redi-sleeve to stop my yokes from leaking?
 
I had to look it up for a dodge 205 I think. I remember it being a pain to catalog. Might just have to cruise the catalog by dimension and find which one you want. I have had to do that several times out of probably 100 sleeves.
 
I ended up cutting down the linkage, I also ended up loosening the detent bolt a lil and that seemed to allow it to shift just fine. I am going to put some adjustable tension ones on there. My other problem is when I rebuilt it the yokes had lil groves on the seal area. I cannot for the life of me find a redi-sleeve that is the dimension I need. Anyone know of a good spot to find what I need for a redi-sleeve to stop my yokes from leaking?
Is it a 32 spline?
Check with @sweetk30 he had on done and has part numbers
 
The pace is slow as hell here but more progress, i ended up making a rear mount in solidworks, cut on the plasma table and welded up. It should be good for a little extra bracing. New seals and gasket kit while i had it on the bench.




Gonna toss it back in this weekend i hope.
 
I’m gonna have to revive this thread, read through it and loved it! Great work. I was just wondering if you had any good pictures of the divorced T case mount. I’m considering a divorced case for my build, as I’ll be running an NV5600. Also, do you have any advice on installing the Dodge charge air cooler in the rad support? I’ve done one, somewhat successfully, on a round eye, but yours is very clean and admirable
 

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