CK5
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1989 Crew Cab Tow Rig Build
- Thread starter Kay86K5
- Start date
Haha, I'm planning on removing the auto shifter from the column soon
To be honest, the trans doesn't feel any heavier than the TH400 I pulled out of it. I don't know the overall weight of either, but can't imagine they are far off.
Now the motor, yeah, that was a substantial weight increase over the TBI350, haha.
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- Jul 18, 2000
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Looking good! Progress always feels good after a few long days. I hated cutting the hole in the floor of my Burb. What a PITA to get it in the right spot. The bad news is bolting the engine and trans in is the easy part. From here on out things will become more time consuming, frustrating, and expensive. Every wire you connect, route and protect will determine the success or failure of the swap not to mention the ease of working on years down the road. Poor wiring, routing and harness protection can lead to a lot of drivability and reliability issues with these swaps. Whatever you think it will take you to do the wiring and plumbing, plan on 4 times that long. Take your time
You may want to rework the crossmember fastening as the bolts and spacers are in the wrong spot. The bolts should be inside the channel and those spacers should go above the frame. The purpose of those spacers is to allow for a longer bolt to achieve higher torque for a tighter clamp load. The spacers are not intended to fill the gap in the crossmember where you have them now. Pics below for reference. I added a flat stock spacer to help with driveline anges. On a long truck like yours you probably don't need to worry about that.
Can’t see the spacers very well but they are on the top side of the bottom frame channel
Anxious to see you get her done and see another 8.1L scream to life
You may want to rework the crossmember fastening as the bolts and spacers are in the wrong spot. The bolts should be inside the channel and those spacers should go above the frame. The purpose of those spacers is to allow for a longer bolt to achieve higher torque for a tighter clamp load. The spacers are not intended to fill the gap in the crossmember where you have them now. Pics below for reference. I added a flat stock spacer to help with driveline anges. On a long truck like yours you probably don't need to worry about that.
Can’t see the spacers very well but they are on the top side of the bottom frame channel
Anxious to see you get her done and see another 8.1L scream to life
I already fixed the crossmember/bolts, just didn't get a pic of it. That was temp for Saturday night until this morning when I put a new trans mount on
- Joined
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Good deal. I have lots of pictures like that as well where they were shot before the final final.
Yeah, that happens more than I would like. Sometimes I don't take the time to take really good quality photos after things are actually finished, I just take a few in temp stages just so people can see what's happening. Should probably get better about that.
I actually have a quick question for you Larry. As you saw, I'm using the L29 mech throttle body as well. With everything I've seen everyone says you need to run a TB spacer so the swing arm has enough room to fully swing....however with mine just bolted up to the intake temporarily right now, and with a later model curved oil filler tube on there so it's out of the way of the swing arm, it seems like the arm can swing to full throttle without any issues whatsoever. Did you notice anything like this?
And to your point above, I feel like I've made some real good progress in a short amount of time....but I know I have a LONG ways to go and from here on out is going to be time consuming and freaking expensive with all the little things here and there. It is what it is though
I can't say it enough, great job. I am a jelly doughnut.
Haha, thanks. (in my best Homer Simpson voice) Hmmmm, Jelly doughnut (girgling sounds)
Oh, there is one thing I forgot to mention before that some people might like to know if you plan to do this swap in a similar square body. My truck had hyrdroboost factory. I am using the stock 8.1 power steering pump that I just bolted onto the new workhorse bracket assembly (in some of the pics you can see the p/s pump bolted up). My factory 1989 power steering hoses bolted right up to the 8.1 pump with no issues whatsoever. The high pressure hose was the same size and everything.
My brother was asking me that question last night if I had to do anything different for this, and I already told him the lines were hooked up and done. He was pretty amazed. It got me thinking that this was a detail that some might like to know.
So there ya go
My brother was asking me that question last night if I had to do anything different for this, and I already told him the lines were hooked up and done. He was pretty amazed. It got me thinking that this was a detail that some might like to know.
So there ya go
good info
Question for guys who have done LS swaps.....on the fuel line situation....I am pretty sure I have figured out exactly what I'm going to do with my fuel lines (going to run all brand new braided stainless steel flexible lines). My question is, I want to put adapters both on the tank side and the fuel rail side of the motor to convert the lines to 6-AN. The feed line is 3/8, so the size line should match to keep that fine, but the return line is 5/16, so I would be increasing the return line size. This shouldn't effect fuel pressure correct? I would understand if I was decreasing the return line size that would jack up the fuel pressure like crazy, but making it larger shouldn't effect the PSI or the overall system, right?
I have read a few guys who have said it's fine, just wanted to double check before I order up my fuel line parts. If anyone has some good insight, please let me know
Oh, and I didn't get to work on the truck last weekend cause it was snowing like crazy here, and this weekend we are going wheeling with a couple guys from CK5, so next weekend I will get back on this thing. I've had quite a few parts come in the mail this week, plus more in the mail, plus going to order more....I'm sure the wife is sick of boxes showing up at the house
I have read a few guys who have said it's fine, just wanted to double check before I order up my fuel line parts. If anyone has some good insight, please let me know
Oh, and I didn't get to work on the truck last weekend cause it was snowing like crazy here, and this weekend we are going wheeling with a couple guys from CK5, so next weekend I will get back on this thing. I've had quite a few parts come in the mail this week, plus more in the mail, plus going to order more....I'm sure the wife is sick of boxes showing up at the house
as long as the return is a minimum size so it doesn't build pressure at the regulator you'll be fine.
That's what I thought too. Even though my actual line will be larger, the fittings at either end (motor and tank) are still the required 5/16, so the way I thought about it, it should be just fine. And I've seen many guys with LS swaps change to 6-AN fittings and hose....so I can't image I'm breaking new ground here that will screw me, haha
twisted boost
Registered Member
Great work looking forward to seeing the finish product!!! Hell ya bad a$$..
So, I'm going to try and make a list for myself of the misc things I need:
Install NV4500/NP205
Cut whole in floor for shifter
Hook up slave cylinder and adapt to the line to my master cylinder
A/C compressor
Install new crank pulley (then I can get a belt and be done with the front)
Install my new coil packs (I already put new spark plugs in and have new wires too)
Get 454 headers and install O2 sensor bungs
Get air intake setup
Get a new big block radiator and fan shroude
Get L29 mech fan and fan clutch
Get new fuel lines setup (have an idea for that, just need to buy the parts to do it)
Install my new high pressure fuel pump in the existing tank
Purchase stand alone wiring harness
Fill everything up with fluids
I'm sure I'm missing stuff...but this is what I could think of off the top of my head to get it drivable. It may seem like a lot....but this list is a heck of a lot smaller than a couple months ago
I love lists....especially when I can check things off the list!
a story bit about those DIY4X motor mounts...I had my all iron 454/TH400/203/205 doubler sitting in the bare frame and the motor mounts were bolted to the frame/engine but I had the back of the doubler sitting on plastic milk crates. Came out the next day to find the milk crates collapsed and the whole assembly hanging on by the engine mounts, the tail of the doubler had dropped about a foot, but the motor mounts hardly budged....tough stuff!
x2 on those DIY4x mounts, just installed mine a couple weeks ago and they were worth every penny over the worn out stock ones. And gained me even more header to driveshaft clearance.
wow looking really good. I know where there are 2 x 2wd crew cabs. gonna hope they sit there for 1yr until my next bonus... one has a 454 and other is missing trans/motor. I want to nab the 2 and convert to 4wd as my main wheeler... will see..
following your build!
following your build!
Great work looking forward to seeing the finish product!!! Hell ya bad a$$..
Thanks....always loved these crew cab squares. Hopefully it will be pretty sweet when I'm done
Yeah, I have the same exact motor mounts in my K5 crawler too. I love them. I still think it's pretty funny that I was able to use motor mounts that are designed for a small block Chevy on this 8.1. If my truck originally had a 454 in it, I would not have been able to use DIY4x's mounts, I would have probably had to figure something else out. But since mine was the TBI 350 I had the small block engine pedestals, and the 8.1 has holes on the block so you can mount up a LS style motor mount, or regular Big Block/Small Block motor mounts....pretty freaking cool.
I know some people say they don't like to use these style of mounts on anything other than a trail rig, but to be honest, when I put these on my crawler, I didn't notice any more vibration from the motor than before. Plus, I plan to do more things to this motor later on down the road once its up and running to really get some power out of it....and I wanted mounts I knew were up to the task
When I first started looking for a crew cab, I was trying to find a 2wd that had a good body on it (didn't want to mess with body work cause I freaking hate it) and I was going to convert it to 4wd. I was hoping that by going 2wd I could pick it up way cheaper, but I was wrong...at least looking out west here. Even 2wd trucks guys were wanting quite a bit for, IMO. But when I found this one that was already 4wd with a really good body on it, and the price was right, I had to jump on it. Only thing that sucked was it was 4 states away....but do what you gotta do, ya know!
I know some people say they don't like to use these style of mounts on anything other than a trail rig, but to be honest, when I put these on my crawler, I didn't notice any more vibration from the motor than before. Plus, I plan to do more things to this motor later on down the road once its up and running to really get some power out of it....and I wanted mounts I knew were up to the task
!
I never noticed any increased vibrations with mine at all, but my 350 is stock and just hums along.
That's also nice to know about the 8.1 having the older style mount bosses on the block. I'll have to keep my eye open for an 8.1!
