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1989 Diesel Jimmy. What do we have here hmmmm

Overview Gallery Discussion
So after the many annoying delays of going here and there and all that other stuff that gets in the way of working on stuff.

Trans is in. TV cable is hopefully adjusted right. I will take it for a drive tomorrow. Still need to throw the instrument cluster back in and take 2 other columns apart to get the good parts so my windshield wipers work and the turn signals self cancel and the horn works.

So here are some pics.

The modified driveshaft, going to probably have to pull the shims out of the rear axle to keep if from vibrating, these are the remnants of a cool cv driveshaft that was broken, I will be getting a SYE soon so I wanted to spend as little as possible

2011-03-16_20-53-16_213.jpg


Transmission pan, welded a drain plug in it

2011-03-25_11-38-14_636.jpg


2011-03-25_11-37-51_724.jpg


going to feel good to drive it again
 
CUCV2 said:
It's looking good. What did you end up using for axles?
Click to expand...

Still just 10 bolts for now, but I found some 4.56 gears for a 14 bolt semifloat and looking for a 6 lug semifloat for cheap or free.

By the end of summer it will have a 14b SF 6 lug rear, with a 10 bolt front.

I have found the factory e lockers for a 14b sf for under 500 bucks on ebay. So that will eventually find its way in there

As far as the trans cooler goes here ya go

2011-03-28_23-33-01_688.jpg


Well that looks old you say. Well yes it does. I didn't' even look to see if the PO had mounted one up. I have run cleaners through the trans lines so I think I will just stay with the one that is mounted up
 
So in interesting thing about this truck. The guy who did all the mods must have wanted to do it right.

Some things this truck has that most other trucks (normal people not CK5 folks) have.

Extended brakelines, the driveshafts were extended, and the rear (even though it was broke) was a cv shaft. Speedo correction on the t-case, trans cooler, rear lift springs. It looks like the person who modified it originally intended on doing it correctly then it may have gotten sold to someone else who didn't take care of it.

Hey Keith whats the back story on this thing, did you know the guy that modded it orginally?
 
Nope came in as a impound guy never picked it up, tow company owed me some money. I took it as trade figured I could sell it to make the money he owed me cuz the cash wasn't coming. He owed me basically what I sold it to you for.

Should have got it running and sold it for more :rolleyes:
 
blazinzuk said:
Still just 10 bolts for now, but I found some 4.56 gears for a 14 bolt semifloat and looking for a 6 lug semifloat for cheap or free.

By the end of summer it will have a 14b SF 6 lug rear, with a 10 bolt front.

I have found the factory e lockers for a 14b sf for under 500 bucks on ebay. So that will eventually find its way in there
Click to expand...

Are you talking about an H2 e locker? Do they fit? Is there a carrier ratio break for the locker? How wide is a Hummer axle compared to Blazer? Sorry for the barage of Q's. You got me thinking of new possibilities.
 
CUCV2 said:
Are you talking about an H2 e locker? Do they fit? Is there a carrier ratio break for the locker? How wide is a Hummer axle compared to Blazer? Sorry for the barage of Q's. You got me thinking of new possibilities.
Click to expand...

Yes the H2 locker. H2s were 8 lug so if you are 8 lug there you go but I want 6 lug. Not sure about the width on the hummer axle


No carrier break in a 14b SF and the e lockers came in a 14bsf 9.5" ring gear, so I am making some assumptions they would work. Randys has two different 9.5"s listed one up to 97 and one after, the H2 is of course in the after category.

The difference is in the 97 and later axles you will find a triple lip pinion seal. I am not sure if the housing changed but all the gears and hard parts are the same between the two. This makes me think you could actually put the triple lip seal in the old housing, but I have not verified this.

So basics of a 14 b sf 8 lug and 6 lug are internally the same. They use different brakes and axles (that are the same size just one drilled for 8 lug and one for 6 lug)

2 wd axles are supposedly narrower than 4 wd axles. I have found 2 different lengths of aftermarket axles so that supports that.

No carrier break, any traction adder for any 9.5" SF will fit.

I think for guys wanting to run a 38" or smaller tire this is a great axle. For me who wants to run a 36 or 35x14.5 its really the only option as I want to stay 6 lug
 
cool stuff Eric, what mods were done to the trans?
 
blazinzuk said:
Yes the H2 locker. H2s were 8 lug so if you are 8 lug there you go but I want 6 lug. Not sure about the width on the hummer axle


No carrier break in a 14b SF and the e lockers came in a 14bsf 9.5" ring gear, so I am making some assumptions they would work. Randys has two different 9.5"s listed one up to 97 and one after, the H2 is of course in the after category.

The difference is in the 97 and later axles you will find a triple lip pinion seal. I am not sure if the housing changed but all the gears and hard parts are the same between the two. This makes me think you could actually put the triple lip seal in the old housing, but I have not verified this.

So basics of a 14 b sf 8 lug and 6 lug are internally the same. They use different brakes and axles (that are the same size just one drilled for 8 lug and one for 6 lug)

2 wd axles are supposedly narrower than 4 wd axles. I have found 2 different lengths of aftermarket axles so that supports that.

No carrier break, any traction adder for any 9.5" SF will fit.

I think for guys wanting to run a 38" or smaller tire this is a great axle. For me who wants to run a 36 or 35x14.5 its really the only option as I want to stay 6 lug
Click to expand...

Thanks for the good info. Sounds like you have done your homework on this. This is an ideal axle for a daily driver/part-time hauler. Wish they all came like this.
 
I always keep an eye open for a SF 14 bolt too. I want to stay 6 lug on my blazer as well. Any reason a guy couldn't bolt in the 8 lug version for our generation rig and use a spacer/adaptor for 6 lug? Are they really that bad?
 
COCHEV said:
I always keep an eye open for a SF 14 bolt too. I want to stay 6 lug on my blazer as well. Any reason a guy couldn't bolt in the 8 lug version for our generation rig and use a spacer/adaptor for 6 lug? Are they really that bad?
Click to expand...
It can be done, it is just a bit time consuming to do. I believe it was NEK5 that did it not that long ago. It is not as simple as just bolting an adaptor on, it requires a few changes at the hub end, including brakes, backing plates, and more.
 
Well finally got the trans all put back together and went for a little drive. Everything seems alright.

One of my buddies is going to come over sometime and double check me on the TV cable, but it seems to be shifting pretty good right now.
 
So did some driving today.

Now I am freaking out, according to everything I have read, the best way to make sure the TV cable is adjusted is to go for a drive, let the trans shift into second floor it, if the trans shifts back down to first then you are good.

Sooooo, I am not good. Any advice. I am going back out to look for bent brackets and other things.

Any common stuff you guys can think of.
 
My experience with TV cables ,with that tranny non the less, is besides let a pro do it, is at full throttle it should be really tight.
 
as I recall the procedure was to have the throttle closed, pull up the clamping mechanism on the cable housing (the part that is attached to the bracket at the accellerator) so the cable adjuster can move within its housing, then go full throttle and push down on the clamping mechanism to lock it in place.

I'll look in my 85 Service manual tonight when I get home. I'm not sure if its different for a diesel or not.
 
depress "D" button, move sheath all the way towards firewall, release "D" button.. actuate to WOT.. should click out a couple clicks..
 
ryoken said:
depress "D" button, move sheath all the way towards firewall, release "D" button.. actuate to WOT.. should click out a couple clicks..
Click to expand...

Yep thats what I have done like 5 times.

Okay problems are this. I cannot get a downshift into first.

I have read that the way you check the TV cable is part throttle till it shifts into second and floor it. It should kick back down into first.

It downshifts in every other gear. Floor it in 4th and it kicks down to third. Floor it in 3rd and it kicks down to second.

Part throttle upshifts are pretty smooth and decently snappy but not harsh. Full throttle upshift happen at a higher speed and are a bit harsher.

If I keep it floored it will stay in third. I have only gotten it up to highway speeds (75)

So do I need to click the TV cable out a click or two?

Could the spring in the valve that the TV cable controls be the wrong spring, if so is this going to damage the trans?

This is really bothering me. Really bugs me when I can't figure something out. Plus I don't want to burn up the trans.

Taking it to a pro is kind of out of the question because either my wife has to drive it all next week or I am putting about 300 miles on it on Monday
 
Eric, I don't think it will upshift at full throttle unless there is a Corvette servo installed. I think that was the only way to get full throttle OD.
 
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