CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
can't hurt, but the threads are deep in behind manifold, loosen them a little pb blast as well as possible into bolt hole then tighten loosen spray tighten loosen. If turning the bolts get really hard stop.
do take the bolt out all the way, loosen all at same time. Sometime the end ports on manifold want to bend into center ports, enough that the bolts won't turn freely. Also if manifold is completely removed and is bending in, it very difficult if not impossible to start and tighten. If this happens you will need to force the end ports back.
there is a tool you can buy I made my own, piece of heavy tube big washer nut and bolt.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-13000-Manifold-Spreader-Chevrolet/dp/B0009OR94W

Don't forget to look for gaskets pieces stuck to head and manifold
 
I generally replace the donuts anytime I take that connection apart unless they've been in just a short time. Especially if you have an O2 sensor in the system. They are relatively cheap.
 
That snow run really got me motivated. Dug into the exhaust leaks a bit more tonight. Passenger side donut was completely f***ed.

It was a real pain getting at the highest nut on the exhaust mating area, I had to loosen it about 1/8th of a turn at a time.

IMG_20210301_190724558.jpgIMG_20210301_190736603.jpgIMG_20210301_190712268.jpgIMG_20210301_190745584.jpg
 
Someone failed at that install. Try a long 3/8ths extension deep socket. wobble extension would be ideal @ 18 to 24" long. when you put it all together tighten each nut a little at a time alternating till each stud until tight. A little gasgasinch will help hold the doughnut in place so your new doesn't end up looking like that old one
 
Fuel injection engines really like no exhaust leaks. Some how they draw fresh oxygen into the system, tossing the readings out the window and confusion ensues

You know, that is super encouraging to hear because it's consistent with what @Capt Ron and I found when he came over last time. Engine was flooded with gas. If fresh air was coming in, it was probably throwing off the computer like you say. Pumping too much gas in and flooding itself.
 
You know, that is super encouraging to hear because it's consistent with what @Capt Ron and I found when he came over last time. Engine was flooded with gas. If fresh air was coming in, it was probably throwing off the computer like you say. Pumping too much gas in and flooding itself.
The added oxygen getting to the O2 sensor makes the computer think it's not getting enough fuel. It effectively fools itself into thinking the engine is running lean. So it adds fuel to compensate, but it never sees the mixture go back to the rich side. It can never overcome the lean condition so it continues to dump fuel. It will foul plugs pretty quickly.
 
Someone failed at that install. Try a long 3/8ths extension deep socket. wobble extension would be ideal @ 18 to 24" long. when you put it all together tighten each nut a little at a time alternating till each stud until tight. A little gasgasinch will help hold the doughnut in place so your new doesn't end up looking like that old one

I have some red high-temp RTV gasket maker here at home, might be able to get away with using it instead of gasgacinch?

I also have black adhesive sealant silicone... not sure why I bought that or what I'd use it for when I already have RTV. Knowing the differences between all of these different silicone products is tough.
 
those are thick but if you use just enough, very lite, to keep the doughnut stuck to manifold you'll be ok. I used to use clear rtv on air cooled VW aftermarket exhaust tubes, no problems.

you don't want the rtv to be the seal you want the doughnut to be the seal
 
Got the exhaust donuts in last night. Still runs like shit. I fired it up last night and it was vibrating like crazy. Just moved it far enough to roll the tires a little bit and parked it again. Tonight it won't start, I'm sure it's flooded again.

Just now I noticed that the replacement spark plug wires are deeper than my original wires.

Here is a comparison photo, the original wire is on top and the new wire is on the bottom.

Spark plug end:
16149164945196762790578337343078.jpg

The distributor ends are basically the same depth.

Can't help but wonder if these spark plug wires are just too deep and they're not making full contact with my plugs.
 
I am probably making something outta nothing. They seem to seat fully when popping onto the plugs.
 
You can specifically buy shorter spark plugs; I've run them with headers. That's the only time I think you'd have to worry about the boot being too long deep.
 
Have the leaks at the exhaust manifolds been addressed?

If you feel the terminal snap on the plug tip your good
 
Have the leaks at the exhaust manifolds been addressed?

If you feel the terminal snap on the plug tip your good

I filled up the big crack/hole in the passenger manifold, but haven't removed the gaskets that sit between the exhaust manifolds and the heads. I figured those leaks were minor in comparison to the hole in the passenger side. I hope to tackle those gaskets this weekend with the warm weather.
 
Well, one of my injectors isn't spraying fuel. "There's your problem..." :doah:

I swapped the connectors and the same side still was not spraying, so it looks like it's gummed up or something. If anyone has tips on cleaning let me know.
 
Well, one of my injectors isn't spraying fuel. "There's your problem..." :doah:

I swapped the connectors and the same side still was not spraying, so it looks like it's gummed up or something. If anyone has tips on cleaning let me know.
Is it TBI?
 
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