I’d take a file to that and see if I could work it out before replacing it.
CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning
- Thread starter shima
- Start date
First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
Now you know how tight you can go. 
I'm making progress...
New calipers installed. I think I finally have the leaks sorted out. It took a ton of torque to get the new bleeder screws to stop leaking on the new calipers. I saw online that some people wrap the threads with teflon tape... I did not do that... but I was surprised with how tight I had to get them before they stopped leaking.
The pedal feels great when the truck is off. When I fire it up, the pedal is still super soft. Going to keep bleeding. I figure now that all of the leaks seem to be handled that bleeding will be much more "meaningful".
New calipers installed. I think I finally have the leaks sorted out. It took a ton of torque to get the new bleeder screws to stop leaking on the new calipers. I saw online that some people wrap the threads with teflon tape... I did not do that... but I was surprised with how tight I had to get them before they stopped leaking.
The pedal feels great when the truck is off. When I fire it up, the pedal is still super soft. Going to keep bleeding. I figure now that all of the leaks seem to be handled that bleeding will be much more "meaningful".
You shouldn't need to seal the threads of the bleeder but sometimes we do unnecessary things because it makes us feel better. It may have had a little debris on seat that kept it from sealing well.
One bleeder screws, if it doesn't seal well loosen then tighten again, repeat until it seals.
And never use Teflon tape, it is not the threads that stop the fluid, it's blocking the hole on the taper, so you need to match the shape on both sides to seal
I am close to being done (I hope).
Last night, I went out and cleaned up the garage floor. Wiped everything down to start with a clean canvas. Then fired up the truck and hit the brake pedal about 10 times. No visible leaks.
Next, I did a traditional bleed at all four bleeder screws. I started furthest from the master and pumped the pedal about 20 times each. I filmed the bleeder tube to see whether any air was coming out during the process. Some air came out of my rear driver side but that was about it.
After completing the bleed at all four bleeder screws, I checked once more for leaks (fired up the truck and pressed the pedal another ten times). A little brake fluid came out of the banjo at the front passenger side. I tightened it down just a little bit more and checked for leaks again. Tightening it down a little bit seemed to have done the trick. No clue why it would leak when checking this second time but not the first time.
Anyhow, after that I double-checked all torque for everything then reinstalled the front wheels and went for a test drive:
I shut everything off and called it a night. In the next couple of days I am hoping to go out and see whether anything dripped onto the cardboard. I may also give everything another 1/8 turn on the driver's side (since that is where I saw liquid during the test drive).
When all of this is sorted out, its first stop is the spray bay so that I can clean everything down really well. I'll snap a photo. Cross your fingers for me.
Last night, I went out and cleaned up the garage floor. Wiped everything down to start with a clean canvas. Then fired up the truck and hit the brake pedal about 10 times. No visible leaks.
Next, I did a traditional bleed at all four bleeder screws. I started furthest from the master and pumped the pedal about 20 times each. I filmed the bleeder tube to see whether any air was coming out during the process. Some air came out of my rear driver side but that was about it.
After completing the bleed at all four bleeder screws, I checked once more for leaks (fired up the truck and pressed the pedal another ten times). A little brake fluid came out of the banjo at the front passenger side. I tightened it down just a little bit more and checked for leaks again. Tightening it down a little bit seemed to have done the trick. No clue why it would leak when checking this second time but not the first time.
Anyhow, after that I double-checked all torque for everything then reinstalled the front wheels and went for a test drive:
- The new front springs feel GREAT!
- The popping noise when turning at slow speeds is GONE!
- My steering wheel is oddly "off" now (it is tilted at about a 30 degree angle while the truck is driving straight)... not sure what caused that.
- The brakes felt fine, but after my first hard stop in the alley behind my house I got out and checked beneath the truck and found liquid on the pavement beneath the driver's side front and rear.
I shut everything off and called it a night. In the next couple of days I am hoping to go out and see whether anything dripped onto the cardboard. I may also give everything another 1/8 turn on the driver's side (since that is where I saw liquid during the test drive).
When all of this is sorted out, its first stop is the spray bay so that I can clean everything down really well. I'll snap a photo. Cross your fingers for me.
Change in ride hight at front made the wheel off. If off to left lengthen drag link if of to right shorten it.
Good going keep up the good work
Good going keep up the good work
On the banjo bolt, do you have the copper washers on both sides?
If you have them it shouldn't need more than a firm snug to seal.
This is weird
Yeah, I do have the copper washers on each side of the banjo... not sure why I'm having so much trouble with leaks.
These reman calipers that I bought from AutoZone seem "fine", but the way that the hardware (bleeder + banjo) threads into them seems "off". For example on the bleeder screw... I have to really torque that sucker down in order for it to not leak air/fluid. Then if I loosen it even 1/8 of a turn, it is loose as all hell in there! Like I can wiggle it with my fingers after loosening just the tiniest bit. Pretty annoying.
I have thought about you and others telling me to loosen things up and then tighten them back down a few times... I am going to give that a real honest try tonight in hopes of getting a better seal.
Am very Leary of rebuilt calipers.
While I have personal rebuilt hundreds, most Ford 2 piston,
I really don't understand why all these brake shops insist on selling calipers, profit is the only reason.
I would take that caliper back and get another. Do so till you get a good one. Make sure you inspect all the threaded parts, before leaving store. take a wrench with you.
While I have personal rebuilt hundreds, most Ford 2 piston,
I really don't understand why all these brake shops insist on selling calipers, profit is the only reason.
I would take that caliper back and get another. Do so till you get a good one. Make sure you inspect all the threaded parts, before leaving store. take a wrench with you.
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I think I am finally calling this job "done".
Everything is installed, torqued, greased... and it is leak-free. I've been driving it for the past few days and am finally feeling confident that it's good to go.
Here's a recent photo:
The brake pedal feels... "fine". It is firm, I just wish it were more firm. I drove it out into an empty parking lot and tested slamming on the brakes. It stops perfectly fine and I can squeak the tires quickly so I think from a safety standpoint I'm in good enough shape.
The drag link adjustment for the steering wheel tripped me up more than I'd like to admit. Here is a photo of what the steering wheel looked like when the truck was driving in a perfectly straight line:
When trying to adjust the drag link, I would drive into the garage and make sure that it was tracking perfectly straight. Then I'd jack it up and disconnect the drag link at the pitman arm. I would then go inside the truck and turn the steering wheel perfectly straight. At that point both the wheels and the steering wheel would be straight. Then I would reconnect the drag link. However, I would tighten or loosen the tie rod end on the drag link before reconnecting it... because I was trying to make the tie rod end align to the hole in the pitman arm.
I think it was a flawed approach because it never came out right. Eventually I thought to myself, "hey man you're probably introducing too much change at once when you do this"... so I stopped messing with the wheels or the steering wheel at all. I would just loosen or tighten the tie rod end one turn at a time and then would reconnect everything without moving the steering wheel or the wheels (or doing so as little as possible). Eventually I got it right.
One thing that I'm a little concerned with is the amount I had to loosen the tie rod end that connects to the pitman arm. This tie rod end was the only side of the drag link that I messed with. I never spun the other end that connects to the knuckle(?). Here is a photo showing the amount of threads that are exposed now:
Overall I am really happy to be past this job. The Blazer has been down since early or mid-July, so call it 2 months now. The brake line work and the ensuing leaks were definitely the worst part of it... but now I don't have to worry about them anymore.
Thanks as always for everyone's support. I appreciate you guys immensely.
Everything is installed, torqued, greased... and it is leak-free. I've been driving it for the past few days and am finally feeling confident that it's good to go.
Here's a recent photo:
The brake pedal feels... "fine". It is firm, I just wish it were more firm. I drove it out into an empty parking lot and tested slamming on the brakes. It stops perfectly fine and I can squeak the tires quickly so I think from a safety standpoint I'm in good enough shape.
The drag link adjustment for the steering wheel tripped me up more than I'd like to admit. Here is a photo of what the steering wheel looked like when the truck was driving in a perfectly straight line:
When trying to adjust the drag link, I would drive into the garage and make sure that it was tracking perfectly straight. Then I'd jack it up and disconnect the drag link at the pitman arm. I would then go inside the truck and turn the steering wheel perfectly straight. At that point both the wheels and the steering wheel would be straight. Then I would reconnect the drag link. However, I would tighten or loosen the tie rod end on the drag link before reconnecting it... because I was trying to make the tie rod end align to the hole in the pitman arm.
I think it was a flawed approach because it never came out right. Eventually I thought to myself, "hey man you're probably introducing too much change at once when you do this"... so I stopped messing with the wheels or the steering wheel at all. I would just loosen or tighten the tie rod end one turn at a time and then would reconnect everything without moving the steering wheel or the wheels (or doing so as little as possible). Eventually I got it right.
One thing that I'm a little concerned with is the amount I had to loosen the tie rod end that connects to the pitman arm. This tie rod end was the only side of the drag link that I messed with. I never spun the other end that connects to the knuckle(?). Here is a photo showing the amount of threads that are exposed now:
Overall I am really happy to be past this job. The Blazer has been down since early or mid-July, so call it 2 months now. The brake line work and the ensuing leaks were definitely the worst part of it... but now I don't have to worry about them anymore.
Thanks as always for everyone's support. I appreciate you guys immensely.
Well I am glad you feeling good about the work you did and the truck is performing well. Yes you did make extra work for your self. All that was needed was loosen both sleeve clamps and turn sleeve to make drag link longer, tighten clamps. maybe 10 min job. No need to jack up, pretty easy on lifted truck, esp for a slim guy such as yourself.
So how are the new springs ???
Inquiring minds need to know
So how are the new springs ???
Inquiring minds need to know
Good work Drew. You were on the struggle bus for a good amount of the time but you kept your head down and got it done. You can be proud of that fact.
Wes beat me to it on the drag link adjustment. Loosen the clamps on the drag link and turn to make it longer or shorter to center the wheel. They make a tool for it but a pipe wrench does the job if you don’t mind the marks it leaves on the adjuster sleeve.
I’ll probably be doing something to mine on Sunday if you want to bring the tool by. Saturday I’m going to check out a possible D60 and or pickup a spare 241 as I seem to have a need.
Wes beat me to it on the drag link adjustment. Loosen the clamps on the drag link and turn to make it longer or shorter to center the wheel. They make a tool for it but a pipe wrench does the job if you don’t mind the marks it leaves on the adjuster sleeve.
I’ll probably be doing something to mine on Sunday if you want to bring the tool by. Saturday I’m going to check out a possible D60 and or pickup a spare 241 as I seem to have a need.
Thanks guys.
@Wes Harden the new springs feel great. I haven't done anything other than city driving so far but even here in metro Denver I have noticed a difference.
@ZooMad75 I can almost definitely do that. Thanks again for letting me borrow it.
Do you guys think I'm okay with having so many threads showing on that tie rod end? Don't want to be risking it being unsafe by having too little of the tie rod inside the drag link clamp.
@Wes Harden the new springs feel great. I haven't done anything other than city driving so far but even here in metro Denver I have noticed a difference.
@ZooMad75 I can almost definitely do that. Thanks again for letting me borrow it.
Do you guys think I'm okay with having so many threads showing on that tie rod end? Don't want to be risking it being unsafe by having too little of the tie rod inside the drag link clamp.
Ideally you’d have the same amount for each side in the sleeve. That way when you adjust it correctly one won’t be too close to coming out of the sleeve.
Count how many threads are exposed on the other end, pop the side off you removed before and turn it until it’s the same as the other side. Reattach and then adjust the sleeve.
Count how many threads are exposed on the other end, pop the side off you removed before and turn it until it’s the same as the other side. Reattach and then adjust the sleeve.
^^ x2
That depends on how much you got threaded into the sleeve on the one side. Not much, I’d fix it now. If there is a good amount in the sleeve it could wait.
yeah i address that before the next oil change, lest you forget. The K5 isn't your daily is it ? next oil change could be awhile.
