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1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...

I havent updated this much at all since my membership had run out and no way to upload pictures but i got some pennies together and renewed it because how could i not!? lifes been quite a rollercoaster lately but some good things have happened to the blazer, besides finding more and more rust haha, thatll probabaly never end though. I have priced out inner and outter rockers, rear wheel quarter patch pannels, tail pan, rear floor, and some other pieces ill need... going to hopefully go back to the oilfield this summer and money wont be so ****ing scarce.. One thing i love about not working in that field is all the time ive had to just tinker with my truck. Spent so much time trying to upgrade things ive blown past fully understanding and fixing all the small things which has been very satisfying.

So i had ordered a crossover kit sometime back , lets just say it took about 2-3 months before i finally got the call that it was ready.. I went to install it but ran into clearance issues with the tie rod being ontop of the knuckle. It was binding on the spring clamp and rivet. So after installing it all i took it back to stock and waited until i could afford some Add-a-leafs and u bolts from ORD. But me being me decided to go wheeling one day while i waited for a local shop to make the u bolts. Turns out my wheel cylinder decided to shit the bed hard about 1.5 hours into the bush. Noticed the pedal went to the floor all of a sudden and stopped. Looked back and saw the wheel cylinder inside the drum. Luckily my SS brake line was still attached and not hacked. So on front brakes only and a whole lot of white smoke as my entire master cylinder of brake fluid was in my rear drum i got it back home to my place and took the tire off. The drum was so hot i had to leave it for an hour or two to cool down before i pulled the drum off. Inside was this:

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It sheared the mounting bolt location from the brake cylinder, and also blew out the (piston end) lip aswell. All the internals of the wheel cylinder were bingo balls in there. I thought i was sorta lucky it didnt damage but but the pads and what not, I was happy to find out nothing had scored or grooved the drum at all. It did bend the mounting location on the backing plate quite well. I had to remove it and hammer it back straight with a punch and it also broke the anchor pin location for the springs. A piece you cant buy and also a piece that is either factory red thread locked in there or some POS previous owner did... So while the truck was down and needed a whole rebuild kit and pads ( the pads only come in boxes of all 4... just my fuggin luck with me being super poor. Went and got pads and started thinking about what to do. I have no other vehicle to cruise the local junkyard so i started thinking.... I ended up using the old centre pin i took out of my front leafs and welding it in place for now until i can locate a used stock one.

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While the truck was down from the rear end and i was stranded at home for a few days i decided to cab to the spring shop, get my u bolts and start on the front end, just hoping the inch would be enough for clearance.
 
Oh and this is where i was when my brake shit the bed... far enough from home at about 1000m elevation that we started to find snow....IMG_20180319_195450_341.jpg
 
I dont have many photos from the install but i managed to get some near the end, its just a ten bolt tear down anyway, nothing too exciting anyway. But heres what i got. I do have some concerns with the clearance on the drag link arm and the crossmember in flex but i dont think this thing will be that flexed anytime soon. I needs love, not wheeling and more repairs.

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I cant use my stock location for the steering stabilizer anymore as the hole in the tie rod end is slanted the opposite direction. I was thinking of cutting off the stock location and using a BDS clamp style one, but at the moment the steering is so much nicer and stiff, and im only running one dead shock on the front anyway so i think its pretty low on the list of things to do. On one knuckle the stopper ( the bolt that makes contact to the axle tube ) is gone, not sure if its too necessary but i will put another bolt in and mimic the other side and weld it in just in case. Im glad i lucked out with a steering box that is still nice and tight with no leaks. Another thing i was wondering is which hole the drag link should be mounted into. They have two possible locations so you can run high steer with the same kit. As of now my drag link is in the furthest hole to the front of the truck. I thought itd have the most leverage there but now that i think about it the tie rod would be infront of the drag link if it was high steered also , correct? anyway for now i dont think itll matter much.

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Rear end was also making some harsh noises on the last trip, saw this and grabbed it for a spare until i can afford a detroit..
for the price i couldnt let it pass me by. Not something you see often either around here.

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What a POS though... brutal just looking at it..
 
And one last cool shot my good friend took with his drone when we were hell bent on continuing along the snowy road we found. Screenshot_20180319-210243.png
 
Your progress looks good, nice work on the temporary anchor pin fix too.

The draglink is in the right spot on the new crossover arm as well
 
Your progress looks good, nice work on the temporary anchor pin fix too.

The draglink is in the right spot on the new crossover arm as well

Thanks man, im pleased with the front end for sure and im stoked i can address some other issues now like a crappy clutch, slave cylinder, of course rust, and some other things... like saving money for a welder. I want to start to look for a bottom end of a motor to start a build. Thinking a bored out rebuilt 350 or a 402 or something. A nice slow build where i can finally build my first motor, cuz this turd is getting gutless, probably blowing oil past the rings and no compression after a few 1500 km road trips without stopping, and its around 300K. Time to go for sure. would also love to drop my np241 sooner than later and replace the shift fork as its popping out of 4wheel sorta too often and i heard its good to tackle that now instead of when it totally shits the bed. Could probably use a new chain aswell.
 
im excited to move past axles and tires and suspension and move towards the drive line stuff.
 
So I'm running into some issues with buying a slave cylinder for my sm465. I purchased one locally and the slave itself is the exact same but the mounting bolts are 3.5 inches centre to centre and the mine is 2.25 inches centre to centre. With it being a cast part I can't drill it out either for my application can I? I returned it and hopefully I'll have better luck on Rock auto. Until then I'll just keep rev matching gears haha.
 
Good work Nick!
Is the blazer not for sale now? Hopefully not.

I wasn't getting the price I wanted and I only advertised it to people I know because I really want it to be loved. Motor developed a tick now too so I think it'll need some more love before I can get a comfortable 8-10 grand for it. I'd rather keep it than sell it for nothing or let it go to some douche canoe who will ruin it or let it rot. And thanks man it's Night and day with the crossover done now.


On another note has anyone used a slave cylinder rebuild kit ?
 
https://www.rockauto.com/info/142/CE_13862005_Fro__ra_p.jpg

Managed to find the one slave i needed. I was lucky to find one on rock auto that appeared to have a way smaller mounting flange and has the exact same little heat shield mine does and appears identical. Heres to hoping itll be the one. If not its only 20.00 wasted. The local shops around here want 40$+ for the LUK one which rock auto sells for 15 canadian.. Also ordered up a new hose line from the master to the slave, a heated 02 sensor and an adapter for 1 wire o2 to 3 wire. Threw a heat sensor gun on the header and i dont think its getting nearly hot enough to produce the readings properly on the 1 wire o2 sensor.
 
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upload_2018-3-28_15-15-44.png Found this guy on ebay for about 15 bucks. way easier than buying, splicing, and adding wire to the new one. Glad they make things like this because electrical is my least favourite thing by far.
 
Did you get a flat top knuckle machined and just buy a kit for the arm and tie rod and drag link? I saw it was from NWF but I haven't look at their site yet. I'd like to do crossover on mine but I don't need a Dana 60.
 
Did you get a flat top knuckle machined and just buy a kit for the arm and tie rod and drag link? I saw it was from NWF but I haven't look at their site yet. I'd like to do crossover on mine but I don't need a Dana 60.

I was in the exact same boat. a dana 60 isnt out of the question but if i go that route itll be after ive broken my ten bolt with chromoly shafts and full circle ujoints and blah blah blah. When i first got this thing i was so hot n horny to have it on tons and 40s, then started doing lots of rust repair and other bullshit and realized i love this way to much for it to get much body damage wheeling, and a ten bolt beefed up will be more than enough for this rigs wheeling needs. I purchased the kit from NWF ( northwest fab works ) because they are only 35 minutes away from me. The kits are roughly the same price and quality as ORD but i cut out paying the shipping fees. I had to source some dana 44 flat top knuckles. I believe the ones i found were from 74? Theres a difference in the tie rod taper during certain years. I didnt pay any attention to this at the time but ended up paying for it later since i needed add a leafs for clearance. Now most leaf springs will have clearance either way, Just so happens that BDS leafs have big spring clamps and big rivets in the bottom of them so i was hooped. NWF machined the knuckle flat, drilled and tapped the holes included in the price of the kit which was nice. The 9 weeks it took for them to do it sucked but i completely understand they are not going to make a machine stop producing parts just for a knuckle to be flat topped. For you ORD would probabaly be cheaper considering its in the US but maybe NWF would be because youll gain .25 cents per dollar exchanged. The prices on their site is in USD dollars though.. so not too sure. I probabaly just got fugged for being a canuckian haha

http://www.northwestfab.com/Dana-44-Crossover-Steering-Kit-Raised-Arm-_p_91.html
 
The other thing is if you find a knuckle with the same tie rod taper as yours currently, you dont have to dissasemble an entire side of the truck, which would be kinda nice.
 
In the midst of window shopping and hating my rear drums now, has anyone ever heard of this little company or other places that sell disc brake conversions for the SF14?

https://www.littleshopmfg.com/gm-88-00-k1500-rear-disc-brakes-6-lug-11-drum/
Never seen that kit but it looks good. Seems like Eldorado style calipers.
I'm actually currently looking into a rear disk conversion using parts off of a 00'-14' Tahoe/Suburban. The 10bolts use the same brakes as the 6 lug 14bsf of that time and the SUVs got the bigger rotors, dual piston calipers, parking brakes in the hat of the rotor and should bolt up to the flange but spacing is the question. I just need to get to a pick and pull and find the parts to mock it all up.
 
In the midst of window shopping and hating my rear drums now, has anyone ever heard of this little company or other places that sell disc brake conversions for the SF14?

https://www.littleshopmfg.com/gm-88-00-k1500-rear-disc-brakes-6-lug-11-drum/

The only thing I ever hated was the loss of a decent park brake. I have yet to see a decent disc rear set-up with a decent park brake. Maybe these new drum in hat style are better, but the Edlorado style is poor at best...
 
Never seen that kit but it looks good. Seems like Eldorado style calipers.
I'm actually currently looking into a rear disk conversion using parts off of a 00'-14' Tahoe/Suburban. The 10bolts use the same brakes as the 6 lug 14bsf of that time and the SUVs got the bigger rotors, dual piston calipers, parking brakes in the hat of the rotor and should bolt up to the flange but spacing is the question. I just need to get to a pick and pull and find the parts to mock it all up.

oh thats rad! id rather piece together a kit i just didnt know if the SF ever came with disks but knowing 10 bolt pieces will work thatd be rad. So you will fab up brackets or buy them, and then use the 10 bolt rotors and calipers? i know NWF sell disk brake conversion brakets ( all weld on ) so you can choose your own spacing id assume since you could weld them anywhere

http://www.northwestfab.com/Disc-Brake-Adapters_c_511.html
 
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