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1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...

I’ve always just used old hoods and doors for patch panels. That’s my way of recycling :rotfl:

im actually bummed i just sold my spare set of fenders bacause they would have been great to use for sheet metal.
 
My 81 Jimmy I removed the old rockers leaving the cab supports. I butted 3x3 x .125" box tubing against the cab supports and welded it all solid. The top edge/corner of the box tube I set 1/8" below the sharp body line of the rocker. This landed the tube about 1/4"+ below the door edge.

I used .125" wall because I got it super cheap. I landed on them a few times in Moab and never bent them. Even thin box tubing is pretty strong...
 
My 81 Jimmy I removed the old rockers leaving the cab supports. I butted 3x3 x .125" box tubing against the cab supports and welded it all solid. The top edge/corner of the box tube I set 1/8" below the sharp body line of the rocker. This landed the tube about 1/4"+ below the door edge.

I used .125" wall because I got it super cheap. I landed on them a few times in Moab and never bent them. Even thin box tubing is pretty strong...

That seems to eliminate my concern of how to secure them to the cab supports, and also seems like it'd be plenty strong. I'm thinking more of a slim profile, so maybe 2x3 if they make it.
 
They usually have whatever you want, just a matter of coin

I like the 2” idea, less noticeable
 
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I liked the 3x3 because it was very close to the actual rocker's dimensions. If I was doing it again I would go with 4X3 to help fend stuff away from the doors.

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And proof I actually made it to Blazer Bash once. lol

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I liked the 3x3 because it was very close to the actual rocker's dimensions. If I was doing it again I would go with 4X3 to help fend stuff away from the doors.

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And proof I actually made it to Blazer Bash once. lol

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Whaaaa?
 
I liked the 3x3 because it was very close to the actual rocker's dimensions. If I was doing it again I would go with 4X3 to help fend stuff away from the doors.

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And proof I actually made it to Blazer Bash once. lol

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Yes maybe 4x3 wouldn't be a bad idea. Makes sense to keep to a bit pretruded to save the bottom of the door as a rock slider is easier to fix.. and I know you made it once and you'll go again. There's always a passenger seat in my blazer!
 
Some cold winter camping photos, one has a blazer in it.. the ol girl doesn't get frosty often anymore, at least not this winter.

Going to hopefully go box steel hunting this weekend if any shops are open. Also going to place the LMC order for the cab supports ( front and rear ) for both sides. Threw in the glass cams for the window, and also the roller and rivet replacements, since those pieces failing are what causes my rear window to fall down if I use it.

As you can tell the Blazer wheel well became the toilet paper holder and the thing to hide behind while you take a crap off site.
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@tRustyK5 I found the same thing using 3x3.

When I did mine, the scrap yard happened to have some offcuts that they pretty much gave to me.

On my 97 K1500 I used 2x4 tubing, I like how it sticks out a bit from the body.

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I used 2x4 when i did mine. I cut up to the bottom of the door still and trimmed the bottom of the door. Then welded the length of the tube to tub with the exception of the front fender. It worked well enough to lift the truck up on two wheels from the middle of the slider. I think if i were to do it again i would use 2x6 so it sticks out a bit more.


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I used 2x4 when i did mine. I cut up to the bottom of the door still and trimmed the bottom of the door. Then welded the length of the tube to tub with the exception of the front fender. It worked well enough to lift the truck up on two wheels from the middle of the slider. I think if i were to do it again i would use 2x6 so it sticks out a bit more.


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Eventually I need to do some sliders. I really don’t want to much hanging out, but obviously they need some

@mrk5 and @skunked both did similar to what’s been conversed here
How far out I guess would be the question. Maybe someone pick a point on the body line?
 
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I really enjoy the slim profile of the 2 x anything material. Like @Bent77 said, choosing a body line would be a good idea. I must say i might have a hard time cutting my new front fenders that are OE rust/dent free, but ive already cut the fangs off so i guess they are garbage anyway haha...:whistle: I also went into my back yard for the first time in a month or so and realized i have the hood from the " asstro glide " , so im going to see if i can cut the hood up for some patch panels and alleviate my need to order rockers from LMC.
 
Also looks like this hood is not going to be good for sheet metal. I'll still try to cut it up , but it seems too thick to be maluable and good for shaping all the body lines where I have to in my rockers. I'll cut it up anyway and see. Could also use it to practice some welds since it's been awhile to say the least...

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If you skin it, it’ll probably bend. May be more work than it’s worth
 
yea thats what i was thinking. So much time to skin all the structural support off of it. A 3'x3' piece of sheet metal is probably only like 20 bucks
 
Easy enough to call and find out once you match the gage (or close)
 

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