I used headliner material from jo ann fabrics to redo mine, it is the cloth foam backed stuff. It was affordable, and came out good.
CK5
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1991 V1500 "The Yeti" - NEW crate 6.0 - FIRST START!
- Thread starter jtrux
- Start date
I had forgotten about this thread.
Good to see it up and about!
Good to see it up and about!
I got this rear ac line kit for mine last year and so far it works great. https://www.autocoolingsolutions.com/ac-lines/1990-gmc-suburban-rear-ac-line
Lines are rubber with the correct fittings american made reasonable prices and lifetime warranty if not physically dammaged. Id contact them and give them your info i bet they sell what you need for your rig. Way easier to run then the factory lines and they wont rust or corrode out. My rear ac is now working great. Just my 2 cents .
My 1988 has a hydraulic clutch, and it does this too... usually on the return as you ease the pedal out. ive looked down there a few times and come to the conclusion that I need new bushings installed everywhere, and also i don't remember there being a bushing where the clevis end of the master cylinder push rod attaches to the pedal?
if it ever starts bothering me even more than it does now, i will be pulling everything out and making it better than stock. No time for that project now though.
also, ive already been through the bellhousing end of the system. I accidentally installed a "heavy duty" clutch years ago... all it did was eat hydraulics, wear out my knee, and wear out the pivot point on the clutch fork! never ever doing that again!
I could feel the worn out pivot through the pedal. The Pivot for the hydraulic set ups is replaceable, and it also is drilled and greaseable. Has a fitting for a grease gun on the bellhousing. Maybe try greasing yours?
let me know if you figure that out - if i still have the truck in 10 years, it may be rusting apart, but i intend for the clutch to be smooth by then
Clutch pedal pivot bushing is the same as the brake pedal. Which I think can still be sourced through Dorman.
As far as easy, smooth feeling clutch for a 4500 I would say you can’t beat the factory integrated slave release bearing design that came on the ‘96 and later 4500’s. No z-bar, no problem external slave or mechanical linkage. Goes together easy with an earls brake hose and two adapter fittings. Combine it with a centerforce clutch and it’s butter smooth and gets better as engine rpm increases. Plus I don’t get an overworked left leg driving it.
As far as easy, smooth feeling clutch for a 4500 I would say you can’t beat the factory integrated slave release bearing design that came on the ‘96 and later 4500’s. No z-bar, no problem external slave or mechanical linkage. Goes together easy with an earls brake hose and two adapter fittings. Combine it with a centerforce clutch and it’s butter smooth and gets better as engine rpm increases. Plus I don’t get an overworked left leg driving it.
hmmm i guess i missed that this was an nv4500. i was thinking sm465 stuff. how reliable/ long lived are the internal slaves? i would be terrified that i would have to drop the tranny to get in there!
but i have no experience with them
The internal slaves are pretty darn reliable. Similar part in my factory 5-speed S-10 has 200k of my driving without an issue.
Don’t go no name cheap on the part though. Get oem, Delco or Dorman. I got the Dorman part for my 4500.
I’ll say this all Manual trans GM trucks from ‘96 on used this setup. Even the last gm trucks to come with a manual the gmt800 versions.
I look at it this way if you screwed up a standard release bearing you would still be pulling the trans. Changing out the quick release hose connection at the integrated slave for a threaded an fitting you eliminated another possible fail point.
As an added item of reassurance Larry removed the advanced adapter bell housing and stock external slave setup on his polar bear burb for the exact setup as mine. He was not getting any consistent pedal feel with the AA bell and slave setup. He had rebuilt the pedal with new bushings and spring. Still didn’t feel right. So once he did the swap the clutch issue went away. Though he is kicking himself for not using a centerforce clutch.
Don’t go no name cheap on the part though. Get oem, Delco or Dorman. I got the Dorman part for my 4500.
I’ll say this all Manual trans GM trucks from ‘96 on used this setup. Even the last gm trucks to come with a manual the gmt800 versions.
I look at it this way if you screwed up a standard release bearing you would still be pulling the trans. Changing out the quick release hose connection at the integrated slave for a threaded an fitting you eliminated another possible fail point.
As an added item of reassurance Larry removed the advanced adapter bell housing and stock external slave setup on his polar bear burb for the exact setup as mine. He was not getting any consistent pedal feel with the AA bell and slave setup. He had rebuilt the pedal with new bushings and spring. Still didn’t feel right. So once he did the swap the clutch issue went away. Though he is kicking himself for not using a centerforce clutch.
Still kicking around engine ideas?
Martin
Martin
If it's good enough for my freightliner big rig more than 600k miles and going, it's good enough for my square
Man, what a crazy few weeks.
Its been a long time since I messed with my sub but believe me it's not been forgotten.
Back when I took it to CO I figured out that I had some electrical gremlin. I thought I fixed it and then ended up taking it to Louisiana about 2 years back and had similar issues. Well, that ended up with me being stuck in an Oreillys parking lot for many hrs swapping the dizzy (just throwing money at it at that point) which was a mother cuz i didn't have the right wrench so I modded one i had and made it work but it was still a PITA. Had to buy an overpriced timing light to get it going and still struggled to get home.
Anyways, realized when I got home I would need to dig deeper. The wiring harness that comes through the firewall and wraps ariund the back of the engine was pretty chewed up so I decided that I would eventually pull it and work on it. Well that ended up finally happening about 6 months ago. Keep in mind I did periodically drive it during this time but literally like down the block and back just to keep shit lubricated.
So I also decided at this time that I would fix just about anything else that was troubling me. Bad oil leak off back of intake, EGR is getting deleted, any connector that has been broken and Jerry rigged gets replaced, rear AC, etc.
Heres where it gets fun. I pulled the harness at my buddy's place but decided I wanted to work on it at home since it is really hard to make time to go over there with the 2 kiddos. So I went over there to pick it up and bring it home. While unloading it off my trailer I had a mishap and completely ripped my left bicep tendon right off the bone. Yay.
So I'm currently in a cast waiting for that to heal and then PT and what not to get to 100%.
But before surgery I was actually pretty mobile and managed to get the intake off and resealed, deleted EGR, started pulling rear AC lines, started pulling radiator (more on this shortly) and a few other things.
As far as the radiator is concerned I decided to go electric fans. Mostly because when it's hot AF here in STX I want tons of air flow going through my condenser.
I happen to be an acquaintance of Scotty from Tejas Steelworks so I went with his shroud which utilizes a Spectra big block radiator and Spal 13" fans so order the radiator from Rock Auto, the property stuff to mount it from LMC and the fans Scotty recommended. The shroud looks very nice so I'm really pumped to get it going.
Once the cast is off in a few weeks, I'll finish buttoning up the top end of the engine and begin replacing all the crappy wires on the harness and get that going and then I'll finish off everything with getting the new radiator installed and rear AC. I have a ski trip I'm trying to recover for in Feb and the sub will be my chariot so I will spend the better part of Nov and Dec getting it back together.
I took a few pics along the way. Nothing crazy but it proves that I've at least been working on it. Lol
Its been a long time since I messed with my sub but believe me it's not been forgotten.
Back when I took it to CO I figured out that I had some electrical gremlin. I thought I fixed it and then ended up taking it to Louisiana about 2 years back and had similar issues. Well, that ended up with me being stuck in an Oreillys parking lot for many hrs swapping the dizzy (just throwing money at it at that point) which was a mother cuz i didn't have the right wrench so I modded one i had and made it work but it was still a PITA. Had to buy an overpriced timing light to get it going and still struggled to get home.
Anyways, realized when I got home I would need to dig deeper. The wiring harness that comes through the firewall and wraps ariund the back of the engine was pretty chewed up so I decided that I would eventually pull it and work on it. Well that ended up finally happening about 6 months ago. Keep in mind I did periodically drive it during this time but literally like down the block and back just to keep shit lubricated.
So I also decided at this time that I would fix just about anything else that was troubling me. Bad oil leak off back of intake, EGR is getting deleted, any connector that has been broken and Jerry rigged gets replaced, rear AC, etc.
Heres where it gets fun. I pulled the harness at my buddy's place but decided I wanted to work on it at home since it is really hard to make time to go over there with the 2 kiddos. So I went over there to pick it up and bring it home. While unloading it off my trailer I had a mishap and completely ripped my left bicep tendon right off the bone. Yay.
So I'm currently in a cast waiting for that to heal and then PT and what not to get to 100%.
But before surgery I was actually pretty mobile and managed to get the intake off and resealed, deleted EGR, started pulling rear AC lines, started pulling radiator (more on this shortly) and a few other things.
As far as the radiator is concerned I decided to go electric fans. Mostly because when it's hot AF here in STX I want tons of air flow going through my condenser.
I happen to be an acquaintance of Scotty from Tejas Steelworks so I went with his shroud which utilizes a Spectra big block radiator and Spal 13" fans so order the radiator from Rock Auto, the property stuff to mount it from LMC and the fans Scotty recommended. The shroud looks very nice so I'm really pumped to get it going.
Once the cast is off in a few weeks, I'll finish buttoning up the top end of the engine and begin replacing all the crappy wires on the harness and get that going and then I'll finish off everything with getting the new radiator installed and rear AC. I have a ski trip I'm trying to recover for in Feb and the sub will be my chariot so I will spend the better part of Nov and Dec getting it back together.
I took a few pics along the way. Nothing crazy but it proves that I've at least been working on it. Lol
My mind changes daily. I honestly have no real issues with the TBI 350 other than lack of power. I'm inclined to put a small cam in it and be done. When i pulled the intake I realized it was a roller block so I could install one of those high dollar computer controlled cams from Comp and a set of vortec heads and probably be tickled to death.
The LMC parts came in for my big block radiator conversion. Now just gotta get this cast off so I can do some work.
One thing I've really been thinking hard about is a lift kit. I do not intend on running bigger tires or anything like that but I genuinely do not like how low the sub sits. Offroad design put together a lift for one of their shop vehicles that is a sub and it was something like 3" and overall pretty reasonable looking.
Im half tempted to call them up and have them put something together for me.
Im half tempted to call them up and have them put something together for me.
I am the opposite.
I try to keep it as low as possible with the tires I want.
My 74 sub has 33" tires with no lift and my 98 has 35" with no lift.
Great info!
I have a 2" ORD lift on my K5. Take a look at my build thread if your looking for "low" lift inspiration.
Ill take a look. Thanks
I really like the lifted trucks in skinny tires. I'm weird like that.
Oh I have skinny tires, 255/85/17
Santa came a little early for me this year.
While it certainly isn't everyone's cup of tea, I pulled the trigger on a GM crate engine yesterday.
I went back and forth on a used JY engine and at the end of the day, I wanted something with a little more oomph and I wanted new so this was my choice.
Ordered the Quick Draw bellhousing to replace my current AA one since 1. I'm not really happy with the AA one and 2. The Quick Draw will adapt my early NV to the LS perfectly. I have a buddy that runs one and the clutch linkage is also a much better design than the AA junk.
Im gonna run a factory L96 intake with flex fuel injectors and a factory Gen 3 ECM. All of that has been ordered. Oh and I'll be running DBC also.
The only thing I havent ordered are headers/manifolds. Still researching what the best option is so I'm definitely open to suggestions.
Anyways, should be a blast once it gets here. Looking forward to moving that big, white bitch around a little better.
While it certainly isn't everyone's cup of tea, I pulled the trigger on a GM crate engine yesterday.
LS364/450HP - Gen III 6.0L 24x Long Block
Check out the deal on LS364/450HP - Gen III 6.0L 24x Long Block at GM Performance Motor
www.gmperformancemotor.com
I went back and forth on a used JY engine and at the end of the day, I wanted something with a little more oomph and I wanted new so this was my choice.
Ordered the Quick Draw bellhousing to replace my current AA one since 1. I'm not really happy with the AA one and 2. The Quick Draw will adapt my early NV to the LS perfectly. I have a buddy that runs one and the clutch linkage is also a much better design than the AA junk.
Im gonna run a factory L96 intake with flex fuel injectors and a factory Gen 3 ECM. All of that has been ordered. Oh and I'll be running DBC also.
The only thing I havent ordered are headers/manifolds. Still researching what the best option is so I'm definitely open to suggestions.
Anyways, should be a blast once it gets here. Looking forward to moving that big, white bitch around a little better.
