Maybe it moved while you wiggled / removed trans.
CK5
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2004 Silverado Crew Cab Solid Axle Swap (LLY with ZF 6 speed)
- Thread starter r3dd0g
- Start date
To many horse torques
That's the only thing that makes sense, but even that doesn't really make sense. 1200 ft-lb clutch would take 600 ft-lbs to move one of those disks so it should have been clamped pretty tight.
Transfer case, crossmember, all the under truck wiring/plumbing is done (other than the front driveshaft). We're struggling with the wiring harness, we have so many aftermarket parts and new parts that things don't look like the pictures. The new cold pipe is going to hit the passenger side shock tower so that will need some "adjustment" to fit properly.
Hopefully we'll fire it up tomorrow.
Hopefully we'll fire it up tomorrow.
It runs!
It also leaks coolant, brake fluid from the clutch slave and fuel from one of the return lines...
I fixed the fuel leak. I replaced the leaking hose for the coolant leak (It was already new) and it still leaks??? I'm not sue if I have to replace the entire slave cylinder to fix the leak at the quick disconnect, but that would be fun to pull the trans again...
I also tore the turbo to hot pipe coupler which I can't seem to find anywhere quickly (2.375" - 3").
Good times.
It also leaks coolant, brake fluid from the clutch slave and fuel from one of the return lines...
I fixed the fuel leak. I replaced the leaking hose for the coolant leak (It was already new) and it still leaks??? I'm not sue if I have to replace the entire slave cylinder to fix the leak at the quick disconnect, but that would be fun to pull the trans again...
I also tore the turbo to hot pipe coupler which I can't seem to find anywhere quickly (2.375" - 3").
Good times.
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It runs!
Today went better! Thankfully I live down the street from SDHQ. I believe they have the largest inventory of offroad and racing stuff anywhere in the country. I was able to get the silicone coupler I needed (couldn't find one online that wasn't a week + out), plus some silicone heater hose. They had a half track out front, which is new and awesome!
The coolant leak ended up not being the hose, but an o-ring on a fitting right above the hose. I got that swapped out and no more leaks!
One of the connectors on top of the injector for the return lines broke, that was my fuel leak. I pulled one of them off the old return lines and repaired that.
The clutch leak was coming from the quick disconnect at the master cylinder. I pulled it apart and realized that the o-ring fell off when I had it apart. A new o-ring there and the clutch leak was fixed, I thought I was going to have to drop the tranny to swap the slave cylinder, so that was a lucky break.
Here's everything back together.
You can see in that picture that my new coupler (at the turbo) slipped a bit. That's an issue I've been fighting since I put the bigger AFE hot pipe on. I even used hairspray... The issue is that it slips enough that it hits the brake master cylinder and rattles. I'll mess with it some more and see if I can get it clamped tighter, I just zipped it on with the impact so it's probably not tight enough.
The only thing left to do after the test drive was to do the test burnout.
Those Nitto's get really sticky so I've got some cool decorations on my driveway now
.
We took it for a test drive and realized very quickly that I forgot to tighten up one of the clamps on the hot side intercooler tube. Once that was fixed we took it out for a nice test drive with no issues.
The coolant leak ended up not being the hose, but an o-ring on a fitting right above the hose. I got that swapped out and no more leaks!
One of the connectors on top of the injector for the return lines broke, that was my fuel leak. I pulled one of them off the old return lines and repaired that.
The clutch leak was coming from the quick disconnect at the master cylinder. I pulled it apart and realized that the o-ring fell off when I had it apart. A new o-ring there and the clutch leak was fixed, I thought I was going to have to drop the tranny to swap the slave cylinder, so that was a lucky break.
Here's everything back together.
You can see in that picture that my new coupler (at the turbo) slipped a bit. That's an issue I've been fighting since I put the bigger AFE hot pipe on. I even used hairspray... The issue is that it slips enough that it hits the brake master cylinder and rattles. I'll mess with it some more and see if I can get it clamped tighter, I just zipped it on with the impact so it's probably not tight enough.
The only thing left to do after the test drive was to do the test burnout.
Those Nitto's get really sticky so I've got some cool decorations on my driveway now
.We took it for a test drive and realized very quickly that I forgot to tighten up one of the clamps on the hot side intercooler tube. Once that was fixed we took it out for a nice test drive with no issues.
That has to feel good! Awesome!Today went better! Thankfully I live down the street from SDHQ. I believe they have the largest inventory of offroad and racing stuff anywhere in the country. I was able to get the silicone coupler I needed (couldn't find one online that wasn't a week + out), plus some silicone heater hose. They had a half track out front, which is new and awesome!
The coolant leak ended up not being the hose, but an o-ring on a fitting right above the hose. I got that swapped out and no more leaks!
One of the connectors on top of the injector for the return lines broke, that was my fuel leak. I pulled one of them off the old return lines and repaired that.
The clutch leak was coming from the quick disconnect at the master cylinder. I pulled it apart and realized that the o-ring fell off when I had it apart. A new o-ring there and the clutch leak was fixed, I thought I was going to have to drop the tranny to swap the slave cylinder, so that was a lucky break.
Here's everything back together.
You can see in that picture that my new coupler (at the turbo) slipped a bit. That's an issue I've been fighting since I put the bigger AFE hot pipe on. I even used hairspray... The issue is that it slips enough that it hits the brake master cylinder and rattles. I'll mess with it some more and see if I can get it clamped tighter, I just zipped it on with the impact so it's probably not tight enough.
The only thing left to do after the test drive was to do the test burnout.
Those Nitto's get really sticky so I've got some cool decorations on my driveway now
We took it for a test drive and realized very quickly that I forgot to tighten up one of the clamps on the hot side intercooler tube. Once that was fixed we took it out for a nice test drive with no issues.
So the new turbo works well?Today went better! Thankfully I live down the street from SDHQ. I believe they have the largest inventory of offroad and racing stuff anywhere in the country. I was able to get the silicone coupler I needed (couldn't find one online that wasn't a week + out), plus some silicone heater hose. They had a half track out front, which is new and awesome!
The coolant leak ended up not being the hose, but an o-ring on a fitting right above the hose. I got that swapped out and no more leaks!
One of the connectors on top of the injector for the return lines broke, that was my fuel leak. I pulled one of them off the old return lines and repaired that.
The clutch leak was coming from the quick disconnect at the master cylinder. I pulled it apart and realized that the o-ring fell off when I had it apart. A new o-ring there and the clutch leak was fixed, I thought I was going to have to drop the tranny to swap the slave cylinder, so that was a lucky break.
Here's everything back together.
You can see in that picture that my new coupler (at the turbo) slipped a bit. That's an issue I've been fighting since I put the bigger AFE hot pipe on. I even used hairspray... The issue is that it slips enough that it hits the brake master cylinder and rattles. I'll mess with it some more and see if I can get it clamped tighter, I just zipped it on with the impact so it's probably not tight enough.
The only thing left to do after the test drive was to do the test burnout.
Those Nitto's get really sticky so I've got some cool decorations on my driveway now
We took it for a test drive and realized very quickly that I forgot to tighten up one of the clamps on the hot side intercooler tube. Once that was fixed we took it out for a nice test drive with no issues.
It's not a new turbo, just rebuilt with a new compressor wheel. It does smoke less on the higher power levels, and it seems to spool up a bit quicker.
While I had it apart I added a second EGT probe to the drivers side manifold, something doesn't seem right though as it's reading 100° higher than the passenger one at idle and goes absolutely crazy when I hit the throttle (3-400° higher than the passenger side). I didn't do too many hard pulls as I want to figure out what's going on there.
The injectors are way quieter for sure which is nice, the turbo is louder which is also nice. I was hoping this would be pushing enough air that I wouldn't roll coal on the higher levels, but it still does, I hate that crap so I just won't use those very often. I need to install my autometer gauge into the drivers side manifold just for a sanity check.
While I had it apart I added a second EGT probe to the drivers side manifold, something doesn't seem right though as it's reading 100° higher than the passenger one at idle and goes absolutely crazy when I hit the throttle (3-400° higher than the passenger side). I didn't do too many hard pulls as I want to figure out what's going on there.
The injectors are way quieter for sure which is nice, the turbo is louder which is also nice. I was hoping this would be pushing enough air that I wouldn't roll coal on the higher levels, but it still does, I hate that crap so I just won't use those very often. I need to install my autometer gauge into the drivers side manifold just for a sanity check.
I was just going to say swap sides on your gauges and see if the inconsistency follows
I don’t know how the piping runs but if the driver side is more restricted than the passenger side then the higher egt’s make sense.
Smoking on the higher levels is a tune thing. Takes a lot of work to burn clean but it can be done.
Smoking on the higher levels is a tune thing. Takes a lot of work to burn clean but it can be done.
It was more restricted, but I put in a different drivers side manifold to fix that.
Smoking means too much fuel and not enough air. It only smokes at lower RPMs before the turbo is fully spooled so I was hoping the bigger intercooler, new compressor wheel and a few other mods would fix that. They certainly help, but not enough to completely get rid of it. I know I could pay a ton of money to have it tuned better, but it's hard to find a tuner right now and I don't really want to spend that money.
I should just buy EFI Live and learn it myself, but I haven't made that jump yet.
I had also thought of that and will probably do that first. In case it wasn't clear, the drivers side is showing 16-1800F on a hard pull, way higher than I think it could possibly be.
Now for my next dilemma. The fan clutch.
- I had the stock fan clutch on this truck until September 2019, it worked flawlessly until it didn't (stopped locking up reliably). I replaced it with a NAPA one because I was out of town and that's what I could get, it had the opposite problem, it was almost always locked up and noisy.
- I ordered a AC Delco unit and ran that one until August 2020 when it locked up, I replaced it again with an AC Delco unit.
- August 2021, second AC Delco unit stops locking up. I shot some e-mails back and forth with @Stephen and he recommended a Hayden unit. I think the part number he gave me was for the Kodiak version which locks up quicker, but I just went for the stock replacement unit which worked great for a few months and about 5000 miles and it stopped locking up too.
- After doing a bit more research I figured out that the AC Delco unit isn't actually the factory replacement, you have to get that one directly from a GM dealer. I ordered an OEM fan clutch from GM Parts Giant and installed it, it was locked up right out of the box and unlocked like normal. Getting it to ever lock up again was a challenge, I discovered if I'd wait until coolant temps hit 225 and pulled over to let it idle and heat soak the clutch it would lock up and I could drive for a bit (It would unlock again between 205 and 215). I tried to return the part and get it replaced since it was bad out of the box, but GM Parts Giant told me I had to take it to a dealer to have them diagnose the issue. This would likely cost almost as much as the fan clutch itself, so I submitted a credit card dispute instead.
As a precaution, I replaced the coolant temp sender to make sure I wasn't getting a bad reading. This did not change anything, the reality is the clutch should be locked up when I start it since it would have heat soaked after shutting it down, this never happens.
I'm getting ready to order another OEM Factory fan clutch from a different distributor, but do any of you guys have any thoughts? The OEM fan clutch lasted 15 years but I can't get another one to last more than a year.
I've thought of converting to an electric fan clutch like they have on more modern Duramax trucks but then I'd have to figure out how to activate it too.
What are your thoughts? I'm running out of ideas, I just want a fan that's quiet on the trails but locks up when I'm pulling a trailer up a hill.
- I had the stock fan clutch on this truck until September 2019, it worked flawlessly until it didn't (stopped locking up reliably). I replaced it with a NAPA one because I was out of town and that's what I could get, it had the opposite problem, it was almost always locked up and noisy.
- I ordered a AC Delco unit and ran that one until August 2020 when it locked up, I replaced it again with an AC Delco unit.
- August 2021, second AC Delco unit stops locking up. I shot some e-mails back and forth with @Stephen and he recommended a Hayden unit. I think the part number he gave me was for the Kodiak version which locks up quicker, but I just went for the stock replacement unit which worked great for a few months and about 5000 miles and it stopped locking up too.
- After doing a bit more research I figured out that the AC Delco unit isn't actually the factory replacement, you have to get that one directly from a GM dealer. I ordered an OEM fan clutch from GM Parts Giant and installed it, it was locked up right out of the box and unlocked like normal. Getting it to ever lock up again was a challenge, I discovered if I'd wait until coolant temps hit 225 and pulled over to let it idle and heat soak the clutch it would lock up and I could drive for a bit (It would unlock again between 205 and 215). I tried to return the part and get it replaced since it was bad out of the box, but GM Parts Giant told me I had to take it to a dealer to have them diagnose the issue. This would likely cost almost as much as the fan clutch itself, so I submitted a credit card dispute instead.
As a precaution, I replaced the coolant temp sender to make sure I wasn't getting a bad reading. This did not change anything, the reality is the clutch should be locked up when I start it since it would have heat soaked after shutting it down, this never happens.
I'm getting ready to order another OEM Factory fan clutch from a different distributor, but do any of you guys have any thoughts? The OEM fan clutch lasted 15 years but I can't get another one to last more than a year.
I've thought of converting to an electric fan clutch like they have on more modern Duramax trucks but then I'd have to figure out how to activate it too.
What are your thoughts? I'm running out of ideas, I just want a fan that's quiet on the trails but locks up when I'm pulling a trailer up a hill.
What is your thoughts on electric fans?
That they won't keep it cool enough while towing. I've already looked at several kits and they all say "for drag racing or pulling only, not for towing".
Damn, I just went out to the shop and there's a puddle of coolant under the truck...
OK, that was no big deal, I pressurized it to 15psi and realized there was a loose hose clamp (I can blame Amber for this one, she installed that hose ).
The hot pipe coupler hose clamps were also not tightened enough so that probably won't be a problem anymore either.
).The hot pipe coupler hose clamps were also not tightened enough so that probably won't be a problem anymore either.
