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2wd 02' burb to 4wd?

That would ideally be correct. supersize can tell you a bit about converting a 2wd to 4wd.
 
241's are cheaper and easy to find too. I am under the impression they are actually very strong. I'm only running 33"'s and nothing too serious I would imagine. Probably not a bad suggestion. What do think the advantages are of running the 241 vrs 205?
 
Lighter weight, lower low range gearing, less parasitic drag, availability of parts and replacements, and also aftermarket upgrades like 4:1 kits and SYE kits.
 
Well such good advice I just brought home an np241c from the junk yard. Came out of a 92 3/4ton with a 4l80. Got the tcase, tcase adapter, cross member and skid plate for 150! I think the tcase has alot of slop so I plan to open it up soon and see what she needs.
 
I would like to identify the D60 I picked up. Can anyone help me? I don't know if I should even use this axle because it has a CAD. Thanks guy's

Dana60id_zps46c1916e.jpg
 
that pic is 100% what ya need. its got the dodge # and the dana BOM # on that tag . lots of times these are M.I.A

also 3.54 gears :whistle:

if never heavy off road slam bam / jumping then CAD be o.k. but weak link to break if massive abuse planed.

there is a posi lock to replace the vac unit on the cad . or aftermarket 1 peice shaft and cover plate for nothing in there.

bom coming back to 98-98.5 dana 60 from 3500 dodge truck .
 
sweetk30 said:
that pic is 100% what ya need. its got the dodge # and the dana BOM # on that tag . lots of times these are M.I.A

also 3.54 gears :whistle:

if never heavy off road slam bam / jumping then CAD be o.k. but weak link to break if massive abuse planed.

there is a posi lock to replace the vac unit on the cad . or aftermarket 1 peice shaft and cover plate for nothing in there.

bom coming back to 98-98.5 dana 60 from 3500 dodge truck .
Click to expand...


I am interested in the one piece axle kit. Any links to such? I have seen the posi lock unit but I am concerned as to whether this will be as reliable as selectable hubs. If I install a one piece axle is the axle always locked?
 
This is a cool project. I'm curious how you tied the rear of your new panels in. A Dodge D60 may not be a rockcrawler's 1st choice, but it still sounds stronger than the stock IFS to me. Another plus for the 241 is that there were mechanical speedo (1989 only) and VSS options for it. But I think your 2001 engine will need a VSS signal for basic operation and also shifting (not to mention cruise control, etc.). Going mechanical would be a big can of worms, requiring a transmission controller, etc. etc.

If the transmission VSS is still there the stock speedo and everything should still work. It sounds like you are eliminating the wheel speed sensors, so in that respect the PCM might be OK not knowing you are in low range - it will just think you are going 2.7x as fast as you really are and the speedo will be wrong. But how will you fake out the ABS/traction control?
 
The VSS in the stocl 4l80 2x4 tranny won't be touched. Everything remains 100% o.e. and the trransfer case is all mechanical :D

As for ABS I think I'm screwed as I don't think it would be possible to make it work with the new axle.

As for the sheet metal I formed the the skins and welded them in.
 
ya know after looking at what I see on the other postings and the weaknesses of this axle I think I will better off just dropping the 1500 on a ford axle in better shape. Any thoughts?
 
If you have the money, why not run better equipment? Depends entierly on your wallet. You know the $1500 axle will be better/stronger than the dodge one. So can you afford it vs. Do you need it.
 
I have the dodge unit but it needs a full going through and upgrades / changes. I'm thinking I spend 2-400 on just the spindles/hubs? What else could cost a bunch I'm not thinking of?

I won't be doing anything too extreme either. It's my tow/camp rig and it's a suburban for crying out load. It's never going through the ringer like some of you guys with yur k5's
 
I'm just saying that if you are in low range, the speedo will read 52MPH, but the wheel speed sensors will read 20MPH, which could upset something and store a code. For transmission shifting purposes that's probably fine. Maybe you can live with no ABS in low range - it doesn't seem like a big problem. You would probably have to cycle the power to the rig to reset it once you're back in HI. The real question is what happens if you don't have ABS. What do you have to have programmed out of the PCM or BCM?
 
Blue85 said:
This is a cool project. I'm curious how you tied the rear of your new panels in. A Dodge D60 may not be a rockcrawler's 1st choice, but it still sounds stronger than the stock IFS to me. Another plus for the 241 is that there were mechanical speedo (1989 only) and VSS options for it. But I think your 2001 engine will need a VSS signal for basic operation and also shifting (not to mention cruise control, etc.). Going mechanical would be a big can of worms, requiring a transmission controller, etc. etc.

If the transmission VSS is still there the stock speedo and everything should still work. It sounds like you are eliminating the wheel speed sensors, so in that respect the PCM might be OK not knowing you are in low range - it will just think you are going 2.7x as fast as you really are and the speedo will be wrong. But how will you fake out the ABS/traction control?
Click to expand...



Ya know I kinda am figurin it out as I go. Ya make a good point sir :doah:
I think I read of another similar set-up and they left the wheels speed sensors literally zip tied to the replacement axle. It aont grand it may work. Any thoughts or ideas? I knida wondered if I could use the sensors on the replacement axle. Whatca think?
 
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