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3/4 Ton Swap is DONE: **d-shaft question**

Just checked all four of my stock trucks, his shocks are upside down. Yes it will make a difference, the valving has to different for upstroke and down stroke. How much? I don't know.
 
FOR MUD said:
24 pages and 238 posts, just for putting in a rear diff:eek1: And it's still not right! I can't wait till the front!!!!It's got steering!!!!!!!!:D

Read some more buddy...it's done correctly.


mr.smartass said:
This shock thing is freaking me out! I've been searching and can't find anything definate! Looking at pics it's about 50/50 clearly this isn't as common knowledge as some may think... I'm calling some body. The directions don't tell you... :doah:
EXACTLY...trust me I've worked with shocks for years and unless they are completely different on fullsize rigs then I think this is all BS. Sort of like don't go swimming after eating...
So some of you are throwing out some fancy terms but honestly there isn't any difference...the piston will go through the same part of the body at the same stroke length regardless of whether it's upside down or right side up.
Either the body is pushing around the shaft or the shaft is pushing into the body...either way it's the same thing.

Anyone have a clear answer on this? I'm open...I'm not saying that someone is wrong...I just don't think it matters.

EDIT: I just saw ForMud's post and it has the first thing that makes sense...so the valving is different for the up stroke vs. the down stroke...that has some logic behind it.
 
Avery4jc said:
EDIT: I just saw ForMud's post and it has the first thing that makes sense...so the valving is different for the up stroke vs. the down stroke...that has some logic behind it.

I am pretty sure I said the same ****ing thing I think you need to learn to ****ing read Avery:mad:.

Look for a diagram of a rebuildable shock and you will see why it makes a difference.

Ira
 
Avery4jc said:
EXACTLY...trust me I've worked with shocks for years and unless they are completely different on fullsize rigs then I think this is all BS. Sort of like don't go swimming after eating...
for years huh? :haha: son, i've rebuilt more shocks than you've ever looked at, guaranteed. they're upsidedown. saying that the valving is the same either way they're mounted is like saying that a glass will hold just as much water upsidedown as it will right side up.
So some of you are throwing out some fancy terms but honestly there isn't any difference...the piston will go through the same part of the body at the same stroke length regardless of whether it's upside down or right side up.
yes, but they're deigned to be installed one way. there is air inside that shock (obviously more now that yours have leaked out), and mounting them upside down gets in into the valves, which will cause foaming of the oil, which will in turn cause erratic performance of the shock. since you never fully compress your shocks, they never get to this air pocket when installed correctly. this isnt R/C car technology we're talking about (which im assuming is where your "years" of shock experience is from), we're talking real weight, and a correctly speced shock, installed correctly will make a BIG difference in the handling characteristics of your truck.

you said yourself that they were leaking, so now you know what your next project is. :deal:
 
when your truck was built in the 80s (like his truck obviously was), those stickers are LOOOONG gone by now.
 
beater_k20 said:
so now you know what your next project is. :deal:

Yep...bling bling...:D
specs2.jpg






beater_k20 said:
when your truck was built in the 80s (like his truck obviously was), those stickers are LOOOONG gone by now.

So you really think that these were the original shocks? Theres no way the stroke would be long enough with this much lift...



Ok guys...just for kicks here's an update from the last hour...
Got the front driveshaft out...
picture063.jpg


Then I got the front truss/skid off...stupid Rhino one...
picture061.jpg


Then started yanking stuff out...
picture060.jpg

picture062.jpg

picture064.jpg



I'll be back later with more pics...
 
Well, I switched my shocks around -- and it did make a big difference in how my front end handles. Before it was a fair bit more bouncy, far more sturdy now.

Back end had Top and Bottom punched into it, so they were right :D
 
Avery4jc said:
So you really think that these were the original shocks? Theres no way the stroke would be long enough with this much lift...

no, but they were probably installed back in the 80s with the lift.

your truck SCREAMS 80s... axle truss/skid... 8" of lift... shock boots... 38" tires on 1/2 tons with stock gears...
 
beater_k20 said:
no, but they were probably installed back in the 80s with the lift.

your truck SCREAMS 80s... axle truss/skid... 8" of lift... shock boots... 38" tires on 1/2 tons with stock gears...

nope the kid here in town that I bought it from did the lift a couple years ago...but yeah the truck did scream 80's before I got to it...

Ok guys I'm stuck...

I got the sway bar out...
picture065.jpg

picture066.jpg



Then I took the pin out and took the nut off...
picture068.jpg


But now it won't come apart...it should just slide out but it's not budging...I tried to just lower the axle down but it didn't work so I jacked it back up...how do you get these apart?
picture067.jpg
 
I don't mean any disrespect but.....why do people make posts ask questions then don't listen????????????????????? Or argue with peoples replies????
 
put the castle nut back on partially (enough to not ruin the threads) and hit it with the hammer, it will come out
 
86454K30 said:
I don't mean any disrespect but.....why do people make posts ask questions then don't listen????????????????????? Or argue with peoples replies????
Oh...no no no...I wasn't arguing or disrespecing what he said...I was just saying that if the only way to get it off was to go buy a little wedged fork to slide in there I'll just go beat on it...
He answered my question.
;)

Oh and thanks James...I'll go try it right now.
 

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