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3/4 Ton Swap is DONE: **d-shaft question**

Avery4jc said:
Thanks for the support buddy...I've been reading up on some old threads...doesn't look like there is a specific way to get it off other than take the bolts off (which I did tonight...the three on top) and then take your pick...either hit it with the hot wrench, smash it with a BFH, pry it off, etc....any suggestions or are you just going to sit back and laugh?
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i'll sit back and laugh for now. apparently you missed this post....
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1801541&postcount=265


...plus I'd have to track down a flat top knuckle and have it machined
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dont you work in a machine shop?
...but for now I need to get this done and get new tires and get the tranny rebuilt since I smoked it going to Pismo.
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when you 'smoke' a tranny you wont be doing 80 down the freeway. ever thought of a little preventative maintnance? change the filter and gasket on the pan, maybe make sure your TV cable is adjusted properly. what color is the fluid? if it isnt 'red' anymore, maybe it'd be a good time to change it to get a little more life out of the trans.
 
hes got a point, avery. u ever thought about rebuilding the trans urself? that would be a good learning experience for you. i havent done it but id like to buy one from a junkyard and rebuild it and then build it. im lookin for a NP 241 here shortly and doing a SYE and 1350 yokes on it. and deff do the tires last.
 
Yeah I work at a machine shop and could do it but I'd still have to track down the knuckle...I don't know though...I don't know enough about x-over to talk about it now...

As far as the tranny goes though I have done some work to it to try and save it...I flushed it and changed the fluid twice along with replacing the filter...it just slips badly and has a hard time getting up to speed...once it's there she's fine but getting there is a chore...especially now that I have lower gears it's having to actually shift through the gears...

As far as the dropped draglink goes I must not know the names properly...ok here goes the steering for dummies...
Power Steering box----->straight plate----->long bent rod---->raised steering arm...

Oh and lastly Iwaxmyjimmy doing the tires last is def. not a good idea...my rear tires are basically bald which WILL cause problems unlike a somewhat slipping tranny...
 
u can roll on bold tires espcially them b/c they have a fair amount of tread/plys to do so. ur tranny is most important right now.
 
Avery4jc said:
As far as the dropped draglink goes I must not know the names properly...ok here goes the steering for dummies...
Power Steering box----->straight plate----->long bent rod---->raised steering arm...
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PS box > pitman arm > drop draglink > raised steering arm
 
dropped draglinks suck. at least get a dropped steering arm. the raised steering arm on the old axle should come off easier then the stock arm. start working on that one first. I always find it easier to take the arms off if that end of the axle is torn down. take the rotor and backing plate off. it gives you a lot more room to work.
 
damn it at first i felt bad for avery and i guess i still do but you guys telling him to do stuff that he knows nothing about is just comedy. This is begining to be one of m favorite threads. I belive i just read that some one wants him to try to rebuild his own trans?!? that would be a catastrphuck! He would not be able to drive his truck for months. I personaly have done a few of them, but for someone like avry who would probbly have a tough time even getting it out of the truck, that sugestion is just funny. Are you guys just trying to con him into doing stuff? if so keep it up it certainly is entertaining.
 
what's holding it on still? just rust?
oh and you said get a dropped steering arm...did you mean a dropped pitman arm?

Do you guys think for now since I'll be doing X-over in a little while I could just leave the other steering arm on there and go get a dropped pitman arm? So instead of a dropped drag link and a raised steering arm I'd have a dropped pitman and draglink with a stock steering arm...
Would that work?
 
yes I meant pitman arm. the problem with doing it your way is that the dropped pitman arm is only a 2" correction. really you should have both arms and a straight draglink.

don't try and get out of swapping those steering arms. it just take patience, lube and a BFH. I had a friend beat on one for days. Then I came over with a 40 oz. dead blow and had it off in 10 minutes. He was pissed.:rolleyes:

take the nuts off both arms and soak them with wd-40 or pblaster. walk away. repeat several times.

when you hit the arm start at the back and hit it parallel to the ground. if you can get the back washer to pop then fight gets a lot easier. have a set of vice grips or pliers to pull the cone washers out with. I also try spinning the cone washer with a punch to get them to break free.

put a small punch in the slot in the washer and try and hammer it around the stud. anything to break the friction hold it has.

Good luck. Post pics of your frustration.
 
Well I may not have too much frustration...I just got back from dropping my front tires and new rims off at the tire shop to get them swapped over (wishfull thinking that I'll be done today, lol) and while I was there I mentioned the steering arm since they do tires/brakes/basically anything front end he said...and to my surprise he said he'd have to give me a price quote after he let his mechanic take a look at them but that they could do it...
So although I'm sure you all would like to see me do this I think that might be a better route.

I'll keep y'all posted.
 
Avery4jc said:
Well I may not have too much frustration...I just got back from dropping my front tires and new rims off at the tire shop to get them swapped over (wishfull thinking that I'll be done today, lol) and while I was there I mentioned the steering arm since they do tires/brakes/basically anything front end he said...and to my surprise he said he'd have to give me a price quote after he let his mechanic take a look at them but that they could do it...
So although I'm sure you all would like to see me do this I think that might be a better route.

I'll keep y'all posted.
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Try WD40 & the BFH first, sometimes you get lucky and they pop off after a few good whacks. Someone mentioned using a chisel to rotate the cone washers, I wouldn't recommend it. You don't want to know how much those little cone washers cost from GM. Use a punch or something with a flat tip so you don't make hamburger out of them. I've had good luck with the WD40 bath, heat with smokewrench, then BFH method.
 
congratulations. you haven't even tried and you are already giving up.:doah:


start with the raised arm like I said. it should not be that hard since it has not been on there forever. If you can't get it off then have someone else do it. If it comes off easy you just saved yourself money.

then attempt the stock arm. if that doesn't come off all you have to do is have the shop remove it and install the lifted arm you took yourself.
 
this thread is everything a sticky is not.






can you believe it has more post's then "how will my truck look on xx tires and xx lift"
 
gmc4cw said:
can you believe it has more post's then "how will my truck look on xx tires and xx lift"
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technically it doesnt, since there have been countless threads starter about "will my truck fit XX tires with XX lift?" take those into consideration, and you've surpassed this thread. however, the concentrated level of "i havent got a clue" is far greater here.
 
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