CK5
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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
Known Adam for too long.
Pick a cam yet? Specs?
Oh yeah, guess I left that little detail out…
A little back history of our conversations…
I wanted to keep the Hooker sidemount headers, so raised port heads wouldnt work. These headers are 1-7/8 od tubes and are a tight fit as is. No room to move them around with solid mounts on the engine. Most of Darts long blocks come with raised port heads. Therefore we took to piecing this combo together.
Darts Pro1 head description…
“Serious street performance, modified oval track and bracket racing. Mid-range to 7,000 RPM. Best for 400+ cubic inch engines. Dart PRO1 23* 215cc Platinum series heads are for big cubic inch, high RPM applications which favor peak power over low end flexibility. Long wearing Bronze valve guides, screw-in studs, multi-angle intake seats with hardened, radiused exhaust seats are standard. Best of all, our precision cast ports produce outstanding airflow without time consuming porting. Assemblies include Stainless Steel valves, premium springs, locks, retainers, studs, guide plates and seals.”
They come with premium pieces, but I paid the little difference to have Heath spec the heads as an unassembled kit with upgraded titanium retainers, 10* locks and stronger springs for this cam.
The cam…
Howards hydraulic roller.
Lift: .600 / .600, Duration @ .050: 243 / 249, 112 LSA. Heath spec’d this cam with a wider LSA to improve street manners down low helping the FI system work better, and make power mid to upper rpm-2800-7000. Shooting for the softer bottom end to help the rear diff on launches, and get the car rolling before cranking in the powerband.
Will also be using Howards short travel hydraulic lifters to accommodate the 7000 rpm if needed.
A little back history of our conversations…
I wanted to keep the Hooker sidemount headers, so raised port heads wouldnt work. These headers are 1-7/8 od tubes and are a tight fit as is. No room to move them around with solid mounts on the engine. Most of Darts long blocks come with raised port heads. Therefore we took to piecing this combo together.
Darts Pro1 head description…
“Serious street performance, modified oval track and bracket racing. Mid-range to 7,000 RPM. Best for 400+ cubic inch engines. Dart PRO1 23* 215cc Platinum series heads are for big cubic inch, high RPM applications which favor peak power over low end flexibility. Long wearing Bronze valve guides, screw-in studs, multi-angle intake seats with hardened, radiused exhaust seats are standard. Best of all, our precision cast ports produce outstanding airflow without time consuming porting. Assemblies include Stainless Steel valves, premium springs, locks, retainers, studs, guide plates and seals.”
They come with premium pieces, but I paid the little difference to have Heath spec the heads as an unassembled kit with upgraded titanium retainers, 10* locks and stronger springs for this cam.
The cam…
Howards hydraulic roller.
Lift: .600 / .600, Duration @ .050: 243 / 249, 112 LSA. Heath spec’d this cam with a wider LSA to improve street manners down low helping the FI system work better, and make power mid to upper rpm-2800-7000. Shooting for the softer bottom end to help the rear diff on launches, and get the car rolling before cranking in the powerband.
Will also be using Howards short travel hydraulic lifters to accommodate the 7000 rpm if needed.
All I know is you used "bung" in a sentence. Giggity
Heath has all the parts, and I’ll be headed there on the 17th. We (Heath) hope to get the heads assembled, and a short list of other things done before loading it all up and heading back to the Flyin Rat Garage.
I’m still pretty limited on use of my right shoulder, so I gotta be careful not to screw that up!
I’m still pretty limited on use of my right shoulder, so I gotta be careful not to screw that up!
Sooo, finish around noon on the 17th?
Yep, should make quick work of it. Taking my engine machining tools along for resurfacing the heads and block.
@folkenheath should have them brought in from sitting outside in the wheelbarrow before I get there!
Stay tuned!
@folkenheath should have them brought in from sitting outside in the wheelbarrow before I get there!
Stay tuned!
So I need to drill a hole for the O2 bung.
It says to have the sensor at an angle of 10* up.
Does it matter if its below centerline of the collector as in the yellow highlight, or does it need to be centered as in the red highlight? I don’t see where if would matter, but the yellow line would give me better clearance of the body and entry point to the frame.
NOTE..Header is not in the installed postion in this pic. It would be up maybe 1-1/2 to 2” at the end of the collector.
It says to have the sensor at an angle of 10* up.
Does it matter if its below centerline of the collector as in the yellow highlight, or does it need to be centered as in the red highlight? I don’t see where if would matter, but the yellow line would give me better clearance of the body and entry point to the frame.
NOTE..Header is not in the installed postion in this pic. It would be up maybe 1-1/2 to 2” at the end of the collector.
Ideally it would be centered, however, you could probably offset it a 1/4" or something in a large collector without a problem. But if you go much more than that, since the threaded bung is somewhat short, you will start to have issues with the threads unless you can find a longer bung. However, you don't want to get the sensor too far out either or it may not have the fastest response.
This one is curved a little, you could possibly curve it the same amount or less but just offset to one side...but I wouldn't go much.
This one is curved a little, you could possibly curve it the same amount or less but just offset to one side...but I wouldn't go much.
Header O2 position marked. Loaded in the truck. Didn’t drill a hole, not sure how far down on the collector we’ll be able to go until we get the right bung for the job.
Isn't 10 degrees up the minimum? I believe the idea is to keep condensation from pooling on it. If you went above your red line, would that allow more clearance for the sensor between the side rail and the frame?
good thought ….however, there is a “birdcage” that sits on body mounts on the frame. It’s about a fingers width between the frame and the birdcage. I tried to highlight in the pic where the birdcage surrounds the frame. And the fact that the header sits outside of that birdcage and the body rocker panel would make a difficult install and still have it serviceable without removing the header.
Moving the sensor lower on the side of the collector gives a better angle to go through the frame and stay below that birdcage.
Moving the sensor lower on the side of the collector gives a better angle to go through the frame and stay below that birdcage.
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