Damn Dave, that is absolutely gorgeous...
CK5
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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
Thanks for the comps guys....I think this car has so much cool stuff in it...man the cars had personality back then...
A new dizzy was in order anyway, I don't have a tach issue...I've tried a mallory unilite/ high rpm points (the best results) and now a Petronix unit in this dist, and the timing is all over the place now...only 14* mech advance, and it bounces alot at about 3000rpm...I've played with weights, springs, bushings, shims, and I'm done fockin with it....It's going in a box of old Vette parts on the shelf in the shop.
The New MSD will allow vac advance (I agree its a good thing to run on the street) or I can also lock it out. The mechanical option for tach drive is only available from MSD, and I will stick with my stock tach...just too cool with the bent needles and 6500 redline....it was the hot setup in 64 ya know!
The ign box is set at 6800 for rev protection, so I'm not worried about over revving a non perfect tach...it suffices fine for my need, I'm not racing on a regular basis, so its the piece to have for this ride!
I've contacted a gal about a NIB 700dp (4778C) , waiting on a return email to look at it...
the idle vac if I recall is only about 10-11 @ 800rpm.
MDS supplies mech advance curve graphs, that tell you what spring combo and bushing to run to achieve your decision on advance, once that is dialed in, I'll deal with the vac advance...trying for 34 total mechanical, and 52 total vac.
That engine is going to want more than 34, my small block with traditional heads is locked at 38. I was going to say once you get to about 10 inHg or below you will want to ditch the vacuum advance, you are right on the edge, you should be fine. But if you can't get a can low enough that's all in before your idle vacuum then you will have fluctuating timing at idle and that doesn't help. I think the can I used is all in by 8 inHg, but it had a LOT of advance, so I just welded a spot in there to limit it and then filed it back until it gave me what I needed at cruise RPM.
The adjustable cans usually keep traveling until way past 8", but if you limit it so it doesn't then you may be so low of advance it won't do anything. Do you have a hand vacuum pump and a dial timing light or timing tape on your balancer? That's what I use to tune the vacuum advance.
I hope you get the DP. I got to say if you do I would still look at the HP mainbody kit. Much smoother airflow to the venturis with no choke tower and adjustable airbleeds.
The adjustable cans usually keep traveling until way past 8", but if you limit it so it doesn't then you may be so low of advance it won't do anything. Do you have a hand vacuum pump and a dial timing light or timing tape on your balancer? That's what I use to tune the vacuum advance.
I hope you get the DP. I got to say if you do I would still look at the HP mainbody kit. Much smoother airflow to the venturis with no choke tower and adjustable airbleeds.
I've run up to 40* advance w/ race gas...don't dare try it on pump gas...hence the 34...safe for street hot rodding w/ premium.
I got a degreed balancer, and a vaccum pump to use for tuning...should have the dist tomorrow.
I got a degreed balancer, and a vaccum pump to use for tuning...should have the dist tomorrow.
I thought we ran the numbers and your dynamic compression turned out to be fine? I have 9.8:1 static with iron heads and I run locked at 38 all the time. I tried 40 once and I didn't gain any ET and lost a mph so 38 is my best timing. And I haven't run race gas yet, all pump gas all the time, even with the 175 shot. Although if I go any higher it will be race gas.
Sounds like you are setup for tuning, don't be afraid to give it what it wants Zim...
I think static was 9.8 and dynamic was like 8.3...that would probably work to do it that way...so what do you mean by locked at 38?
I got the new MSD tach drive dist and wire set on today....custom set as I wanted to run them under the headers.
need to do some tuning now to check the curves in the dist, then move on to the carb..
Been thinking about taking the paint off the top of the v/c's too....just a little too much orange going on there...thoughts?
I got the new MSD tach drive dist and wire set on today....custom set as I wanted to run them under the headers.
need to do some tuning now to check the curves in the dist, then move on to the carb..
Been thinking about taking the paint off the top of the v/c's too....just a little too much orange going on there...thoughts?
I like the orange.
Do you got a pic of the engine with the air cleaner on it? I`m sure you do.
Do you got a pic of the engine with the air cleaner on it? I`m sure you do.
I think static was 9.8 and dynamic was like 8.3...that would probably work to do it that way...so what do you mean by locked at 38?
I got the new MSD tach drive dist and wire set on today....custom set as I wanted to run them under the headers.
need to do some tuning now to check the curves in the dist, then move on to the carb..
Been thinking about taking the paint off the top of the v/c's too....just a little too much orange going on there...thoughts?
Always wondered what those little nubs on the top of hte MSD wires were for...
Looks great!
Just got back from a 60 mile highway test....so I'm doing 3700rpm going down the highway (3.90 gear, speedo is way off) still getting passed with frequent regularity, car is running 210-220 (a little hotter than I would like but it was 88 today) runs pretty comfortable drives nice and straight until you get in some truck ruts. Pretty happy with it, no leaks, no boil over, etc. a few items vibrated loose, but easy fixes.
I took me 54 seconds to go a measured mile....how fast was I going?
I took me 54 seconds to go a measured mile....how fast was I going?
I like the orange.
Do you got a pic of the engine with the air cleaner on it? I`m sure you do.
big pappa b
3/4 ton status
66.7
I'd mill the tops with a longboard... break it up a bit...
exactly what I was thinking. single stage it with orange, mill it, clear it.
I've got a set of BB MT's downstairs I'm considering for Mutt.... They'd get that treatment...
I used to do a bit of biz back in the day at the Englishtown swapmeet with em.... I'd buy up all the dirty MT's I could find for $10, $20, blast em, paint em all kinds of colors, mill em, and sell em at the next show for $100 to 150, SB and BB...
I think your compression is the exact same as my iron headed 388 Dave. And by locked at 38, I mean I removed the vacuum can, removed the weights and springs, and welded it solid, then set the timing at 38 after some track testing. I phased the rotor by cutting the vacuum can off the bracket and screwing the magnetic pickup tab down to the empty bracket. So it's literally locked at 38, all the time, all loads, all RPMs. Now, it can crank over a little slow when it's hot, but that can be fixed by either shutting the spark off, geting it cranking, and then turning the spark on once it's cranking. Or, my digital 6 box has a built in start retard you can enable. In my opinion, if you don't have enough vacuum to run the vacuum can, then ditch everything, the motor will be more more responsive and run much better locked then it will with only mechanical advance and thats it. Because if you don't have enough vacuum you probably have a large cam and a stall converter, and it will like the locked out timing. When I locked my timing and built the double pumper, it turned my car into a whole different animal
The new distributor is looking great, that's a nice setup.
I think that would look good Dave, orange under the machined aluminum rib look.
I unplugged the vac, and plugged the carb port...runs down the highway steady, no surging that way...I'll try to get a vac gauge in the car to see what I got at steady cruise 3700-4000rpm. I get about 12 at idle right now
In my regal I get about 8 or 9 inHg at idle, and cruising down the road I get around 18 - 20. Use your vacuum pump to see if the timing keeps increasing as you raise the vacuum above 12, I bet it does.
big pappa b
3/4 ton status
Your directions have been posted:
http://www.hotrod.com/powertour/2012/hrpt_2012_driving_directions/
http://www.hotrod.com/powertour/2012/hrpt_2012_driving_directions/
