CK5
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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
It does say to mount it on the upper half....but I think angling it down should take care of most of that problem, as it shouldn't run into it if it drips on the outer case, still not the best position.
We can evaluate the bung positioning when we get the parts in front of us!
I was thinking as long as the sensor is pointed downward at a 10* or slightly more angle it shouldn't be subjected to condensate.
I was thinking as long as the sensor is pointed downward at a 10* or slightly more angle it shouldn't be subjected to condensate.
So you two are going to sit around and look at a bunghole together?
Martin
Martin
And they’re going to discuss how much moisture it can catch…
Ooh, I can recommend this ride, but the terrain will likely be different!If your still at heaths... Go for the side by side ride
View attachment 20240730_145816_001[2].mp4
Lookin three tits Dave!!
Cam installed and degreed, had to grind the retainer plate to obtain proper cam end play. Thanks Heath!
Did a valve to piston check (+.200), pushrod length checked (7.400), rocker arm geometry check.
Heath lapped all valves before final install, then valve springs installed and height checked and shims installed where necessary. After head assembly Heath vacuum checked each combustion chamber, and found 2 exhaust valves that weren’t acceptably seating. Had to disassemble those two and relap them for acceptable sealing.
And a mockup engine for the pic whores! It came back apart and put back into their respective boxes for the ride back to the Flyin Rat Garage.
It was a long day for this old man.
I can’t thank Heath enough for letting me “help” with my engine assembly.
Did a valve to piston check (+.200), pushrod length checked (7.400), rocker arm geometry check.
Heath lapped all valves before final install, then valve springs installed and height checked and shims installed where necessary. After head assembly Heath vacuum checked each combustion chamber, and found 2 exhaust valves that weren’t acceptably seating. Had to disassemble those two and relap them for acceptable sealing.
And a mockup engine for the pic whores! It came back apart and put back into their respective boxes for the ride back to the Flyin Rat Garage.
It was a long day for this old man.
I can’t thank Heath enough for letting me “help” with my engine assembly.
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Love. It.
So if it blows up who do you blame!? 
JK!
Awesomer!!
JK!
Awesomer!!
The camera angle makes it look like its contacting but its not, there is plenty of clearance, we checked. He was trying to get a good angle for the rocker tip, not the retainer clearance. In the other pics you can see where the rocker is clearanced for the spring though.Just a quick observation, but,... Isn't this going to be an issue?
I kno non LS stuff you can have issues with the retainer hitting the rocker. That looks pretty close here
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Proud to be a part of it Dave, but you are not giving yourself enough credit. All we did was check clearances, degree the cam, lap valves, etc. We did this so you could assemble the engine yourself and be proud of it. That car is awesome and this will be the best engine to go in it, 427 small block Chevy!
Those Howards pistons (made by Ross) are awesome, forged, webbed skirt, short wrist pin, nice pieces, and that block casting is so nice I thought it was aluminum for a second when we opened the box! Fully forged rotating assembly, Dart heads and block, it's a very nice engine!
As I was winding down last night I remembered we forgot to check rod/cam clearance as it got later. Even with that 4" stroke crank, with that small base circle cam and aftermarket rods you should be good, but you need to make sure every rod clears the cam for two crank revolutions. I like to use a flexible zip tie, you need at least .050" clearance, if you find a zip tie that's .060" then you know if it clears without pinching you are good. It's best to have the engine upside down and you'll see when the rod gets real close, then turn the crank past that spot with the zip tie between there while you make sure it doesn't pinch it. It should be good, but you need to be 100% sure you don't need to clearance the rod more. Dart clearanced the block, but we installed the cam. I would double check block clearance too on both sides of the pan rail and at the bottom of the bores just to be 100% sure.
Thanks for the experience, Heath. I agree. This will be a great fit for my car and the many hours we spent talking about the combination. I feel like we nailed it.
Thanks for the reminder on the cam rod clearance and rod to Block clearance check I will put that on my list!
Thanks for the reminder on the cam rod clearance and rod to Block clearance check I will put that on my list!
