@ryoken
I think a seam sealer FUZE? FUZOR? would be similar to the factory process... it's watertight, smoothable and durable.
-G
CK5
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@ryoken
I think a seam sealer FUZE? FUZOR? would be similar to the factory process... it's watertight, smoothable and durable.
-G
Lord Fusor is who I like for seam sealer.. there are others, think 3M makes a nice one these days too... I like air/moisture dried 1-parts for simplicity.. their current version is 804HD.. i haven't used that one, but i really liked the older 101 stuff...... caulk it and brush it out with an acid brush and lube...
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/lord-fusor-hd-seam-sealers/automotive-seam-sealers&p=6DL21&msclkid=7d9cf051710a1e8aca7c905197f89959&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=AC_PLA_Desktop_Vendor_Shopping&utm_term=4584963492739411&utm_content=All Products
they make much better 2-parts too, check the website.. i opt for 1-part for simplicity..... if i was in the collish biz still, i may say otherwise...
assuming a seam sealer is what you are after here, haven't been keeping up, my bad...
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/lord-fusor-hd-seam-sealers/automotive-seam-sealers&p=6DL21&msclkid=7d9cf051710a1e8aca7c905197f89959&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=AC_PLA_Desktop_Vendor_Shopping&utm_term=4584963492739411&utm_content=All Products
they make much better 2-parts too, check the website.. i opt for 1-part for simplicity..... if i was in the collish biz still, i may say otherwise...
assuming a seam sealer is what you are after here, haven't been keeping up, my bad...
@ryoken
This is to reattach the rear wheel tubs to the innner bedsides and floor.
There might be a different product for this, but my only worry is that a true panel adhesive would permanently bond them together in a way that the factory never intended. (Like never....ever....EVER....coming back apart!)
It seems like you want something strong and watertight, but not necessarily a permanent adhesion....
-G
This is to reattach the rear wheel tubs to the innner bedsides and floor.
There might be a different product for this, but my only worry is that a true panel adhesive would permanently bond them together in a way that the factory never intended. (Like never....ever....EVER....coming back apart!)
It seems like you want something strong and watertight, but not necessarily a permanent adhesion....
-G
Duct tape sounds like the perfect solution.
@ryoken
This is to reattach the rear wheel tubs to the innner bedsides and floor.
There might be a different product for this, but my only worry is that a true panel adhesive would permanently bond them together in a way that the factory never intended. (Like never....ever....EVER....coming back apart!)
It seems like you want something strong and watertight, but not necessarily a permanent adhesion....
-G
it would do that... tho I'm not sure it's something I would be concerned about disassembly with...
keep in mind, panel adhesive, effectively windshield urethane, isn't "forever".. ANYTHING can be removed with the right techniques, tools...
I see it in the marine biz, people think 3M 5200 urethane is like that, effectively the same product, and there ain't nothing I can't disassemble that's put together with that....
What I pulled out of there seemed a lot more like plumbers putty than anything else, although I'm sure it broke down quite a bit.
Seems to me that I'm looking for something that will provide a water tight seal, but will come apart with just a gentle tug. Hell, window caulking would probably be about right, but I'm wondering if there is a specific product for it.
Seems to me that I'm looking for something that will provide a water tight seal, but will come apart with just a gentle tug. Hell, window caulking would probably be about right, but I'm wondering if there is a specific product for it.
ok, cool. Thanks man. I'll look for some.
Rust repair continues. Ended up being a little more extensive than I thought, but I still should finish tomorrow I think. All of this will be covered in a couple layers of sound deadening, so it doesn't have to look perfect, just needs to be clean metal.
Some before and after pics:
Some before and after pics:
What kind of welder setup do you use for the body repairs? The shop welder I have access to is setup for heavy welding with .035 wire and welding body panels doesn't work very well. I would really like to get a smaller welder for body repairs, so I'm curious what people are using.
I use .035" wire everywhere. Don't think that's going to be an issue, but you can use something smaller if it concerns you.
One thing that seemed to help me a lot was using a "Gold Gas" instead of the traditional shielding gas. The sound of the welder is different, and the weld seems "softer"... almost less aggressive in a way. So even welding thin metal, I found a combination of a .035" wire, voltage and wire speed that actually ended up being really effective.... good penetration, without blowing through, and without an excessive weld profile that needs a lot of grinding.
It might take a little experimenting, but if you can't seem to find a combination that is working for you now the Gold Gas could make the difference.
-G
I've found if you switch to .023" wire you can actually weld sheetmetal instead of just making a bunch of tack welds in a row. It's not very effective with .030 or .035 even with the variable adjustment of the Miller Welders as opposed to the stepped voltage. I use .030 for most everything else. I think welding over 1/4" you would be better off with .035 but I have welded 3/8" thick with .030" without an issue. I actually keep a MIG liner for .023 wire just for when I need to swap over if I will be doing a lot of sheetmetal. You can just flip the little drive wheel over on the Miller and use the same drive wheel.
I'm using an Eastwood 135 mig welder. For the sheetmetal repair stuff I switch to .023 wire. Like @folkenheath said you can actually weld with it (short distances) and it's way easier to deal with than the .030 that I usually have in the welder. I use the .030 for just about everything else. I do have .035 flux core that I have used for heavier stuff but I honestly hate using flux core so rarely bring it out.
If you're thinking about picking up another welder on the cheaper side, I highly recommend the harbor freight vulcan welder. One of the other Uinta Garage guys has it and it was a shockingly good welder. I think it was this one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/weldi...rial-welder-with-120240-volt-input-63617.html
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
have they tried any of the Vulcan TIG’s? I’m kinda looking around to expand my skills.
Not that I'm aware of. Pretty sure Eric said they were all DC tig though. I think you need AC for the fun stuff.
What would the difference be between DC and AC to limit it?
AC TIG is for aluminum(and magnesium I suppose), DC TIG is used for everything else basically, steel, stainless, chrome-moly, titanium, etc...
That's interesting because it would allow me to just pickup a bottle of the gas and I could use it on the shop welder without changing a lot. I'm also glad you posted that link because we have a stainless steel job coming up and I noticed they have a Gold Gas for stainless which might be handy.
For the shop work, we're rarely welding anything thinner than 3/16" and it's not uncommon to be welding 1" plate to a 3/8" wall square tube so that's why we used the .035. Unfortunately it's not easy to switch wire diameter on our welder.
My wife wanted birthday present ideas so I sent her a link to the Eastwood MIG. I was wondering about the HF welders, too.
