Regearing my 14 bolt. thoughts on the pattern?
CK5
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Regearing my 14 bolt. thoughts on the pattern?
Looks pretty close, I'd run it. 4-5 thou more pinion shim will make it perfect though.
Working on installing my arb locker and the copper line broke.
I used my torch and melted off the brazing and ordered a new line.
What is the best rod to use to braze it back on? Would solder hold?
I used my torch and melted off the brazing and ordered a new line.
What is the best rod to use to braze it back on? Would solder hold?
I think that solder would crack ,but I am not positive.
Is that the piston? I am wondering if the sealing rings are right next to where you had to heat it.
Is that the piston? I am wondering if the sealing rings are right next to where you had to heat it.
The absolute best stuff is silver solder. But it's expensive and might be tough on something that small.
www.gasandsupply.com
Gas and Supply
USA's largest independent welding supply distributor. Great prices, better service. Buy online 24/7.
Better now, then later on the trail.
I was able to braze on a new line and get the arb installed in the axle.
I then got the ORD cross steer stuff installed, and got the axle installed in the truck.
With the new axles i needed new wheels and tires, so picked up these vision wheels. I think it turned out pretty slick.
I then got the ORD cross steer stuff installed, and got the axle installed in the truck.
With the new axles i needed new wheels and tires, so picked up these vision wheels. I think it turned out pretty slick.
I'm having some trouble with my rear brakes. The new rear axle has disk brakes and I'm getting no braking at all so far. I bought a new prop valve
But it didn't seem to help. Pedal feels like i still need to bleed the brakes, but im not getting any bubbles out of any of the calipers. Any thoughts?
But it didn't seem to help. Pedal feels like i still need to bleed the brakes, but im not getting any bubbles out of any of the calipers. Any thoughts?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Did you bleed the prop valve first? I ran into a similar issue when I did mine. Ended up running some hoses from the valve back up into the reservoir. Then swapped the brake lines back on and let the brake calipers gravity bleed. I remember is being somewhat painful.
I didn't bleed the valve, and that may have had something to do with it. I finally tried bleeding from the center connection to the axle into a bottle so I could watch it and finally a bunch of bubbles came out.
I probably just got impatient. Either way, it's good now!
I probably just got impatient. Either way, it's good now!
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Nice work, when I went to 4 wheel disc I had to install a residual pressure valve and an adjustable proportioning valve in the line to the rear brakes. Without the residual pressure valve the rear calipers would release too far and cause problems. So if over time you get spongy you can look at that.
Good to know. I figured I might need an adjustable valve if the brakes grab too hard, but never thought about a residual pressure valve. thanks!
The residual pressure valve is suppose to be for when you mount the master cylinder lower than the calipers to keep it from draining back out. (like in an old hot rod)
Calipers aren't designed to need a residual pressure valve, and when you don't need one it can create unnecessary drag on the rotor when driving. More than likely you had a different issue going on.
I have never ran a residual pressure valve on any vehicle I put rear discs on. I did put a Wilwood proportioning valve (more like a regulator) on the back line to keep the rears from locking up first. I kept testing and turning it in until they didn't. Theoretically that would change when you put more load on the back axle.
Calipers aren't designed to need a residual pressure valve, and when you don't need one it can create unnecessary drag on the rotor when driving. More than likely you had a different issue going on.
I have never ran a residual pressure valve on any vehicle I put rear discs on. I did put a Wilwood proportioning valve (more like a regulator) on the back line to keep the rears from locking up first. I kept testing and turning it in until they didn't. Theoretically that would change when you put more load on the back axle.
I did a front to rear adjustable proportioning valve on the Jimmy. You can turn the bias to one end or the other of the truck. Both lines from the master cylinder ran into it, then out to the brakes. I used it to remove braking from the rear, to do a burnout, with all of the 200hp that GM gave me.
Like Heath said, a residual pressure valve can create problems. Should not be needed.
Like Heath said, a residual pressure valve can create problems. Should not be needed.
They use residual pressure valves with drum brakes to keep a small amount of pressure in the wheel cylinders so the shoes don't return too far and cause excessive pedal travel. And like Heath said in an under the floor master cylinder setup.
Good point, I think I have seen different residual "pressures" for that now that you mention it, I remember seeing 2 psi and 5 or 10 psi or something like that depending on if you had drums or just a low master cylinder. I have never used one, because I haven't used that low of a master cylinder, and if I am changing brakes the first thing I do is convert to disc and you should not need them on a disc setup with the master cylinder above the calipers.
I put the same thing on a disk swap we did recently, but ended up leaving it wide open since the rears would barely lock on really hard braking. If I end up having an issue with lock up, I'll add one to mine.
Got a link to that? I like the idea of being able to lock out the rears if I want... for research purposes only. 8)
17 years ago walked into a local speed shop and told them what I needed. Had it hanging in one of the isle.
I miss those days.
I think this one does the same thing.
www.speedwaymotors.com
I miss those days.
I think this one does the same thing.
Adjustable Proportioning Valve Block Installation
Learn how to install and properly tune brakes with an adjustable proportioning valve block.
I have to turn my rear brakes almost all the way off with my adjustable proportioning valve so they don't lock in wet or icy conditions. I'm running a bigger bore disc/disc P30 master cylinder though. Nice firm pedal and way more brake than I need usually.
