CK5
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The dark blue wire coming out of pin a of the alternator goes to c100 pin j and is used for the vacuum pump on the brake booster on '03 and older applications ('04-05s had hydro-boost)and is not needed.
Interesting... my engine came out of a truck that had hydroboost. Maybe since it was an '03 the harness still had it even if it wasn't used. :dunno:

The PCM runs the ground side of the relay.

The lt blue wire at c1-6 from the TAC module is a brake light input to disable cruise control.
weird that it went to the fuse block then. :confused: Since I am planning on trying to add cruise control :woot: I'll wire that into the brake light switch.
 
I don't envy you at all on the wiring. I've only been making slow progress on mine and am so ready to be done with electrical...
 
honestly, I was scared to death to get started, but once I got into it it wasn't as bad as I thought. I'm going super slow on it because I want to be sure that I know whats going on, but after doing it I would say you don't have to. The information on lt1swap.com is perfectly accurate so you can trust it and just pull the wires they say to pull and button it back up if you just wanted to knock it out and be done.

of course bb72 has been a great help in putting my mind at ease as well. :)
 
I'm at the point where I need to buy and set up my engine fuse/relay block, so what is everyone using? I've done a little bit of looking around online and what I'm finding is expensive and not really what I want. :(

I figure I need 8-10 fuses and 4 relays.

This weekend I plan on spending some time at the junkyards to see if I can find anything that will work so I can save some coin. Anything in particular I need to be looking out for?
 
I'm at the point where I need to buy and set up my engine fuse/relay block, so what is everyone using? I've done a little bit of looking around online and what I'm finding is expensive and not really what I want. :(

I figure I need 8-10 fuses and 4 relays.

This weekend I plan on spending some time at the junkyards to see if I can find anything that will work so I can save some coin. Anything in particular I need to be looking out for?

http://www.currentperformance.com/Accessories/SA-1k.html
This is what I originally purchased for my swap, I later found a stand alone harness for dirt cheap and sold this. It was very high quality and I recommend it to anyone.
 
had a nice productive day at the junkyard.
Fuse_block.jpg


Snagged this from a 2000 astro cargo van. It is about 3" by 5" and looks like it will bolt easily to the firewall or fender. Plenty of fuse slots and just enough relays. The best part, $13. :woot:
 
I spent the day pulling the fuse box apart and rewiring it with the correct gauges and colors for the circuits I want to run. For now I'm not using any of the large fuses on the left side but I'll leave them wired for future additions.

Also got a little something in the mail:
Mount_plates.jpg


With these I can go stock, 1" forward or 1" back. Hopefully that's enough adjustment for me to make it work. :thumb:
 
I've got the engine wiring harness pretty much ready to go, I've got the fuse box all wired up correctly, and I've got a nice weather proof connector to connect them together so it's time to start working on the truck to finalize where I'm going to put everything so I can get the wiring between the harness and fuse box cut to the right length.

I've pretty much decided that I really need to move the battery from the passenger side to the drivers side since everything with the engine harness and air box is designed to work that way.

In order to do this right, The first thing I needed to do was clean up the wires I already know are a mess. First thing I find when I go digging through everything...
Wiring3.jpg

Yeah, this corroded wire end was jammed up inside the ps fender and connected directly to the battery via that junction box you see in the pic. It must not have been making much of a connection because I didn't catch anything on fire :rolleyes: but I bet that was part of my battery drain issue. :whistle:

I managed to pull out a bunch of wires that went nowhere and things are starting to look a little cleaner. I did find a bunch of wires connected to a relay that I don't understand though.
Wiring1.jpg

In case it isn't clear, the wires are black, light green, brown/white. The black wire was attached to the connector sitting on the left.

They were all fed through the hole in the upper right of this pic:
Wiring2.jpg


The green and black wires were just run across the firewall and down near the starter but not connected. The brown/white wire was run the same place, but was also spliced into another brown and white wire. You can see that other wire in the forground looping over to the upper left. It goes through the firewall and into the back of the fuse box, but it isn't on the wiring diagrams that I can find.

I pulled this image off of http://67-72chevytrucks.com
Fuse_box_labeled.jpg

The brown/white wire that goes to the fuse block is connected to the fuse labeled "heat" but obviously it wasn't running my heater. I'm wondering if it wasn't hooked up incorrectly and was supposed to run to the fuse next to it "air cond.". This blazer doesn't have the vents for air conditioning but maybe the wiring harness or the body was swapped at some point? :dunno: I've run into a few things in the past that make me think that maybe the frame isn't a '72 frame. :confused:

Anybody know if that relay has something to do with the air conditioning system?
 
Oh, one other quick question. Anybody know of a later model fuse panel that would bolt into the same location? It would be nice to ditch the glass fuses but I'm not willing to spend $300 for an aftermarket replacement right now.
 
I have non a/c blazer and have the relay. Green is for temp to side of block on mine...that's the one I can trace. The brown from reading is likely the TCS(transmission control spark) and the other I am unsure of, maybe for electric choke?
 
I have non a/c blazer and have the relay. Green is for temp to side of block on mine...that's the one I can trace. The brown from reading is likely the TCS(transmission control spark) and the other I am unsure of, maybe for electric choke?
There is a separate green wire in the same area for the temp gauge. The green wire connected to the relay was unconnected. I'm thinking you are right about it being for TCS. Either way, it's gone now and so are all the wires for it. :waytogo:

I decided to pull the entire cab wiring harness so that I could work on a table instead of around the steering column and honestly I was surprised at just how small it is. I guess I shouldn't be but I was.

Anyway, one of the changes I plan on making while I'm at this is to run the ACC circuit through a relay instead of having everything power through the ignition switch. I pulled the switch to take a look and decide exactly which wires do what.
Ign_switch.jpg

connections in case it isn't visible: clockwise from the top, IGN, SOL, ACC, BATT, BATT, G2, G1.

At first I was confused by IGN and ACC but after some playing with the switch it made sense. According to the wiring diagrams, IGN runs to the fuel gauge, solenoid, and coil. It comes on when you turn the key on, just like ACC, but when you turn it all the way to start the switch cuts power to ACC, but not IGN. Conversely, when you turn the key to ACC the IGN circuit is not powered.

I plan on running the IGN circuit through a relay on my new fuse block and possibly ACC too.

BATT and SOL are obvious, power in and power out to the solenoid. G2 connects to the brake light warning switch (on the MC) and G1 is supposed to connect to the engine temp switch, but my truck doesn't have a connection here. I'm not sure what the point of this connection is though. I believe the brake light warning switch provides a ground when the light is supposed to be on but I can't tell how the G2 pin interacts with the circuit. Anybody know?

Of course all of this was a distraction from what I was supposed to be doing which is move the battery over to the drivers side. My plan was to pull out the stock battery tray, swap the sides around and bolt it back in. The core support is roughly the same on both sides, just swapped left to right, so it probably would have worked ok... except for the fan bracket I put there a couple of years ago. :whistle:

In_the_way1.jpg

That nice aluminum bracket blocks where it would want to bolt up, so I guess I'm building my own tray from scratch now. :rolleyes:

At some point in the past my truck was converted from points to HEI so some of the wires aren't where they are supposed to be. For instance, the IGN wire that was supposed to go to the starter solenoid wasn't connected. I guess it wasn't needed? :dunno: Also, at first I thought the HEI coil was connected wrong but I was able to find where it plugged into the fuse block and it was indeed running off of the IGN circuit.
 
I'm not sure if this info is useful to anyone else, but I find this stuff interesting so I'm posting the answers anyway. :laugh:

G2 connects to the brake light warning switch (on the MC) and G1 is supposed to connect to the engine temp switch, but my truck doesn't have a connection here. I'm not sure what the point of this connection is though. I believe the brake light warning switch provides a ground when the light is supposed to be on but I can't tell how the G2 pin interacts with the circuit. Anybody know?

most ignition switches for later model cars.. have at least one but i think yours has 2 ground connections for bulb check of the various idiot lights on the dash board... they would be marked G1 and G2 like you describe...

what... why ..?????

when you turn the key to the crank position.. did you ever notice that a lot of dash lights come on.. that is how they do it... this tests the bulbs in the dash board... lets you know they work... not if the individual switch works.. it grounds the temp switch circuit wire usually... the other probably for the brake failure warning light..

Once I knew what to look for, I put the switch in the "crank" position and sure enough G1 and G2 short to the case which would be grounded when installed in the truck.

And now I know...
knowingishalfthebattle.png
 
I had my camaro exhaust manifolds show up today:

Camaro_exhaust1.jpg


According to what I've been reading the truck exhaust manifolds wouldn't clear the frame. You can see the difference in these pics:

Exhaust_far.jpg
Exhaust_close.jpg

Truck style/Camaro style

As you can see, it's quite a bit of difference and the new ones should clear the frame no problem. That said, I think I may have a whole new problem to deal with. :rolleyes: Both styles of manifold want to dump right near the back of the engine at the bottom...

Clutch_interference.jpg

...right where my clutch slave cylinder is located. :doah:

I haven't done a whole lot of research on solving this problem (yet) so any input would be greatly appreciated.

At the moment I'm wondering if I could switch to an internal style slave. I found this thread over on pirate: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...0-daily-driver-build-thread.html#post12591902
He's got a 6.0 and NV4500 going into a jeep and his slave looks like this:
internal_slave.jpg


I have no idea if that would work for my setup, if it would require a different bellhousing, etc... research time. /sigh
 
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Question: could you swap left to right on the manifolds and route the pipes a bit differently? Or are they not even swapable that way, or just cause more problems then that's worth (like interference with the crossmember, etc)?
 
Question: could you swap left to right on the manifolds and route the pipes a bit differently? Or are they not even swapable that way, or just cause more problems then that's worth (like interference with the crossmember, etc)?

Just from looking at them, the bolt pattern wouldn't line up, and you're also right about that causing a whole host of other issues too, but I do like some out of the box thinking coming my way. :thumb:

Good progress!
Thanks man. Sometimes it feels like I'm finding more problems than I'm solving at the moment but I guess that is progress too.

I got a few presents in today.
Flywheel1.jpg

Sachs NFW1050 flywheel. Only $70. Hopefully the right one.

A little more on the bling side...
Guages1.jpg


and of course I just had to pull the gauge cluster to see how it was going to look:
Guages2.jpg


Speedo won't be here until Monday, but I'm liking the look so far! :woot:
 
I have read that trailblazer ss manifolds will work.

"So after 5 sets of headers and one set of manifolds, I decided on the Doug Thorley exhaust manifold replacement headers for gm LS trucks
I did need to clearance the frame and the flange of the drivers header a bit to get some breathing room for the headers, but they are in and will work.

Here are the headers numbers I tried and results with a 4x4 running a hydraulic clutch and lq4 motor moved forward 2 inches:

1) Headman Mid-length HED-45666
(HIT FRT SHACKLE BOLTS AND WOULD NEED DRIVERS SIDE FRAME
CLEARANCED)
2) Headman Block Hugger HED-68526
(WILL FIT FINE AND NO ISSUES WITH HYD CLTCH)
3) Doug Thorley long tube - 324Y-C (WILL NOT CLEAR CAB OR CLEAR HYD
CLTCH)
4) Doug Thorley Manifold replacement headers 309-C (WILL FIT WITH
DRIVERS SIDE FRAME CLEARANCED FOR FLANGE)
5) HOOKER LS MANIFOLDS 8501-1HKR (DRIVERS FLANGE HIT HYD CLUTCH
SLAVE)

I hope this helps somebody save time and money, ordering, trying, failing and eventually winning. It has been a pain in my ass and I will probably have to reinforce the frame in that area. The clearancing took about a 1/2 inch of the frame. Now onto wiring."

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=392636&page=8
 
Right on! Thanks Mark. I'm still looking at moving the slave cylinder, but good to know there are good header options too.
 

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