It's a regular 4 core. Copper or brass I assume. I went into a radiator shop yesterday and they said they could silver solder a fitting on it for me but they want $45 to do it.
CK5
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I think I have all of the fittings I need to plumb my fuel lines.
The top line is my return line that will run from the engine, down the firewall and jump to the frame rail. The hard line is 5/16" inverted flare brake line (obviously unbent still).
The other line is the high pressure portion of the feed line. I'll rebend the stock line to get me from the engine, down to the frame rail, and into the fuel filter. I have all of the fittings I need now to get from the filter, through the fuel pump and on to the existing 3/8" inverted flare tubing.
I should be good to go when I'm ready to pull the 383 out.
On to other issues:
I need to order up some block-off plates for my camaro exhaust. Anyone know what they are called?
I also removed the flex plate so I could get a look at the rear main seal and because I'll be running a flywheel anyway.
The seal looks pretty good to me. I don't see any leaks. Should I just leave it be?
Here it is cleaned up a bit:
The crud you saw in the first pic was coming from the oil pan gasket. When I press on the gasket with a screwdriver you can see oil seeping out.
The 2 really long bolts on the rear of the oil pan were both a little loose. I don't know if that is a common problem or not. Maybe a little locktite is in order when I replace the gasket.
The top line is my return line that will run from the engine, down the firewall and jump to the frame rail. The hard line is 5/16" inverted flare brake line (obviously unbent still).
The other line is the high pressure portion of the feed line. I'll rebend the stock line to get me from the engine, down to the frame rail, and into the fuel filter. I have all of the fittings I need now to get from the filter, through the fuel pump and on to the existing 3/8" inverted flare tubing.
I should be good to go when I'm ready to pull the 383 out.
On to other issues:
I need to order up some block-off plates for my camaro exhaust. Anyone know what they are called?
I also removed the flex plate so I could get a look at the rear main seal and because I'll be running a flywheel anyway.
The seal looks pretty good to me. I don't see any leaks. Should I just leave it be?
Here it is cleaned up a bit:
The crud you saw in the first pic was coming from the oil pan gasket. When I press on the gasket with a screwdriver you can see oil seeping out.
The 2 really long bolts on the rear of the oil pan were both a little loose. I don't know if that is a common problem or not. Maybe a little locktite is in order when I replace the gasket.
How many miles are on that engine? Thats what I would go by on replacing the main seal.
Also, I don't think I would put loctite in there, maybe just retorque after a few heat cycles.
Also, I don't think I would put loctite in there, maybe just retorque after a few heat cycles.
I'll have to go look at my paperwork to be sure but I seem to recall about 120k miles on it.
Is replacing that seal as easy as it looks? It looks like you could just pop it out with a screwdriver without disassembling anything.
Is replacing that seal as easy as it looks? It looks like you could just pop it out with a screwdriver without disassembling anything.
Get a seal kit for the rear main and replace the gasket on the aluminum housing the seal goes in. I see by far more leaks from the gasket than I do the seal and it's so easy to fix now. A thin bead of silicone on the top of the oil pan will reseal it to the main seal housing and your leaks should be fixed before they even really start.
I think it's going to be easier to make the block off plates than find them to buy.
I think it's going to be easier to make the block off plates than find them to buy.
makes sense to me. It looks like the kit is about $25. Are you saying I can use silicone to reseal the oil pan gasket? That gasket is about $50 so that would be great if I could.
I use both on the oil pan, lay the gasket down, rivet it in and on the corners run a 4 inch bead around the 4 corners.
pedal questions.
My initial though is to mount the new pedal in the same spot as the old pedal using the bolt hole in both mounts as a reference point.
The first most obvious problem with this is that the DBW pedal goes off to the right while the original pedal goes off to the left. Also, the DBW pedal is quite a bit taller and appears to hit the wiper motor and possibly even the ignition switch.
Any thoughts on the best way to modify it? Pics would be fantastic.
My initial though is to mount the new pedal in the same spot as the old pedal using the bolt hole in both mounts as a reference point.
The first most obvious problem with this is that the DBW pedal goes off to the right while the original pedal goes off to the left. Also, the DBW pedal is quite a bit taller and appears to hit the wiper motor and possibly even the ignition switch.
Any thoughts on the best way to modify it? Pics would be fantastic.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Cut the pedal off and weld it back on leaned to the left?
I cut off the DBW pedal and welded the stock one to it. I used some 1.5" flat stock to space it to the left. Ill try to get a picture.
Edit: It looks like you have a different pedal setup but its the same idea. I planned on smoothing it out a bit to make it look better, maybe one day... Sorry for the picture, its ****ty out right now.
For mounting I used the stock firewall holes and redrilled the upper hole in the DBW setup, it was a tight spot but it worked out
Edit: It looks like you have a different pedal setup but its the same idea. I planned on smoothing it out a bit to make it look better, maybe one day... Sorry for the picture, its ****ty out right now.
For mounting I used the stock firewall holes and redrilled the upper hole in the DBW setup, it was a tight spot but it worked out
Last edited:
Thanks for the pic.
You're right, mine is a little different but I can modify it similarly. I just wanted to see if anyone did anything special with it other than the obvious.
You're right, mine is a little different but I can modify it similarly. I just wanted to see if anyone did anything special with it other than the obvious.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
my plan (not solution yet, just my plan) is to use an 95 diesel pedal. they were DBW, but use the exact same bolt holes and shape as our older pedals.
here's a PDF where i got the info (including re-pin info)
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/81 swap.pdf
here's a PDF where i got the info (including re-pin info)
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/81 swap.pdf
Since mine is a '72 it's different than the square body stuff too it appears. I started playing with modifying the pedal I have and it looks like it will work out just fine.
Thanks for the info though.
Thanks for the info though.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
whoops! i forgot yours was pre 73!
Got a another piece of the puzzle in today.
installed:
Of course this led me to notice that the exhaust flanges I have from the truck manifolds are different than the camaro manifolds. FML
So now I need to look into buying camaro flanges.
Also, the drivers side manifold has a spot for a O2 sensor but the passenger side does not. I was planning on just buying a plug for it (what type?) and using bungs welded into the exhaust the way the motor came stock, but should I maybe use it instead?
installed:
Of course this led me to notice that the exhaust flanges I have from the truck manifolds are different than the camaro manifolds. FML
So now I need to look into buying camaro flanges. Also, the drivers side manifold has a spot for a O2 sensor but the passenger side does not. I was planning on just buying a plug for it (what type?) and using bungs welded into the exhaust the way the motor came stock, but should I maybe use it instead?
I got my acc pedal all figured out!
The first order of business was to remove the adjustable pedal and arm and then cut down the part that is staying.
With everything that was causing interference cut off it was time to test fit it.
As you can see, it fits in nicely but I still had to use the plastic spacer that was used on my stock pedal bracket. The firewall bends in towards the cabin near the top so I had to use the spacer to keep from running into the firewall.
Luckily, this lead to inspiration! The plastic spacer is used to hold the horizontal portion of the stock pedal arm and give it a pivot point. Since I was using the spacer anyway, and I wanted the new pedal to end up in the same place as the old pedal I installed the old pedal on the DBW mount. I did this just so I could see where it landed in relation to the new mount, but I realized that if I connected the arms, the old pedal could push on the DBW arm just as easily as it pulled on the old throttle cable.
I just happened to have the perfect connector left over from one of my ideas on connecting the hydroboost.
The pivot points don't line up quite right but a couple of rubber washers gives it enough play that it works just fine.
installed:
I think it turned out pretty slick. Plus, I didn't have to modify the stock pedal, arm, or bracket, so once I had everything test fit together I was able to remove it and reinstall the stock pieces and keep the truck drivable.
I think I've got pretty much everything done that can be done before I have to yank the old engine. getting close...
The first order of business was to remove the adjustable pedal and arm and then cut down the part that is staying.
With everything that was causing interference cut off it was time to test fit it.
As you can see, it fits in nicely but I still had to use the plastic spacer that was used on my stock pedal bracket. The firewall bends in towards the cabin near the top so I had to use the spacer to keep from running into the firewall.
Luckily, this lead to inspiration! The plastic spacer is used to hold the horizontal portion of the stock pedal arm and give it a pivot point. Since I was using the spacer anyway, and I wanted the new pedal to end up in the same place as the old pedal I installed the old pedal on the DBW mount. I did this just so I could see where it landed in relation to the new mount, but I realized that if I connected the arms, the old pedal could push on the DBW arm just as easily as it pulled on the old throttle cable.
I just happened to have the perfect connector left over from one of my ideas on connecting the hydroboost.
The pivot points don't line up quite right but a couple of rubber washers gives it enough play that it works just fine.
installed:
I think it turned out pretty slick. Plus, I didn't have to modify the stock pedal, arm, or bracket, so once I had everything test fit together I was able to remove it and reinstall the stock pieces and keep the truck drivable.
I think I've got pretty much everything done that can be done before I have to yank the old engine. getting close...
hhahahahahah
way interesting and ingenuous, almost simple really lol
My stock linkage was the same except my pedal is mounted/pivoted to the floor and pushes on the linkage's spoon. I was looking into running a pedal like your '72 but ended up making everything work like stock. After mounting it, I ended up pulling the factory linkage plate off the firewall, the one with the nuts welded to it. With that out of the way, I didn't need a spacer or anything, just mount flat.
way interesting and ingenuous, almost simple really lol
My stock linkage was the same except my pedal is mounted/pivoted to the floor and pushes on the linkage's spoon. I was looking into running a pedal like your '72 but ended up making everything work like stock. After mounting it, I ended up pulling the factory linkage plate off the firewall, the one with the nuts welded to it. With that out of the way, I didn't need a spacer or anything, just mount flat.
lol, thanks man. I really like how it turned out and it just seemed so obvious. Way more simple than what I was planning to do.
Hmmm, the mounting plate is different on mine. The weld nuts are on the engine side of the firewall on mine. I'm wondering if the firewall shape is slightly different too.My stock linkage was the same except my pedal is mounted/pivoted to the floor and pushes on the linkage's spoon. I was looking into running a pedal like your '72 but ended up making everything work like stock. After mounting it, I ended up pulling the factory linkage plate off the firewall, the one with the nuts welded to it. With that out of the way, I didn't need a spacer or anything, just mount flat.
It looks good with the stock pedal there though. Good work.
Just dropping in to say nice progress Looking forward to the final swap and some burnoutburnoutburnout
Looking forward to the final swap and some burnoutburnoutburnout
Thanks bro, good to see you still kicking around. I'm looking forward to it too!
