I try to keep up with all the first gen guys. Too much makes me miss my truck though...
CK5
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Got my exhaust flanges all done:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3482942#post3482942
That was pretty much the last piece of the puzzle that I could do without removing the old 383 and going past the point of no return.
The car was due for an oil change so I pulled the blazer out of the garage so that I could change the oil and rotate the tires in the work space. With that done I pulled the truck back in and started removing stuff. I've got 5000 miles on the car to get this done.
No pics, but I did get the radiator out and the engine completely unbolted. It's just sitting in there waiting for me to hook up the crane tomorrow.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3482942#post3482942
That was pretty much the last piece of the puzzle that I could do without removing the old 383 and going past the point of no return.
The car was due for an oil change so I pulled the blazer out of the garage so that I could change the oil and rotate the tires in the work space. With that done I pulled the truck back in and started removing stuff. I've got 5000 miles on the car to get this done.
No pics, but I did get the radiator out and the engine completely unbolted. It's just sitting in there waiting for me to hook up the crane tomorrow.
I got to looking at my radiator and I think I have another problem to solve. 
My upper radiator connection is 1-1/2 and the engine side is 1-5/16. The lower connection is 1-3/4 while the engine is 1-9/16.
Looks like I'm going to need some sort of adapters. Any suggestions?
My upper radiator connection is 1-1/2 and the engine side is 1-5/16. The lower connection is 1-3/4 while the engine is 1-9/16.
Looks like I'm going to need some sort of adapters. Any suggestions?
I stretched the 2003 stock upper onto my radiator, it is stupid tight but will fit. For the lower I spent a ton of time on the summit website and found one that will work. I think it was this guy http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-70722/overview/ I will try to track down a part number but its been awhile
Thanks man, I appreciate it.
I looked up the applications on the hose you linked and it comes up with AMC Matator('75-'78) or Ford Maveric ('71-'77). That gives me what I need to know to get it locally.
I looked up the applications on the hose you linked and it comes up with AMC Matator('75-'78) or Ford Maveric ('71-'77). That gives me what I need to know to get it locally.
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I stopped by O'reillys a couple of days ago and picked up that lower radiator hose and it looks like it's going to work just fine.
I also picked up a 2003 upper radiator hose. It's the right shape and length but I don't think I'll be able to get it over my radiator outlet. I did find something that will work to adapt that hose to my current hose.
Obviously it's an exhaust piece, but the outside diameter works perfectly to adapt the 2 hoses together. I'm a bit concerned that I won't be able to get it to look decent so I'm going to keep looking for a better option but at $3 it was worth a try and lets me keep moving forward.
It's time to start taking things apart so last night I did just that.
Obviously I didn't need to take the whole front clip off just to stab an engine but it will make it easier to work with and I needed to pull the fenders for a few other lingering repairs anyway.
First, I really, REALLY need to rehang my passenger door. It's been screwy for years and hard to open so it's about time I did something about it. Also, there is this piece of rust repair that I mentioned a year or so ago.
With the fender removed, I can finally get this taken care of before it turns into a bigger problem.
I also picked up a 2003 upper radiator hose. It's the right shape and length but I don't think I'll be able to get it over my radiator outlet. I did find something that will work to adapt that hose to my current hose.
Obviously it's an exhaust piece, but the outside diameter works perfectly to adapt the 2 hoses together. I'm a bit concerned that I won't be able to get it to look decent so I'm going to keep looking for a better option but at $3 it was worth a try and lets me keep moving forward.
It's time to start taking things apart so last night I did just that.
Obviously I didn't need to take the whole front clip off just to stab an engine but it will make it easier to work with and I needed to pull the fenders for a few other lingering repairs anyway.
First, I really, REALLY need to rehang my passenger door. It's been screwy for years and hard to open so it's about time I did something about it. Also, there is this piece of rust repair that I mentioned a year or so ago.
With the fender removed, I can finally get this taken care of before it turns into a bigger problem.
Oh yeah! It's real now!
Not much real progress this weekend but I did manage to make the swap a little less expensive.
I pulled the 383, took some pics and posted it up for sale. 2 hours later it was sold and gone.
I pulled the 383, took some pics and posted it up for sale. 2 hours later it was sold and gone.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Nice! Good job on the sale.
Not much real progress this weekend but I did manage to make the swap a little less expensive.
I pulled the 383, took some pics and posted it up for sale. 2 hours later it was sold and gone.
No going back now!
lol, that was exactly my thought when the guys truck was pulling away.No going back now!
With the old engine out I was able to get at the clutch assembly and see just what I would need to do to adapt everything together. Turns out, not much.
This is the flywheel I bought for the 6.0 awhile back. Turns out that the clutch assembly I bought last year will bolt up to it just fine! I needed to knock out the alignment pins and $10 in shoulder bolts and everything bolted right into place.
Another hurdle out of the way.
Next up, get the motor mounts on the engine and get it test fitted. Unfortunately, this didn't go as smoothly.
First off, the boss for mounting the AC compressor was in the way of the motor mount.
I clearanced the motor mount a bit and I was back in business.
In hindsight, I probably should have clearanced the boss instead. With the motor mount there I can't use it anyway. Oh well, live and learn.
On to the test fit.
Unfortunately I don't think the stock crossmember is going to work. I have clearance issues on both sides.
I'm at a bit of a loss here. I'm wondering if I need to put in a 2nd gen crossmember or something else.
For now I'm going to pull the crossmember out and get the engine hung in place and see how it looks. Any advice is appreciated.
This is the flywheel I bought for the 6.0 awhile back. Turns out that the clutch assembly I bought last year will bolt up to it just fine! I needed to knock out the alignment pins and $10 in shoulder bolts and everything bolted right into place.
Another hurdle out of the way.
Next up, get the motor mounts on the engine and get it test fitted. Unfortunately, this didn't go as smoothly.
First off, the boss for mounting the AC compressor was in the way of the motor mount.
I clearanced the motor mount a bit and I was back in business.
In hindsight, I probably should have clearanced the boss instead. With the motor mount there I can't use it anyway. Oh well, live and learn.
On to the test fit.
Unfortunately I don't think the stock crossmember is going to work. I have clearance issues on both sides.
I'm at a bit of a loss here. I'm wondering if I need to put in a 2nd gen crossmember or something else.
For now I'm going to pull the crossmember out and get the engine hung in place and see how it looks. Any advice is appreciated.
ORD cross member ?
or something similar
or something similar
Beat me to it!
Yep, Kevin & Jason at PacFab have been putting LS motors into old 67-72 Chevy trucks for years... They've pretty much got it down to a science.
My guess is that once you spend some time looking around their website and talking to them you'll end up buying more than just a new crossmember!
-G
I think you made the correct decision, it's a lot easier to replace a motor mount than an engine block if you change paths down the road.
Looks like that is the best option so I just ordered it up. Thanks.
I don't need anymore "might as well"! Just looking around at all the stuff I can reach without the front end on is causing enough of that as it is.
That was my thinking as well, but then I got to thinking that the odds of having to replace a weakened motor mount are higher than the chance of me needing that boss for anything.
Case in point, I won't be using those motor mounts with the new crossmember I just bought. ...of course I probably won't need to clearance the boss either.
I don't need anymore "might as well"! Just looking around at all the stuff I can reach without the front end on is causing enough of that as it is.
You can't afford NOT to buy more stuff and fix more problems!!!!
I've been telling myself this for years as I build and peel the rusty onion that is 1st Gen ownership...
I may have spent a small fortune so far, but I have SAVED two fortunes by doing it all at once!!!!
-G
Now that Christmas is over I finally have time to get back to work. Pacific fab came through right on time as well.
For the most part the crossmember fits well but there is one issue on the drivers side. On the passenger side it is cut out to allow the brake lines through:
But, on the drivers side it is not.
I'll have to cut it out to allow the drivers side front line through but it shouldn't be a big deal.
Now that I have the crossmember in place I can start solving the next set of problems. First up, Exhaust manifold is hitting the frame rail.
As you can see, the interference is significant. I don't see any choice but to notch the frame.
The more pressing problem at the moment is firewall interference.
As you can see in the pic above, I'm about as close to the firewall as I am comfortable with. In reality, probably a little too close. Unfortunately, I'm still a couple of inches from the transmission.
It looks like I'm going to have to move the transmission forward a few inches.
For the most part the crossmember fits well but there is one issue on the drivers side. On the passenger side it is cut out to allow the brake lines through:
But, on the drivers side it is not.
I'll have to cut it out to allow the drivers side front line through but it shouldn't be a big deal.
Now that I have the crossmember in place I can start solving the next set of problems. First up, Exhaust manifold is hitting the frame rail.
As you can see, the interference is significant. I don't see any choice but to notch the frame.
The more pressing problem at the moment is firewall interference.
As you can see in the pic above, I'm about as close to the firewall as I am comfortable with. In reality, probably a little too close. Unfortunately, I'm still a couple of inches from the transmission.
It looks like I'm going to have to move the transmission forward a few inches.
It looks like I'm going to have to move the transmission forward a few inches.
Wouldn't it be a lot easier to chop the firewall.
I think Greg has a play by play within the first 100 posts of his thread.
You're going to need to pull up your panties sometime and chop into it anyways. Might as Well..... Knock out two birds with one grinder blade, as they say.
