Yeah.
CK5
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Plus one on the super duty axles. They can be had pretty cheap around here. I think I paid under $300 for the most recent one I have.
I ran an ‘05+ in the Colorado, and I’m going to run a modified one in the shop truck. I cut down one side and lengthened the other side to run factory Chevy inner shafts. Going to run leaf springs with it, too. If I were to do it again, I would shift the diff a bit more to run early Ford inner shafts for more room for the ubolts.
I ran an ‘05+ in the Colorado, and I’m going to run a modified one in the shop truck. I cut down one side and lengthened the other side to run factory Chevy inner shafts. Going to run leaf springs with it, too. If I were to do it again, I would shift the diff a bit more to run early Ford inner shafts for more room for the ubolts.
Good to know. If I manage to grab one soon, I'll hit you up for some tips.
As I mentioned before, I didn't really break anything at fullsize invasion that kept me from wheeling, but i didnt get away completely clear either.
I had a bad u joint in the front axle that was making a ton of noise, but never did break. I replaced that when i got home.
Also found out my motor mounts were shot
I replaced those, and it also became very apparent that I needed to fix my rear pinion angle and add an anti wrap bar. So to that end, I cut off the old perches.
And added new ones setting the correct angle.
In order to add the anti wrap, I needed a crossmember to land it on, and in order to do that right, I needed to redo the transmission crossmember so that I could match them for an eventual skid plate.
With the pinion angle fixed and crossmember in place, I got to work on the anti wrap. It went together fairly quickly and turned out nice.
I used 1.75" DOM .120 wall tube fore the antiwrap, and fully sleeved the bottom tube with 1.5" for added strength.
Between the functional motor mounts and the anti wrap, throttle response is dramatically better and I can floor it without hearing my driveshaft wrap up and stress the u joints.
However I am now chasing a new noise on deceleration.
It sounds like it's coming from the transfer case, but it wasn't there before. I'm suspecting that the anti wrap is transferring noise up from the rear end. May have gear issues, or possibly a loose pinion. Gonna try to chase that down tomorrow.
I had a bad u joint in the front axle that was making a ton of noise, but never did break. I replaced that when i got home.
Also found out my motor mounts were shot
I replaced those, and it also became very apparent that I needed to fix my rear pinion angle and add an anti wrap bar. So to that end, I cut off the old perches.
And added new ones setting the correct angle.
In order to add the anti wrap, I needed a crossmember to land it on, and in order to do that right, I needed to redo the transmission crossmember so that I could match them for an eventual skid plate.
With the pinion angle fixed and crossmember in place, I got to work on the anti wrap. It went together fairly quickly and turned out nice.
I used 1.75" DOM .120 wall tube fore the antiwrap, and fully sleeved the bottom tube with 1.5" for added strength.
Between the functional motor mounts and the anti wrap, throttle response is dramatically better and I can floor it without hearing my driveshaft wrap up and stress the u joints.
However I am now chasing a new noise on deceleration.
It sounds like it's coming from the transfer case, but it wasn't there before. I'm suspecting that the anti wrap is transferring noise up from the rear end. May have gear issues, or possibly a loose pinion. Gonna try to chase that down tomorrow.
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Those engine mounts were very much shot. I've wondered with how floppy our frames are if the engine mounts/engine could actually be structure on our trucks...?
Is the rear pinion pointed at the t-case? I know the suspension is unloaded on the lift but it looks like it's pointed down too much.
Looks good and the anti-wrap will help a lot!
Looks good and the anti-wrap will help a lot!
It is. You are right, with it up on the lift, it points slightly down. At ride height it's pretty much dead on. Before it was pointed way too high, and then wrapped up even higher under load.
So, good news and bad news wrt the sound. Nothing new is broken. I removed the anti wrap bar and the sound went away. I put a camera down as close to the rear diff as I could and took it for a test drive, and yeah, it's the gears. You can't hear it in the truck with out the anti wrap connected, but with it on, it's bad.
I'm not sure what to do about it at this point.
I've got a loose yoke so the driveshaft u joint can move around. Gonna fix that and see if it's the source of my noise.
View attachment 20210425_190625.mp4
View attachment 20210425_190625.mp4
Seems like a lot. I wonder if for a quick test you could get a washer in there for a test drive to see if it would go away.
Might be worth a try, but the driveshaft would still most likely be off center I would think and still make noise.
Yeah. Might not stay in either since just the little tab would be holding it. Just thinking it'd be nice to verify before having to tear anything apart.
My thoughts on taking things apart are that I need to fix it anyway. Even if it isn't what is causing the noise, it's still a problem that needs to be addressed before it kills my pinion bearing (if it hasn't already).
Yes, that is true.
I have been slacking on updating this build, but I recently found a deal I couldn't pass up on a D60 front and 14 bolt rear. 14 bolt has a detroit and disk brakes. and the D60 came with a zip locker. Looks like I'll be upgrading to 1 ton stuff this winter. Too many projects and things I need to buy to start sooner.
I need to regear both axles to 5.13s, need a compressor for the zip locker, probably need to go through the d60, figure out a steering arm, ect.
I need to regear both axles to 5.13s, need a compressor for the zip locker, probably need to go through the d60, figure out a steering arm, ect.
Might As Well upgrade to some larger tires as well to really make the axle swap worthwhile.......
Then link it, front and rear.
You'll have another years' worth of YouTube content that way.
-G
I vote pre-runner style build!
keep an eye on the pigeonrat build... that is exactly what is planned for that.
I replaced the pinion yoke and I'm happy to say, that was indeed the source of my noise. All quiet on the western front now!
In the background you can see that I did some more work on the anti wrap bar. With it on the ground, I couldn't get it bolted back in. Either the springs have settled some, or I put it at the wrong angle by building it on the lift. Either way, I needed to add about 1" to the upper bar to make everything right again.
Now at ride height it sits just barely tight. Throttle response is good, so it's doing g its job. Should be a lot better for getting on it on the rocks now.
In the background you can see that I did some more work on the anti wrap bar. With it on the ground, I couldn't get it bolted back in. Either the springs have settled some, or I put it at the wrong angle by building it on the lift. Either way, I needed to add about 1" to the upper bar to make everything right again.
Now at ride height it sits just barely tight. Throttle response is good, so it's doing g its job. Should be a lot better for getting on it on the rocks now.
