'72 K5 - BYT - 1 ton swap

[ashman]

I guess I’ve never seen the top of your cage before, I really like how you avoided head buster bars. :rightclick,saveas:

Thanks. I've had the hard top on it since I built the cage, so noone has seen it really. I just bought the soft top right before this trip. I had forgotten how much I like wheeling topless.

Plus, that removes a TON of weight up high. My truck is already too tall, so removing that weight made a significant difference.

 

[Greg72]

Great post- mortem analysis. Sounds like you have a solid plan to eliminate some weak links and have a lot less trail drama from now on….

-G

 

[Chickntrk]

Hey the frame didnt break so that’s a win!

 

[ashman]

As you can see, the straps show signs of impacting the yoke. I think what happened is that the diff is rotating up too much and basically prying the u-joint out of the straps. I did have an anti-wrap bar a few years back, but I took it off because it was binding. I think I need to revisit it, or this is going to happen again.

Great post- mortem analysis. Sounds like you have a solid plan to eliminate some weak links and have a lot less trail drama from now on….

-G

Well, sonofabitch, I did it again.

Same basic problem, rear axle is rotating too much and causing a cascade of failures. Only this time I REALLY did it.

The axle wrap issue was compounded by the fact that one of my front hubs wasn't working. @Stephen warned me about the warn hubs, but I just installed them brand new and couldn't return them, so I ran with them. Evidently the Yukon hubs are a lot stronger and a better design. Looking at the pictures of my hub though, he thinks my stub shaft (new 35 spline chromoly BTW ) might be sticking out too far and interfering with the locking hub.


As you can see, there's a fair bit of meat past the snap ring, so I'm going to try shaving that down a touch.

Here you can see what happened to the warn hub:


Anyway, Warn did sent me out a new handle piece, so I'll keep using it for now, but just keep a better eye on the front end to make sure I'm locked in.

The rear axle yoke just broke off one of the tabs that holds the u-joint caps in place, so that was an easy fix with the welder.


The driveshaft is going to get a strap welde across the broken part:


I have a few spare driveshafts, so this one will be relegated to backup.

So, the only thing left is to repair my leaf springs. I talked to ORD and I'm going to have them replace all 4 of my main leafs, and that will have me back on the road.... Hopefully in time for FSI in a few weeks. I'll take it easy there (I know, I know, but this time for sure! )

Long term, I think it's time to link this thing. I'm way too light on shocks, and I'm obviously having trouble controlling the axles. Going to links and coilovers resolves both issues. I'm also too tall, and this would give me a good point to lower the truck overall as well.

I've still got the pigeonrat suspension to finish and the upcoming camaro project , so it's worth just getting BYT back to healthy for now, but it's time for upgrades for sure if I'm going to keep doing this kind of wheeling.

 

[ktmoutfront]

So, the only thing left is to repair my leaf springs by replacing them with links and coilovers.

FIFY

I know where there is a full set of coilovers and bypasses for sale at a deep discount.

 

[nvrenuf]

You can substitute a D60 carrier bearing race for the stock inner wheel bearing race and it’ll move the assembly outward about an 1/8”, I’ve never done it myself but lots of folks used to when aftermarket 35 spline stubs first came out because some were a tick too long. The long stubs would leave wear marks on the backside of the dials, paint will tell if yours are touching.

 

[Chickntrk]

Well, sonofabitch, I did it again.

Same basic problem, rear axle is rotating too much and causing a cascade of failures. Only this time I REALLY did it.

The axle wrap issue was compounded by the fact that one of my front hubs wasn't working. @Stephen warned me about the warn hubs, but I just installed them brand new and couldn't return them, so I ran with them. Evidently the Yukon hubs are a lot stronger and a better design. Looking at the pictures of my hub though, he thinks my stub shaft (new 35 spline chromoly BTW ) might be sticking out too far and interfering with the locking hub.

View attachment 536401
As you can see, there's a fair bit of meat past the snap ring, so I'm going to try shaving that down a touch.

Here you can see what happened to the warn hub:
View attachment 536402

Anyway, Warn did sent me out a new handle piece, so I'll keep using it for now, but just keep a better eye on the front end to make sure I'm locked in.

The rear axle yoke just broke off one of the tabs that holds the u-joint caps in place, so that was an easy fix with the welder.
View attachment 536404

The driveshaft is going to get a strap welde across the broken part:
View attachment 536403

I have a few spare driveshafts, so this one will be relegated to backup.

So, the only thing left is to repair my leaf springs. I talked to ORD and I'm going to have them replace all 4 of my main leafs, and that will have me back on the road.... Hopefully in time for FSI in a few weeks. I'll take it easy there (I know, I know, but this time for sure! )

Long term, I think it's time to link this thing. I'm way too light on shocks, and I'm obviously having trouble controlling the axles. Going to links and coilovers resolves both issues. I'm also too tall, and this would give me a good point to lower the truck overall as well.

I've still got the pigeonrat suspension to finish and the upcoming camaro project , so it's worth just getting BYT back to healthy for now, but it's time for upgrades for sure if I'm going to keep doing this kind of wheeling.

I just had this conversation with @hillbillywizard . I was telling him how one of my warm hubs keeps engaging on the highway and he goes “you’re running 35 spline shafts aren’t you”. He said the exact same thing…..it hits the plastic on the hub.