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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
ashman said:
Sure, if you stuck with the minimum amount of backspacing but if you flipped them you'd be looking for the maximum amount of the same measurement. I don't know what the total width of the rim is, but if it's less than 14" then 7" of backspacing 1 way would work out to less than 7" the the other direction.

right? :dunno:
Click to expand...

You've got it.... but that dropped valley area is pretty heavily offset from the wheel centerline. By my calcs, if you DID flip the hoop around you'd be able to set the wheel up between 2.25" and 2.625" of backspacing depending on where exactly you welded the wheel center to the flat section of the wheel hoop.

Not NEARLY enough backspacing for my project.

It would have a really cool "deep dish" look, but it would stick out of the fenders by a mile.... :doah:


-G
 
lol, yeah, I was just realizing you had all the numbers posted so I started calculating it too. If the minimum backspacing was smaller that might work, but with it being over 6" too I see that you'd indeed get the "poke" look. With your portals, that might be a funny pic to take lol!

Do you even stance bro? :haha:
 
ashman said:
lol, yeah, I was just realizing you had all the numbers posted so I started calculating it too. If the minimum backspacing was smaller that might work, but with it being over 6" too I see that you'd indeed get the "poke" look. With your portals, that might be a funny pic to take lol!

Do you even stance bro? :haha:
Click to expand...

On my daily driver, I'm more of a hellaflush type guy...... :haha:


-G
 
I just assumed that is the way you were going to do it regardless of whether the clamps followed the bed contour or not. Most vehicles can't do it that way, because once the cage is welded in the cab its stuck there, but since you don't have a roof it is more feasible, still a little tricky around the dash area but doable. It's debatable whether that's better or not because a fully welded in cage is potentially stronger, but it will probably still be plenty safe bolted in too, Zim did a similar thing with his. but used poly mounts between where the frame connects to the cage and the body.

Do you ever plan to make a soft top or just leave it open all the time?
 
I really didn't want to hard mount the body, but it was getting insanely complicated to keep it "floating" inside such a complex cage structure (engine and cab) as well as the extra challenges of how to create good upper strut mounts for the rear struts that connected to the cage but didn't end up compromised because of rubber or poly mounts somehow mixed in with part of it's structure.

My biggest concern for this build is what NorCal69 likes to call "Dumptruck Ride Quality"...... The ORIs will surely provide great compliance over bumps, but there is precious little left otherwise to deal with NVH in this truck and it's quite possible that it will be a punishingly LOUD vehicle to drive around on the street.

This is why I was trying to reserve space in my motormount design for a fluid-dampened mount instead of the hard rubber pucks I'm using now. If I don't somehow decouple the interior from engine and road vibrations, this whole thing could be pretty miserable to drive.... I have also thought quite a bit about swapping out the frame-side EMF joints on my links for a joint with a rubber liner to give me just a bit more softness there as well. That's obviously a pretty simple swap to do as long as I can find sources with the 1/1-4" threaded ends.

At some point (a long time from now) the truck will get a custom-fitted softtop. My buddy has a 2014 Rubicon with a really nice fitting softtop that I'll be studying for ideas. The Jeep guys have been doing softtop solutions for YEARS... so they have it down to a science now. Good zippers, easy on/off hardware, and no flapping at highway speeds. :waytogo:


-G
 
I was thinking a quick and easy way (for you) to create the flat plate shape you want could be to double layer the plate where the low flutes of the bed are. This would prevent debris from getting under there and also have a beefy flat top to weld the cage to. Then when you can do the same on the under side too.
Just drill a few holes in the filler plate and plug weld them under the top plate.

In other words High flute single layer, low flute double layer. :thinking:
 
I don't think you'll mind the noise, wind noise will probably be louder. I have the engine in my regal using solid mounts and poly body mounts, you can notice the difference but the carpet and sound deadener makes it pretty mild. You could always put some sound deadening material on the floor or use bed liner or lizard skin underneath or something. For this rig hard mounting makes sense.
 
Greg72 said:
ATTENTION KERT!!!!


I know you're subscribed to this thread, so I'll ask you if you can do a little "pet project" for me and contribute your expertise to the "MAW" build!! :bow:


I've been thinking of a way to make this myself, but I think the best results will come from someone with "real" machine tools....

As this project moves forward, I want to build a set of custom rollcage plates that are cut with a profile that follows the convoluted floor pattern in the rear of the truck.

The top of the cage plate will still be flat but the underside (where it touches the floor) will look more like this:

_____/-----------\_______/----------


ASCII art sucks but you get the idea. :D


The concept is to create a solid plate with 100% contact with the sheetmetal. I want to remove the voids to keep water and crud out from underneath the plated areas.

I can probably build something like this with a thin piece of 1/8" plate welded with a few heavily chamfered 1/4" plate strips. But it still wont have the perfect radiuses in the transitions from low-to-high spots.

I'm not sure if the convoluted metal varies from 1st Gen to the later models. I'm sure I could make up a dimensioned template for you to work from.

Any interest? :deal:


-G
Click to expand...


Send me something to go by and i'll see what I can do. A small chunk of sheet metal and a sketch with something indicating where the plate starts and stops side to side (starting in the high spot or low etc...)would probably be best but if you can measure the radiuses accurately, a drawing alone would do.
 
cybrfire said:
Send me something to go by and i'll see what I can do. A small chunk of sheet metal and a sketch with something indicating where the plate starts and stops side to side (starting in the high spot or low etc...)would probably be best but if you can measure the radiuses accurately, a drawing alone would do.
Click to expand...

Cool!

I'll work on that tomorrow when I'm in the shop... Should have something accurate to send you by Monday morning..... :waytogo:

-G
 
Doing a quick plaster cast of each of the locations where you want to put a cage flange would be a quick way to send an exact model of what you want. You can use any cheap molding clay to build the walls, but an oil-based clay would be best/easiest to work with. That would allow you to put the plates wherever you want, rather than having to have them moved left/right by one whole corrugated segment: Custom for the B, C + whatever other pillars.
 
Just to be clear, we are talking about a machined floor plate, probably starting with 1/2" thick steel and milling recesses in to the bottom of it to match the contour of the corrugated floor. Assuming recesses will be 1/4" deep, leaving 1/4" thick steel flat on the top. Radiused corners and some bolt holes. Might as well throw in a 1" stake pin. Not gona make a hill of beans difference on machine time.

Matching plate for underneath the floor.

The birth of the most expensive floor plate ever produced. Sound about right?:eek1:
 
cybrfire said:
Just to be clear, we are talking about a machined floor plate, probably starting with 1/2" thick steel and milling recesses in to the bottom of it to match the contour of the corrugated floor. Assuming recesses will be 1/4" deep, leaving 1/4" thick steel flat on the top. Radiused corners and some bolt holes. Might as well throw in a 1" stake pin. Not gona make a hill of beans difference on machine time.

Matching plate for underneath the floor.

The birth of the most expensive floor plate ever produced. Sound about right?:eek1:
Click to expand...


You got it! :)

-G
 
very true:rolleyes:

Once its figured out a CNC would make quick work of machined ones I guess :thinking: Lots of wasted steel in the process though:dunno: Be cool to see 'em though:popcorn:
 
I don't see why you can't just shoot some Great Stuff foam under those plates...:dunno:

It comes in yellow, red, white.....heck, if those aren't your colors, you could always get in there with a sharpie and paint the foam.

You could probably use it around the rear ORI's too, when you cut the holes in your bed for them to go through. Water tight, badass and one off. :waytogo:


Just here to help. :thumb:
 
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