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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
Did curling that tube in towards the engine a bit more present other issues I'm not seeing? I don't see enough effective air space for good heat shielding, but it's not in front of me in 3D either. I'm just concerned the exhaust is gonna sound great and your ORI's are gonna boil or something.
 
Greg72 said:
Well... The headers get JetHot coated at the end of the build, so we will just have to see if that does the trick.... If not, I will have to come up with some kind of thermal wrap, or a small metal heat shield of some kind... :dunno:

-G
Click to expand...

I was just gonna ask the same thing as rene. Hopefully the jet hot works.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Did curling that tube in towards the engine a bit more present other issues I'm not seeing? I don't see enough effective air space for good heat shielding, but it's not in front of me in 3D either. I'm just concerned the exhaust is gonna sound great and your ORI's are gonna boil or something.
Click to expand...

There is just such a small area where the primary passes close to the ORI that it never really occurred to me that I should worry about changing the routing. I don't know what the "rule of thumb" is for header clearances (either coated or uncoated). My gut feeling was that anything that's 1" away from the header is probably fine...

Realistically with the header design on #1 & #2 I could pretty easily take out the small horizontal tube at the very top, cut the spotwelds on the two curved segments on either side and rotate them toward the valve cover. Then swap a small curved piece in to connect them back together and it would make that whole upper shape just C-U-R-V-E perfectly around the strut.

The only downside might be the way it would encroach on the valve over and make it a little tougher to remove...or it could make spark plug access a bit tougher... Right now, despite how crazy the headers look, I can't get to all the header bolts and spark plugs pretty easily.


-G
 
Is there and inch of room Greg? It appears tighter than that in the pics. :dunno:
 
I wouldn't count on that being the case, I have jet hot on my regal headers and there is no way in h3ll I would touch them. If you have an inch of room I would just put some refelective heat shielding on that surface you want to protect.
 
Greg72 said:
More photos of the Driver's Side effort so far......

Cylinder #1 ended up being a mirror image duplicate of the passenger side (Cyl #2).... But after that, I had to make some changes to fit the steering shaft.

IMG_7185.jpg



As you can see in this one (Cyl #1, 3 & 5) the routing had to get a bit more creative to clear the steering... and I had HOPED that there would be a way to do each exhaust port above the steering shaft so that the header could be removed without disassembling the steering shaft.... but it looks like #7 will end up on the underside of the shaft which will basically trap it there.

IMG_7189.jpg



Here's a shot from the front showing the tiny amount of room I've got to work with to make everything fit... :yikes:

IMG_7193.jpg



And a parting shot of the engine compartment from a little further back to show both headers in a single photo...

IMG_7197.jpg



I stopped at that point so that I could call Flaming River directly for help. They gave me the following part numbers for the final column design:

FR2546DD = 3/4" x 30-spline DD (Steering Box) in Stainless
FR2515DD = 3/4" x 36-spline DD (Steering Column) in Stainless
FR1856 - 3/4" DD to 1" DD Stainless collapsible steering shaft 42" long (universal)

UPS confirmed that these were all delivered today, so I will be able to get them installed and remove my "fake" steering parts. I didn't really want to start rendering the exhaust in final form until I knew EXACTLY where the interferences would be.

Looks like I'll be able to start removing the green tape welds, and replacing them with TIG-tacked stuff over the weekend! :saweet:


-G
Click to expand...
On number 7, can you take off the "straight" stand off and put a 90 degree right off the header flange? I know on mine, all the tube goes over the steering shaft. If that is not possible, I have seen headers that have the flange cut and one tube slip fits into the collector.
 
2015.10.19 - UPDATE! - MOAR SHAFTED, MOAR BENDS...!!!

So I've been slow-walking the build on the driver's side header for the last few days as I waited for the Flaming River steering parts to arrive. I didn't want to commit to any exact tube placements until I had the steering installed so I knew precisely where my interferences would be.

The parts came just before the weekend.

IMG_7223.jpg



And after a lot of care measuring (and re-measuring) since I didn't feel like cutting the collapsible shaft too short everything was dropped into place.... :waytogo:

IMG_7232.jpg



At that point, I had a few concerns. The header passing so close to the ORI was already on my mind, but the location of the exhaust primaries to the new steering shaft just weren't looking all that good... so I decided to ditch my #1 primary design and will ultimately run that one down low across the framerail. The #3 is now and upswept tube that completely curls around #5... and as a side-effect it ends up a LOT further away from the ORI.... it's at LEAST an inch away now and I think the whole design is going to end up looking "cooler"

IMG_7254.jpg



Another shot of the crazy, corkscrew design of Cylinders #3 & #5...

IMG_7255.jpg



At the end of the night, I was here:

IMG_7264.jpg



I want to maintain the correct exhaust sequence of the exhaust primaries so that they fire in a counterclockwise pattern. But based on this new layout I think I might rotate the entire deal by 90* so that the #1 primary tube is on the outside (closer to the tire) instead of closest to the framerail. This seems to help me with the alignment of the other tubes as they snake-through the steering shaft and over the framerail...

Side View:

IMG_7257.jpg





-G
 
chevyfumes said:
What if I triple dog dared you?
Click to expand...

Can I wear my MIG gloves? ;)

Greg72 said:
2015.10.19 - UPDATE! - MOAR SHAFTED, MOAR BENDS...!!!

At the end of the night, I was here:

IMG_7264.jpg


-G
Click to expand...

Awesome, one step closer to driving with the steering wheel connected to the gearbox too. Good to see. :waytogo:

Also, I think the header is looking pretty trick. How close is it to the ORI in that pic? Are you sure it will clear with the passenger side drooped? Maybe there is more room than it appears since I can't see the depth.
 
folkenheath said:
Can I wear my MIG gloves? ;)



Awesome, one step closer to driving with the steering wheel connected to the gearbox too. Good to see. :waytogo:

Also, I think the header is looking pretty trick. How close is it to the ORI in that pic? Are you sure it will clear with the passenger side drooped? Maybe there is more room than it appears since I can't see the depth.
Click to expand...


Yep. I was thinking how much easier it will be to pull the truck out of the garage (and turn it around?) now that I almost have a working steering wheel!!!! :saweet: Sure beats wedging a 2x4 in the steering knuckle and trying to persuade the tires to initiate a turn THAT way!!! :haha:

The ORI is pretty far away now.... I'd guess more than 1" inch at least. It's hard to photograph it in a way that accurately shows the clearances. My expectation is that since the exhaust is very close to the upper mounting bolt of the strut, the effect of the axle articulating SHOULD be minimal, as most of the movement of the strut (swing) happens at the lower mount not the upper one? :thinking:


-G
 
BARRAZA said:
Have you ever wondered if you should get help for this :)
Click to expand...

Not really.....

Usually I read comments like that it causes me to realize that most people DON'T worry about stuff like that. Then I wonder why they don't and who in their right mind would let their exhaust pulses just smash together in some completely random and arbitrary way!!!

:haha:



-G
 
Greg72 said:
Not really.....

Usually I read comments like that it causes me to realize that most people DON'T worry about stuff like that. Then I wonder why they don't and who in their right mind would let their exhaust pulses just smash together in some completely random and arbitrary way!!!

:haha:



-G
Click to expand...

Awesome!

And I wound be "most people" never even crossed my mind.
Those pipes look crazy....it is so cool to look at! :waytogo: Man I sure hope it all works out good for you. What an effort! :bow:
 
Greg72 said:
2015.10.19 - UPDATE! - MOAR SHAFTED, MOAR BENDS...!!!

So I've been slow-walking the build on the driver's side header for the last few days as I waited for the Flaming River steering parts to arrive. I didn't want to commit to any exact tube placements until I had the steering installed so I knew precisely where my interferences would be.

The parts came just before the weekend.

IMG_7223.jpg



And after a lot of care measuring (and re-measuring) since I didn't feel like cutting the collapsible shaft too short everything was dropped into place.... :waytogo:

IMG_7232.jpg



At that point, I had a few concerns. The header passing so close to the ORI was already on my mind, but the location of the exhaust primaries to the new steering shaft just weren't looking all that good... so I decided to ditch my #1 primary design and will ultimately run that one down low across the framerail. The #3 is now and upswept tube that completely curls around #5... and as a side-effect it ends up a LOT further away from the ORI.... it's at LEAST an inch away now and I think the whole design is going to end up looking "cooler"

IMG_7254.jpg



Another shot of the crazy, corkscrew design of Cylinders #3 & #5...

IMG_7255.jpg



At the end of the night, I was here:

IMG_7264.jpg



I want to maintain the correct exhaust sequence of the exhaust primaries so that they fire in a counterclockwise pattern. But based on this new layout I think I might rotate the entire deal by 90* so that the #1 primary tube is on the outside (closer to the tire) instead of closest to the framerail. This seems to help me with the alignment of the other tubes as they snake-through the steering shaft and over the framerail...

Side View:

IMG_7257.jpg





-G
Click to expand...

Here I come again being a doubting Thomas, but I thought you wanted to be able to get to all the spark plugs with a ratchet? It doesn't look like you could get to number 5 spark plug. It also look like a spark plug boot burner too.
 
JDNobodi said:
Here I come again being a doubting Thomas, but I thought you wanted to be able to get to all the spark plugs with a ratchet? It doesn't look like you could get to number 5 spark plug. It also look like a spark plug boot burner too.
Click to expand...

JD,

You've got a good eye! :)

The #5 was definitely a challenge with the spark plug and the header flange bolts... When I brought the #3 past that area I kept the tubes for 3 &5 as close to each other as possible to preserve space around the block. It will be tighter than most of the others, but I can still get wrenches in there....


-G
 
Getting closer! :waytogo:

image.jpg1_6.jpg



I got #1, 3 & 5 into pretty good shape last night. It turns out that #1 is a little TOO direct of a shot to the collector (29" long instead of 36") so I might throw a little bit of a curve in it to add a few inches of length. Most of the tube work is within 3 - 4" of my ideal length so if I can get in that ballpark I'll be happy.


-G
 
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