Been a while since you've reported anything here. You doing anything or still messing w/ concrete?
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
As of a couple hours ago.....
Charlie put his mark of approval on the new cement apron project!
I've been logging a ton of hours getting the old cement removed, saw-cut, drilling for rebar.....removing a TON of sand base and replacing with hardpack and tearing out the lower portions of the door trim so that there would be working room to trowel the new concrete properly.
The pour was this morning and it's slowly drying out now. I'll do a little cleanup on the edge tonight when it firms up more and then let it fully cure for about 2 days.
Then it's a MASSIVE cleanup effort in the garage to get everything back into the right locations so that I can start back on the MAW build.
-G
Might as well build some more workspace/organization space too..
What the Hell? Did you cracked the concrete when your hard head fell on the floor?
Greg, does it bother you the way that it's called "saw-cutting" for some reason when its concrete?
It always sounds to me like they are actually cutting the saw, but what are they cutting the saw with, and what are they going to cut the concrete with after they cut the saw?
It always sounds to me like they are actually cutting the saw, but what are they cutting the saw with, and what are they going to cut the concrete with after they cut the saw?
I don't know about all that....but there was something oddly satisfying about looking at the freshly cut concrete and the way that the stones inside it were perfectly cut in half...
The cement is officially strong enough now that I can roll the truck over it. Pretty soon I will find out if the truck will still fit under the rollup door now that the cement sits about 4" higher than it used to!!!
-G
Happy birthday bump! 
2016.09.26 - UPDATE! - WELCOME TO A NEW SPONSOR - BORLA !!!
Yee-Haa!!! :
After going through a bunch of discussion and analysis of various muffler and exhaust options, I had pretty much decided that Borla was going to be the best option to preserve power while still keeping the noise levels as low as possible. I gave their Tech Line a call and went over a few final details and ended up getting their final recommendations for mufflers and resonators and the best way to package them for sound and power.
For the mufflers, we went with two of the Borla RaceLine XR-1 Multi-Core Oval (p/n/: #40575).... This is a reasonably small muffler size, with a straight-through internal design to insure high-flow. It also has 3 perforated "cores" to help absorb sound and get rid of a lot of the crackling and high-frequency noise... After that, we added a pair of the RaceLine XR-1 Sportsman Oval (p/n: #40944) which will be used as "resonators" further downstream in the exhaust. These are all full-stainless construction, so they will look great with all the other exhaust work I've been building... The icing on the cake, was that Borla was so excited about the project and the build photos that they offered to send it all to me at a hefty discount!
The first few items arrived over the weekend... the resonators are currently on backorder, so those will be coming in a couple of weeks.
The multicore mufflers look really cool and they are a LOT smaller than the FlowMaster that I was using for mock-up work. Here's the location where I intend to hide them (in the hollow torsion box area):
The 3" stainless showed up a while ago, and I got a new angle marking / cutting fixture for the 6" CLR Tubing. It was finally time to start cutting up expensive material and building the exhaust puzzle!
The biggest challenge was getting the exhaust out of the torsion box area and then back INSIDE the framerails again so that it could run to the rear quarterpanels using the more conventional path. There were some difficult angles and a bit of "threading the needle" clearance challenges, but this is how it all started to look.....once the remainder of the passenger floor was cut away:
From a slightly different angle to show the routing:
At this same time, it was important to think about the floor (which had just been cut out for the muffler fitment) and the fact that it held all the mounting points for the factory seat brackets. A new floor will be fitted, but the shape will be slightly different (more flat and simple) and there wouldn't be a way to attach the seat, so a new seat tube was bent/notched for the front seat brackets instead.
Everything on the passenger side exhaust was looking pretty good, and the angles and tubing lengths took a long time to get just right so it made sense to build a mirror-image set of parts for the driver's side while the parts were still easy to measure and steal dimensions from....
Fitment with stainless (and for TIG) is critical, but when you get it right and the joints are tight with no gaps... it's very satisfying to tack the stuff together and admire the final results!!!
It's been several weeks since I really had time to dedicate to the build.... and with only about 700 days remaining until Moab 2018, I'm going to need to stay focused and start logging some serious hours to keep this project on schedule.
-G
Yee-Haa!!! :
After going through a bunch of discussion and analysis of various muffler and exhaust options, I had pretty much decided that Borla was going to be the best option to preserve power while still keeping the noise levels as low as possible. I gave their Tech Line a call and went over a few final details and ended up getting their final recommendations for mufflers and resonators and the best way to package them for sound and power.
For the mufflers, we went with two of the Borla RaceLine XR-1 Multi-Core Oval (p/n/: #40575).... This is a reasonably small muffler size, with a straight-through internal design to insure high-flow. It also has 3 perforated "cores" to help absorb sound and get rid of a lot of the crackling and high-frequency noise... After that, we added a pair of the RaceLine XR-1 Sportsman Oval (p/n: #40944) which will be used as "resonators" further downstream in the exhaust. These are all full-stainless construction, so they will look great with all the other exhaust work I've been building... The icing on the cake, was that Borla was so excited about the project and the build photos that they offered to send it all to me at a hefty discount!
The first few items arrived over the weekend... the resonators are currently on backorder, so those will be coming in a couple of weeks.
The multicore mufflers look really cool and they are a LOT smaller than the FlowMaster that I was using for mock-up work. Here's the location where I intend to hide them (in the hollow torsion box area):
The 3" stainless showed up a while ago, and I got a new angle marking / cutting fixture for the 6" CLR Tubing. It was finally time to start cutting up expensive material and building the exhaust puzzle!
The biggest challenge was getting the exhaust out of the torsion box area and then back INSIDE the framerails again so that it could run to the rear quarterpanels using the more conventional path. There were some difficult angles and a bit of "threading the needle" clearance challenges, but this is how it all started to look.....once the remainder of the passenger floor was cut away:
From a slightly different angle to show the routing:
At this same time, it was important to think about the floor (which had just been cut out for the muffler fitment) and the fact that it held all the mounting points for the factory seat brackets. A new floor will be fitted, but the shape will be slightly different (more flat and simple) and there wouldn't be a way to attach the seat, so a new seat tube was bent/notched for the front seat brackets instead.
Everything on the passenger side exhaust was looking pretty good, and the angles and tubing lengths took a long time to get just right so it made sense to build a mirror-image set of parts for the driver's side while the parts were still easy to measure and steal dimensions from....
Fitment with stainless (and for TIG) is critical, but when you get it right and the joints are tight with no gaps... it's very satisfying to tack the stuff together and admire the final results!!!
It's been several weeks since I really had time to dedicate to the build.... and with only about 700 days remaining until Moab 2018, I'm going to need to stay focused and start logging some serious hours to keep this project on schedule.
-G
That is some beautiful concrete work there man! Kinda hard to see with those boxes in the way, but still looks good.
That is some beautiful concrete work there man! Kinda hard to see with those boxes in the way, but still looks good.
Garage door trim and siding is all new too. I did a small "reveal" on the trimwork to give it some extra visual appeal.... Fluffy Jarchow is always watching, so I've got to keep my construction skillz sharp!
-G
This still the plan? Gonna have to kick her into high gear.
Awesome about the Borla stuff though.
I have a bunch of questions but you've already asked to yourself so carry on kind sir
Fluffy Jarchow rules when it comes to explaining building stuff!
Awesome, Borla makes nice stuff. Hurry up.. 2018 is right around the corner
I never really thought about it that way... That doesn't sound that far away anymore,
Good to see some more progress Greg! Looking forward to more. Once you get that exhaust done you are going to be so itching to hear it run. 
Good to see some more progress Greg! Looking forward to more. Once you get that exhaust done you are going to be so itching to hear it run.
Indeed!!
Getting the complete exhaust system hung on the frame will allow me to confirm that my fuel tank design has adequate clearance, etc. So I can start on that one next....
Fuel lines, brake lines along the framerails.... some airlines (for lockers and CTIS) too....
I just want to do everything underneath that's kind of a hassle to reach with the body in the way, because at some point I'm going to drop that rear bedfloor back into place and it will make everything 100X more difficult.
-G
If I sent pics of my build to borla they would probably hang up on me and block my number. Nice work man!
NEED A LITTLE HELP HERE...... CK5'ers. 
I'm starting to craft the seat mounting system for the truck and would like to jettison the sloppy factory tracks which only have a limited amount of front-to-back adjustment anyway.
The slider setup that I like uses a simply front bar/paddle mechanism that's easy to reach and find... like this:
Obviously the way it attaches to the seat and floor is irrelevant, as I can modify it to work with the factory seats and new floor mounting system. Ideally I'd love it if I could also include a "flip forward" on the passenger seat... but that would be a function of the way I build the seat mount and track mounts to the floor.
By the way, here's a tad more progress on the seat mount. It's tricky toward the center because the transfercase is a LOT higher up into the cab than normal (to achieve the flat belly underneath) so the seat bracketry is necessarily going to need to be clever to fit in the remaining space.
SO..... based on that first image, where should I be looking for tracks like that? Jeeps? What models or year ranges? I don't know if this setup is even going to work, so I'd like to just find a cheap (used) track somewhere and start messing around with the concept.
-G
I'm starting to craft the seat mounting system for the truck and would like to jettison the sloppy factory tracks which only have a limited amount of front-to-back adjustment anyway.
The slider setup that I like uses a simply front bar/paddle mechanism that's easy to reach and find... like this:
Obviously the way it attaches to the seat and floor is irrelevant, as I can modify it to work with the factory seats and new floor mounting system. Ideally I'd love it if I could also include a "flip forward" on the passenger seat... but that would be a function of the way I build the seat mount and track mounts to the floor.
By the way, here's a tad more progress on the seat mount. It's tricky toward the center because the transfercase is a LOT higher up into the cab than normal (to achieve the flat belly underneath) so the seat bracketry is necessarily going to need to be clever to fit in the remaining space.
SO..... based on that first image, where should I be looking for tracks like that? Jeeps? What models or year ranges? I don't know if this setup is even going to work, so I'd like to just find a cheap (used) track somewhere and start messing around with the concept.
-G
