Ok, I will add them to my ever growing tooling list. Lol
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Ok, I will add them to my ever growing tooling list. Lol
Only looking at the pictures of a build thread (as you clearly did in this case) can lead to strange assumptions....
-G
Dammit.
I read all but that one little section haha.
I read all but that one little section haha.
The one I have used was not 90 ohm, but most aftermarket guages can be bought with any ohm reading, or some are programmable with any of them (like autometer elite). So I guess it depends on what gauges you plan to run. With aftermarket its easy, with stock guages you may need to see if you can find a 90 ohm tube type sender or not.
3-wire
They also have two wire...
2-wire
I found one in 90 ohm, but its a lot more money. Maybe there is a different brand. If you are getting aftermarket gauges I would just run the 240/33 ohm. If not, then maybe a traditional float style might be more economical, a better search would tell you.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-ks223-12-090/overview/
http://www.atlinc.com/levelsender.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-ks223-12-090/overview/
http://www.atlinc.com/levelsender.html
which work light did you go with? I bought one awhile back but it wasn't enough to make any difference and was more awkward to place than I had hoped.
Try this link:
http://a.co/2FOswqx
It's super small... like maybe 12" overall length. You may not like it for general task lighting, but for TIG it gets right next to the weld and doesn't block me from getting the torch in there.
$12. can't really go wrong.
-G
I have almost the same one on my beadroller. Ill have to try it out for welding.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Progress is good. Keep rolling.
2017.01.26 - UPDATE! - MORE TANK PARTS INSTALLED...
Rolling....!!
Just to clarify a bit more, here's how that tank "kickout" looks when installed under the rear framerail...
You can see that the entire profile is supported against the underside of the framerail, even as it gently sweeps upward toward the rear axle. It also allows for a very simple vertical strap to connect from the sides of the tank up to the framerail to hold everything in place.
The next step was to render those kickouts in 304SS. As usual, the first one took some time.... (it WAS made easier with the new wiring of the 20" grinder since I could easily start and grind whenever I wanted without blowing the 20A breaker!) and the second one was traced from the 1st so it went very fast.
Since the tank has a slight taper across the bottom (5*), the sidewalls of the tank are NOT at 90-degrees to the bottom. The rear is actually a 95* angle, and the forward 14"x12.5" plate needs to be at 85*. I put about 10 tacks on the rear plate and it was strong enough to gently "persuade" to the proper angle without breaking the tacks.
When the tank is actually set on the bench with some angled blocking underneath it, you can get a more accurate feel for how it will look when it's installed in the truck. Remember: The whole reason for the 5* taper is to follow the factory taper of the rear bedsides (between the fenderwell and the bumper). This keeps the tank 100% invisible when looking at the truck in a side-profile. Even the factory 20-gallon tank would "peek" out from under the rear fenders and it always looked a bit odd..... and of course, that's an area where you want to maximize ground clearance as much as possible!
That just about wrapped up the night. It might seem a bit slow, but I'm actually encouraged by the progress since stainless is quite a bit harder to cut and edge-finish than mild-steel.... so it's a bit of a learning process. It's only been two nights of moderate fabrication work, but already the new WEN air filtration system is making a huge difference in air quality. Take a look at this filter.....it was pure white just a few days ago!!!!
My lungs are happier already.
-G
Rolling....!!
Just to clarify a bit more, here's how that tank "kickout" looks when installed under the rear framerail...
You can see that the entire profile is supported against the underside of the framerail, even as it gently sweeps upward toward the rear axle. It also allows for a very simple vertical strap to connect from the sides of the tank up to the framerail to hold everything in place.
The next step was to render those kickouts in 304SS. As usual, the first one took some time.... (it WAS made easier with the new wiring of the 20" grinder since I could easily start and grind whenever I wanted without blowing the 20A breaker!) and the second one was traced from the 1st so it went very fast.
Since the tank has a slight taper across the bottom (5*), the sidewalls of the tank are NOT at 90-degrees to the bottom. The rear is actually a 95* angle, and the forward 14"x12.5" plate needs to be at 85*. I put about 10 tacks on the rear plate and it was strong enough to gently "persuade" to the proper angle without breaking the tacks.
When the tank is actually set on the bench with some angled blocking underneath it, you can get a more accurate feel for how it will look when it's installed in the truck. Remember: The whole reason for the 5* taper is to follow the factory taper of the rear bedsides (between the fenderwell and the bumper). This keeps the tank 100% invisible when looking at the truck in a side-profile. Even the factory 20-gallon tank would "peek" out from under the rear fenders and it always looked a bit odd..... and of course, that's an area where you want to maximize ground clearance as much as possible!
That just about wrapped up the night. It might seem a bit slow, but I'm actually encouraged by the progress since stainless is quite a bit harder to cut and edge-finish than mild-steel.... so it's a bit of a learning process. It's only been two nights of moderate fabrication work, but already the new WEN air filtration system is making a huge difference in air quality. Take a look at this filter.....it was pure white just a few days ago!!!!
My lungs are happier already.
-G
keep up the good work man!
2016.01.30 - UPDATE! - MORE TANK PROGRESS....
A few more hours in the shop on Sunday and a couple more side panels were cut, fit and tacked into place...
First side panel in the 45* degree section, loosely fitted:
Then tacked fully in place with tight gaps:
The duplicate panel was installed on the opposite side, and really starts to give it the appearance of a fuel tank!
The under-the-framerail "kickout" section starts to take shape. These won't be welded down until the internal baffles are designed and installed.... otherwise it will block access to the seams that need welding.
It's starting to get pretty urgent to identify the in-tank setup that will get used, the fuel sender (I like everything about that capacitive one that Heath posted, except the $250 pricetag!) and where the fuel filler neck will ultimately come into the tank. I'm giving serious consideration to doing a filler neck that is hidden behind the driver's side taillight lens. It cleans up the look of the bedside and also creates more room on the interior bedside wall for stereo amps, or ARB compressors, etc.... and ultimately might create an easier path for the fuel hose to reach the tank...
-G
A few more hours in the shop on Sunday and a couple more side panels were cut, fit and tacked into place...
First side panel in the 45* degree section, loosely fitted:
Then tacked fully in place with tight gaps:
The duplicate panel was installed on the opposite side, and really starts to give it the appearance of a fuel tank!
The under-the-framerail "kickout" section starts to take shape. These won't be welded down until the internal baffles are designed and installed.... otherwise it will block access to the seams that need welding.
It's starting to get pretty urgent to identify the in-tank setup that will get used, the fuel sender (I like everything about that capacitive one that Heath posted, except the $250 pricetag!) and where the fuel filler neck will ultimately come into the tank. I'm giving serious consideration to doing a filler neck that is hidden behind the driver's side taillight lens. It cleans up the look of the bedside and also creates more room on the interior bedside wall for stereo amps, or ARB compressors, etc.... and ultimately might create an easier path for the fuel hose to reach the tank...
-G
It won't look stock with out the fuel filler in the bedside.
Martin
Martin
Maybe I'll just mount a fake one there.
-G
Put a switch of some sorts in there... Battery, winch, etc.
Maybe that will be my Tesla plug-in port....
People will lose their sh!t when I'm parked in the "Electric Charging Only" spaces with the truck plugged in!!!
-G
That would be sweet
Not sure where your license plate will be compared to the tank height, but the 90's b-bodies hid them behind flip down plates. Always liked them.
I may have to cut a hole through the center of my rear crossmember to make that work, but I'll take another look at it tonight...
-G
fake filler neck is great spot for OBA hose connector. Friend has a pickup with dual tank doors then put a K5 tank in and added another factory door at the back of the bed so it was factory. Has his OBA air fittings in the factory doors on each side for easy access.
