Don't forget to pick up some Ryoken Green for your primer coat!!!
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/moeller-marine-zinc-chromate-spray-primer-79132.html
-G
CK5
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'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?
- Thread starter Dirsuper
- Start date
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- #onionclub
Don't forget to pick up some Ryoken Green for your primer coat!!!
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/moeller-marine-zinc-chromate-spray-primer-79132.html
-G
Stumbling through and learning is fun in my opinion too. It's the way I'm doing it anyway.
Got to watch out when the outlaws are over!
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
It's interesting to me that you guys recommend going with AAW kit because of the colors of wires and originality with all the mods you both are doing. Greg, your upgrading to TBI EFI and Ash did a LS swap. Also, many do the recommended headlight upgrade, often run electric radiator fans, etc.
Disruper will be staying much more stock then you both so I could see him having more of a reason to go with AAW kit. The only real "upgrade" I see to painless over AAW is switching from the glass tube fuse to the plastic blade style, which seem to be easier to install/remove and more readily available.
Are there other benefits, other than price, that would cause most to go one way or the other? I have a painless kit here in front of me and it sure looks nice, and instructions on colors, install, etc seem to also be very clear and easy to follow. I see looking at the painless instructions to be just as clear if not clearer then looking at the original colored diagrams that I've taken from some of Greg's posts. It even has some instruction on differences between stock and painless wire colors. As for how easily it can actually be installed, I don't really know, as it's just collecting dust for now. It was just too great a deal from a member here for me to pass up.
As for wire labeling the Painless kit has each wire label printed all the way down the wire, so no matter where you cut it, it will still be labeled. Seems to help with diagnosing which wire is which even without a manual in front of you.
-Jacob
Disruper will be staying much more stock then you both so I could see him having more of a reason to go with AAW kit. The only real "upgrade" I see to painless over AAW is switching from the glass tube fuse to the plastic blade style, which seem to be easier to install/remove and more readily available.
Are there other benefits, other than price, that would cause most to go one way or the other? I have a painless kit here in front of me and it sure looks nice, and instructions on colors, install, etc seem to also be very clear and easy to follow. I see looking at the painless instructions to be just as clear if not clearer then looking at the original colored diagrams that I've taken from some of Greg's posts. It even has some instruction on differences between stock and painless wire colors. As for how easily it can actually be installed, I don't really know, as it's just collecting dust for now. It was just too great a deal from a member here for me to pass up.
As for wire labeling the Painless kit has each wire label printed all the way down the wire, so no matter where you cut it, it will still be labeled. Seems to help with diagnosing which wire is which even without a manual in front of you.
-Jacob
This was my thought, too (though I had no experience to back it up). If your new wiring harness comes with detailed diagrams & schematics, why would you care what the stock colors were? It's not likely that you'll ever run into another mechanic that has the 1972 wiring diagram memorized well enough to be confused by a change of coloring. I know that California does have a lot more older cars than the rust belt does, but I would be thrilled just to see another 1972 K5 of any type or condition. I don't know that I'll ever meet someone who has the colors memorized. And if I ever did, I'm certain such a mechanic would be skilled enough to read a schematic. So why would I bother keeping the stock color scheme? And why would I go to all the work of creating a stock harness and then going out and creating a second harness just for the addons? That seems more confusing that simply building one good harness that meets all needs.
Going one step further...If each wire is individually labeled, will you ever even need a diagram at all?
Like I said originally....... I'd be surprised if anyone else out there agreed with me on keeping the wiring "stock".
I'm not knocking anyone who thinks Painless Kits are great. It's a personal preference thing for sure... but for me, there is something nice about having an original harness and original colors. I already know what the colors are supposed to be so troubleshooting is a lot faster, and when someone on the 1st Gen forum has questions about an electrical issue my advice is always based on STOCK wiring..... I NEVER assume that they are using a Painless Kit; if they did there's really not much I can do to help them....
The trucks are pretty simple from a wiring perspective, and even the OEM harness managed to survive in most truck for almost 50 years with maybe a touch of corrosion around the glass fuse holders. Going with an aftermarket wiring harness in a 1st Gen just seems like a solution to a problem that was never really there.
The worst enemy for ANY wiring harness are the "Previous Owners" who slice, chop and hack them to smithereens in an effort to "improve or repair" them.
-G
I'm not knocking anyone who thinks Painless Kits are great. It's a personal preference thing for sure... but for me, there is something nice about having an original harness and original colors. I already know what the colors are supposed to be so troubleshooting is a lot faster, and when someone on the 1st Gen forum has questions about an electrical issue my advice is always based on STOCK wiring..... I NEVER assume that they are using a Painless Kit; if they did there's really not much I can do to help them....
The trucks are pretty simple from a wiring perspective, and even the OEM harness managed to survive in most truck for almost 50 years with maybe a touch of corrosion around the glass fuse holders. Going with an aftermarket wiring harness in a 1st Gen just seems like a solution to a problem that was never really there.
The worst enemy for ANY wiring harness are the "Previous Owners" who slice, chop and hack them to smithereens in an effort to "improve or repair" them.
-G
Torsion boxes require you to unbolt the rear access cover, then carefully cut the factory perimeter welds (inner and outer) as well as the ones that tie it into the front footwell... Careful prying will help to break each weld joint. Jam a screwdriver in there to keep pressure on the next weld joint and keep working your way down the line.
SPOILER ALERT!
When you get the torsion box off you will find rust in the front cab support.
About 10 years ago we had a thread in the 1St Gen forum called "THE CANCER SUPPORT THREAD"... You can probably still find it, though I'm sure all the photo links are broken now. It was basically a support group for all the guys who bought "rust free" 1St Gens and then started digging into the rocker and footwell areas and realized that they had some pretty severe rust damage to repair.
It's a big, rusty onion.... Or an elephant that you need to eat one-bite-at-a-time (chose your favorite analogy)... The 1St Gen guys have all been there, so when it comes time to confront your "issues" there's a good group of people to help you though it.
-G
@Greg72
If you click on the (insert) text icon just to the right of the filmstrip icon and choose "Spoiler" it's a lot cooler! lol
When you get the torsion box off you will find rust in the front cab support. . More on the passenger side, but both sides will need attention.
About 10 years ago we had a thread in the 1St Gen forum called "THE CANCER SUPPORT THREAD"... You can probably still find it, though I'm sure all the photo links are broken now. It was basically a support group for all the guys who bought "rust free" 1St Gens and then started digging into the rocker and footwell areas and realized that they had some pretty severe rust damage to repair.
It's a big, rusty onion.... Or an elephant that you need to eat one-bite-at-a-time (chose your favorite analogy)... The 1St Gen guys have all been there, so when it comes time to confront your "issues" there's a good group of people to help you though it.
. More on the passenger side, but both sides will need attention.About 10 years ago we had a thread in the 1St Gen forum called "THE CANCER SUPPORT THREAD"... You can probably still find it, though I'm sure all the photo links are broken now. It was basically a support group for all the guys who bought "rust free" 1St Gens and then started digging into the rocker and footwell areas and realized that they had some pretty severe rust damage to repair.
It's a big, rusty onion.... Or an elephant that you need to eat one-bite-at-a-time (chose your favorite analogy)... The 1St Gen guys have all been there, so when it comes time to confront your "issues" there's a good group of people to help you though it.
For clarity, I wasn't actually recommending any particular aftermarket harness. I used the original and a stock LS harness and connected them together. I was trying to make the point that stock colors are handy, especially if you aren't the only one that will be looking at it.
Intersting
Excellent discussion - appreciate/tracking all. This e-brake cable (below) is frozen (nuts on end), hard part to find, deal with it, or just cut it and get a new one. So much for reusing brake lines - 2 fittings stripped. Oh, and if you take out the main gas line (aluminum) running down the frame - it's full of gas. Friggin shop smells like a gas station.
If you really want to save it.... Wire wheel those threads, or wire brush... Shoot with Kroil (you bought Kroil, right?!) and let it soak.... It will eventually loosen up. A little heat on those nuts could help too.
My other advice is: don't throw away anything until the build is complete. That cable might not get reused, but it makes an awfully good template for making up a new one, or finding one that is a good match. If you throw it away... You'll have no way of knowing if the next one is a 100% match or a poor replica.
-G
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
If it helps any, I used a painless kit in mine and all the colors matched the original for the circuits that were the same. The harness does include some extras and those were obviously not the same. I hate the glass fuses because they are so hard to remove without a tool.
Once Greg has to remove that fuse for the eleventy-billionth time while he's tuning and resetting his fuel injection controller, he'll remember this thread and wish he had the blade fuses.
Once Greg has to remove that fuse for the eleventy-billionth time while he's tuning and resetting his fuel injection controller, he'll remember this thread and wish he had the blade fuses.
Bigblue7-2
1/2 ton status
Since I have the back of my truck off I can see all fasteners, hangers, crazy hitch set UPS that the PO had I give a spritz of kroil every once and a while. When I get tired of rust repair I can take all these things off and hopefully don't have to cut to many! Let it soak
If it helps any, I used a painless kit in mine and all the colors matched the original for the circuits that were the same. The harness does include some extras and those were obviously not the same. I hate the glass fuses because they are so hard to remove without a tool.
Once Greg has to remove that fuse for the eleventy-billionth time while he's tuning and resetting his fuel injection controller, he'll remember this thread and wish he had the blade fuses.
I "AM" a TOOL.... shouldn't be an issue!
-G
Kroil? Never heard of it. I use PB Blaster. Before I left for work I put a rag under that piece and doused it in PB. Funny thing is that before I posted I tried to cut it with tin shears.....I am glad the cable just laughed at those shears!
I can't believe how many freakin little brackets and stuff there are on the frame. Two hours of work last night and it does not look like I accomplished anything. Last night the wife informed me that her parents will be here for an ENTIRE WEEK. Needless to say, I will get a lot done in the shop. I need to get the gas tank out....but, of course, it is FULL of gas because when this started, I was just going to replace the intake manifold gasket. I'm a bit past that now! I bought a little hand pump so I'll pump it into those oil disposal jugs our garbage service provides and burn it a little at a time in my fire pit Saturday night since we are having a party anyway.
I can't believe how many freakin little brackets and stuff there are on the frame. Two hours of work last night and it does not look like I accomplished anything. Last night the wife informed me that her parents will be here for an ENTIRE WEEK. Needless to say, I will get a lot done in the shop. I need to get the gas tank out....but, of course, it is FULL of gas because when this started, I was just going to replace the intake manifold gasket. I'm a bit past that now! I bought a little hand pump so I'll pump it into those oil disposal jugs our garbage service provides and burn it a little at a time in my fire pit Saturday night since we are having a party anyway.
Kroil is the serious big-brother of PB Blaster...
It works quite a bit better, buy a can and you'll see.
I've used both, and now I don't bother with PB Blaster anymore.
-G
It works quite a bit better, buy a can and you'll see.
I've used both, and now I don't bother with PB Blaster anymore.
-G
Bigblue7-2
1/2 ton status
Kroil is the serious big-brother of PB Blaster...
It works quite a bit better, buy a can and you'll see.
I've used both, and now I don't bother with PB Blaster anymore.
-G
I agree!! I also think the smell is much more pleasant with kroil
Funny you guys say that, I had a meeting first thing and someone says, "What is that smell." I was in my work clothes (business attire) when I sprayed that stuff this morning. Whatever, I have 9 working days left here. Which brings me to my latest question - Rear Springs.
Looking at the existing mess, I really don't want to put ~$1500 in suspension and keep the stock springs. From Greg's advice, I understand 80's K5 springs would be ideal. So, I was thinking of just ordering these (new stock springs for 73-91 Blazer). Any thoughts. I am thinking use these stock springs and the 4" shackle flip (and zero rate) in the back.
DAYTON 22402XL
Front; 4WD; 4WD, Single Full Taper Extra Leaf, 2-3/4" Wide, 23-1/8" X 23-3/4", 7/16" Pack Thickness, 1-1/8" Free Arch, 500lb Rated Load
$71.79
http://www.rockauto.com/
Looking at the existing mess, I really don't want to put ~$1500 in suspension and keep the stock springs. From Greg's advice, I understand 80's K5 springs would be ideal. So, I was thinking of just ordering these (new stock springs for 73-91 Blazer). Any thoughts. I am thinking use these stock springs and the 4" shackle flip (and zero rate) in the back.
DAYTON 22402XL
Front; 4WD; 4WD, Single Full Taper Extra Leaf, 2-3/4" Wide, 23-1/8" X 23-3/4", 7/16" Pack Thickness, 1-1/8" Free Arch, 500lb Rated Load
$71.79
http://www.rockauto.com/
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Only issue I see is in the descrption those are for the Front.
-Jacob
-Jacob
Missed that - thanks! Figures, the rear are twice the price......
DAYTON 22403
Rear; 5/1 = 6 Leaf, 2-1/4" Pack Thickness, 2350lb Per Spring Rating, 6-3/4" Free Arch
$142.89
DAYTON 22403
Rear; 5/1 = 6 Leaf, 2-1/4" Pack Thickness, 2350lb Per Spring Rating, 6-3/4" Free Arch
$142.89
What are you planning on doing for the front suspension?
