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'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?

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Just measured it, 4 3/4" difference from ground to top of spring (at bolt).
 
Won the race against the rain! First one is this morning. Got everything cleaned, painted, and ready to start going back where it belongs.

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Left a few men behind. I had them behind shop (sun), and just remembered them. I'm proud of my clever way of painting the new u-bolts! Simple things amaze me....

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Uhm......these U-bolts look way too long. And no, that's not the 'long one.' Three are that size, one is bigger, which makes sense, but that seems like a ridiculous amount of extra thread. Am I supposed to trim them?

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yup.. they're pretty much always like that, depending on how thick the leaf pack is, etc.... some people like to double nut them... I usually cut them long enough to double nut em, than just run singles..... absolutely make sure you retorque those after a shakedown run...
 
Make sure you cut them off after you have the nut on. I usually run a die on them, and then cut them off and back the die off.

Martin
 
Thanks guys. I was searching ORDs website and the internet in general trying to find pics.......while doing so I learned that they sent me new nuts with the U-bolts. Dug through the stuff from them and there they are! So all of that time I spent cleaning the old nuts and washers with the angle grinder and pliers - waste......but, then you throw out the double nut idea - score all the way around. Appreciate it! Back to it.........
 
Thanks, yeah, I almost forgot them - but they are on there now. I've gotta run to Napa and get a tap and die set, some of these threads are bit off......
 
Power went out (bad storm, really windy). Anyway, working by the little bit of daylight, I am wondering - should either of those balljoint nuts have washers? There were none when I pulled it apart, but it seems weird....when I tighten the nuts the steering arm thing gets harder to turn.

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I guess the stock front springs are flat? or have those "flattened"?
 
It will get a little harder to turn, but you should still be able to turn the knuckle. And I've seen ball joints with and without washers, if they didn't come with them I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Appreciate it Cili. On the way home from work I picked up a 1 3/8" socket (actually I had to buy a set, but it was HF, so whatever). Tonight I torqued the bottom one to 80, and the top to 100, per the Spicer manual. That knuckle is very hard to move. I had to use a lot of force to move it at all. Does that sound odd to anyone. I can still turn them, but we're talking some pretty serious effort to get them to move.

Oh, and a note for anyone else doing this for the first time......in the Spicer manual it says to tighten the top nut first (to pull the studs of the bottom socket into the tapered hole of the yoke). Yeah, you gotta do it in that order. Before I read, I was turning, and turning......trying different ratchets.......finally I realized the little slit on the top was turned, which got me paying attention....which got me to RTFM! Tighten top, torque bottom, torque top - and that knuckle is TIGHT to turn when you are done.
 
Ummmm something tells me the cotter pin won't really serve as much of a purpose there.......:dunno:
 
Yup - 'Switching to washers!' Unless someone can point out what I did wrong, I think I've gotta washer up.
 
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