Sub'd!
I hope to do a similar swap one day so I'll be watching very closely. Plus, Bart is just plain cool.
I hope to do a similar swap one day so I'll be watching very closely. Plus, Bart is just plain cool.
CK5
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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
Suuhweeeeeet!!!!
As you know with any project there will be unforeseen issues that will come about. One thing that you will find is that the dodge ac compressor will hit the frame on the right side. I made a set of accessory brackets on a water jet ( and saved my files so I can make more for you if you would like) that mount a sanden compressor above the frame and uses the gm alternator so none of the wiring needs to be switched over.
If you run into any issues or have any questions, don't be shy and feel free to shoot me a pm.
As you know with any project there will be unforeseen issues that will come about. One thing that you will find is that the dodge ac compressor will hit the frame on the right side. I made a set of accessory brackets on a water jet ( and saved my files so I can make more for you if you would like) that mount a sanden compressor above the frame and uses the gm alternator so none of the wiring needs to be switched over.
If you run into any issues or have any questions, don't be shy and feel free to shoot me a pm.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
It's not good enough. That's the problem. Those recommendations of mine are for "runs good", not "go fast".
I suppose I didn't catch what year the donor was. That's sort of important. If its not a ppump discard the mention of the fuel plate. You cnturn the fuel pin the a VE as its eccentric. That is just a touch more fuel. Nothing thatll hurt you. But either way, absolutely swap up the governor springs and bump the timing up. Leaving it stock as in OEM stock is, in a word, dumb. Timing will puta couple MPG in the bank, that's proven. Governor will put drivability back on your side.
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It's a 98!
There is hardly any wiring to get a 6bt going. Hell I test fire mine with with only the starter hooked and manually pulling up the fuel shut off.
Now wiring the electronic controlled transmission is a different story.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
sweet eff all to wiring those transmissions.
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
I bumped the timing on my ve pump ( p pump is the same principal).
The governor spring lets the engine rev higher before it cuts fuel.
I buried the full fuel screw ( same results as a 10 plate)
These mods only cost a couple hundred bucks and don't take much time to do yourself and make the engine much more driveable without sacrificing mileage.
If you have 600 ft lbs as your target you can make that by accident....
The governor spring lets the engine rev higher before it cuts fuel.
I buried the full fuel screw ( same results as a 10 plate)
These mods only cost a couple hundred bucks and don't take much time to do yourself and make the engine much more driveable without sacrificing mileage.
If you have 600 ft lbs as your target you can make that by accident....
I am certainly not as knowledgeable as Luke on these Dave.
But if you concentrate on less expensive mods. Ones that help driveability and milage like he was talking about. You will get a nice little power bump but it won't really affect much else. There is so much power available to these engines you could spend a ton of money rebuilding it.
The trans you will have to look up some diesel site stuff I know a spensive torque converter will be in the cards at a minimum
But if you concentrate on less expensive mods. Ones that help driveability and milage like he was talking about. You will get a nice little power bump but it won't really affect much else. There is so much power available to these engines you could spend a ton of money rebuilding it.
The trans you will have to look up some diesel site stuff I know a spensive torque converter will be in the cards at a minimum
Excited to see the cummins swap. My dad has a 88 R30 SRW that I want to swap a 6bt into some day
I think the cool factor keeps going up...
Yes definitely interested in those brackets, your thread is one of a few Cummins swap threads I've delved into!
and I'm sure I'll have some hurdles in this project too.
I don't need go fast, I need grunt to pull the GCWR of 18-20K.
Which also makes me think what do I need to do with the driveshaft...just swap to the Dodge shaft and have it lengthened?
Sweet eff, like PITA to deal with or easy?
I can make an accident happen!
I figured I would head down that road probably if I'm pumping the engine up some..."might as well" right?
I hope I can have the eingine and trans swapped in by late Nov., then all the details will pick away at them as time and temps allow.... it will sit in the garage for the winter....I can't get that long bastard in my shop (where there is heat), so it will have to wait til spring to get some more love. I have a ton of stuff to do to the Maiden over the winter to keep me busy too.
Might as well, well at least you know how expensive that phrase is 
for real, I can't afford another Maiden build right now and expect to make BB14 with it either.
I will need to sell my 99 to complete this deal in the end, but think I need to hang onto it until the CC is running again, just to have it available if needed.
I will need to sell my 99 to complete this deal in the end, but think I need to hang onto it until the CC is running again, just to have it available if needed.
Nice thing about that is that you know the money will come in. When I know money is coming in I don't mind paying a couple months interest on a credit card. If you are careful you can get a zero interest one and then just make sure its not more than you can afford.
But yah I would keep the 99 till I got Bart running too
any questions with the swap feel free to ask!
I have and will, thanks for hangin out, I'll be looking for answers and advice!
A couple that would be nice to know:
1) Does the 2wd crossmember have enough clearance for the oil pan/engine to sit in there.
2) Will the turbo and associated piping interfere with the existing stock A/C evaporator?
3) The 98 has a 47RE trans not the RH right?...assuming that is the case the RE has more wiring issues to deal with (not my strong suit) I'm guessing I need to swap the trans harness and computer for it into the 76CC...any shortcuts on that?
A couple that would be nice to know:
1) Does the 2wd crossmember have enough clearance for the oil pan/engine to sit in there.
2) Will the turbo and associated piping interfere with the existing stock A/C evaporator?
3) The 98 has a 47RE trans not the RH right?...assuming that is the case the RE has more wiring issues to deal with (not my strong suit) I'm guessing I need to swap the trans harness and computer for it into the 76CC...any shortcuts on that?
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
I'm pretty sure the 2wd cross member will fit the oil pan. I have seen the 2wd motor mount kits at www.autoworldmt.com or www.coalrollerconversions.com
The downpipe should fit with the evaporator left in place. You should probably wrap the downpipe because it will be a very tight fit. When it does come time to run exhaust you might want to use an 89-93 down pipe. I used Diamond Eye Exhaust's first gen Dodge 4" exhaust kit on my truck and it fit very well with almost no mods.
The downpipe should fit with the evaporator left in place. You should probably wrap the downpipe because it will be a very tight fit. When it does come time to run exhaust you might want to use an 89-93 down pipe. I used Diamond Eye Exhaust's first gen Dodge 4" exhaust kit on my truck and it fit very well with almost no mods.
I think its a good choice Dave. There is a factor here that is hard to quantify in MPG, HP, or lbs./ft.
Has more to do with the RPM range the BBC and 6BT get their work done. When you feel like you're floggin' the BBC to get the job done, it causes driver fatigue.
Has more to do with the RPM range the BBC and 6BT get their work done. When you feel like you're floggin' the BBC to get the job done, it causes driver fatigue.
you can slide it in to a comfortable working distance and build a temporary osb and insulation bump out around datazz for the winter. seen it done a bunch (lots of the old garages around here are only 18-20 deep
) and it wont be more than $250-300. keeps you warm inside and is easily bon fire fodder when your done
just gotta remember you don't need 16" on center and all that for temporary walls. 4' on center will do fine
Awesome tips...thanks RSMM!
Agreed Kert, especially when towing...the BBC ran great at 75 w/ no load, but mileage suffered for it...I believe Eric figured it to be about 3500rpm at that speed....running a Cummins at 16-1800 @ 70 should be a sweet spot!
you can slide it in to a comfortable working distance and build a temporary osb and insulation bump out around datazz for the winter. seen it done a bunch (lots of the old garages around here are only 18-20 deep
I have done that too Rick, I will keep it in mind, or possible heat one stall of my attached garage...the plan for now is to work on it in the attached garage (24' of working length) until it gets cold enough to me to say fock it time for heat...at that time the Maiden will be in the shop (20' of working length) and I have a list of things to get done to it before next spring, at that time I could pick up on the CC again.
another question or two...
1) the fuel pin....explaination of exactly what it does and what it takes to make the mod..
In my mind I assume it controls the amount of fuel through the pump?
2) the governor spring...Is this in the injector pump...if so I've read not to mess with an injector pump unless you have the right tools and know how to do it....I have neither! Where is this spring and what does the mod involve?
3) #10 plate...same questions as previously mentioned.
1) the fuel pin....explaination of exactly what it does and what it takes to make the mod..
In my mind I assume it controls the amount of fuel through the pump?
2) the governor spring...Is this in the injector pump...if so I've read not to mess with an injector pump unless you have the right tools and know how to do it....I have neither! Where is this spring and what does the mod involve?
3) #10 plate...same questions as previously mentioned.
