CK5
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The alt. ya you can swap it no problem. You need the PCM still to run the tranny though so you can't get rid of it completely.
 
I heard the early pre 96 transmission valve body can be swapped, so the only thing be worried about is the lock up converter.
 
thanks for the input guys....fuel heater...DELETE!
 
Dave, maybe you answered this before but why'd you decide to go with the Dodge transmission and not a GM of some kind?
 
Glenn I considered a built 4L80E, but then I would have to acquire an expensive adapter for it to mate with the Cummins, get a trans computer or controller of somekind, etc, etc....the 98 Dodge came as a complete package and it all works. I talked with Greg Ducato (he is a trans specialist) about which route to go, in his opinion I would be just as good going with the 47RE and Dodge computer, and doing some of his suggested upgrades with a single or double disc convertor, as I would switching over to GM stuff. The Cummins has the equipment on it to operate the 47RE now as well.
I know I will upgrade the 47RE for the extra torque I'm planning on, but for now I will get it in the truck and driving before doing any trans upgrades. (hopefully those will happen over the winter months).
 
Hope you can hear the starter over the key switch. Sound doesn't transfer well in the video. But mines done it almost daily now.

Bogus. Won't let me upload the video clip.



Anyways here's my emergency starter tool

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431914154.875854.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431914154.875854.jpg
 
geez Luke, I got a decent drivers front fender, you can have it if you can get it there!

DSCN0674 (1024x576).jpg
 
figured it might be!
It would probably cost prohibitive getting it up to ya anyway.
I've tried selling it locally for $75, but didnt get any solid bites on it...I'd gladly pay $75 for a rock solid factory fender!
 
Maybe, I don't know if the parts I going to ask for would work. The rear trailer plug, cup holder, and the pain in the ass, the vacuum lines for the HVAC. That last one you pull the dash out to pull the HVAC out.
 
The plug that goes into the trailer plug look this on my truck. I know the later model trucks, the connector plug right into the trailer plug without any pigtail.

2015-05-18 06.10.58.jpg
 
Its all pretty buried right now JD, but I hope to be getting into that stuff later summer...I dont' have any cupholders as I sold the seats/console to the guy that was holding the truck.
 
you sold the cupholder in the dash?

Ok Ill take a look but seems like I tore the worn dash out but don't remember what I did with it after that

I got to spend some time with Pop today
An early fathers day as I'm working next weekend
We messed with some parts assembly and timing the injection pump

image.jpg
 
Cant get that pic to turn 90*???

Here's another

image.jpg
 
thanks Rob!


Looks nice.

Thanks Luke
So if I recall you suggested 18* for my application?
I'm using the plunger lift measurement for stting the timing, but I'm getting up to 10mm of lift measuring it that way, what am I missing here?
I have confirmed the crank/cam timing by verifying valve positions while turning the engine clockwise from the front and the marks on the gears are matched up and the timing pin seats into the back of the cam gear.
The injector pump timing I have confirmed with the tab in the opening matching up with the pin slot when pushed in the hole thru the 2 bolt cover on the pump.
 

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